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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    The valves should start to open at 5800, fully open at 6200. If you open then at low RPM's the engine will seem to lose power. Did you try to run it at WOT before opening the valves? What RPM will it achieve with the valves closed?
    Im hesitant to open it wot as the throttle does hang. Acts fine in the water but out of the water it has this issue. I think it might be my throttle shafts leaking air. Not sure how I could fix that. I’m sure it will redline


  2. #12
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    You cannot test the PV's at part throttle. It must be at WOT, or at least 5800 RPM. If you have a problem with the carbs rebuild them, if you have leaking shafts, etc, you can send them to JetSkiSolutions and they can take care of it. JetSkiSolutions.com

  3. #13
    I am pushing it wot in the water but it won’t budge past 5k, not even a little. Jetskisolutions wants $600+ so that ain’t happening. I’m gonna pick up a used set that look decent when I get back from vacation. They are from an 01-04 xlt800. Should fit my 2000 xl800 right?

  4. #14
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    Yep, those will fit your ski. You can buy new throttle shaft bushings for the I body carb...I think Atlantic Jet Sports sells them.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    Yep, those will fit your ski. You can buy new throttle shaft bushings for the I body carb...I think Atlantic Jet Sports sells them.
    I looked on their site and there’s the throttle shaft rebuild for a 44 carb but not a 44i. Are they the same for both carbs? I know the base gaskets are not the same since I already made that mistake from their website.
    I also just noticed that the Mikuni carb rebuild from them comes with a 95g spring which I used in the gp800 and that carb had no issues. I believe I am running a 115 g spring in the current ski I’m trying to fix. Maybe that’s also not helping?

  6. #16
    The spring strengths aren't the same even though the color matches. Reusing the oem springs is the best thing to do.

  7. #17
    Just bought a used carb. Cleaned and rebuilt it tonight with all stock parts besides the 95gram spring. Got a new base plate that goes between the carb and reeds as mine was a bit pitted. Just waiting on gaskets to arrive and accelerator pump diaphragm. This better work now as I won’t know what else to do.

  8. #18
    Took forever to get the carbs primed. Had to push air into the tank and suck on the return line but after an hour of cranking i got it going. No more throttle hang at the moment. I have not got to test it further but so far so good. Hoping to take it out tomorrow.

  9. #19
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zulu989 View Post
    Took forever to get the carbs primed. Had to push air into the tank and suck on the return line but after an hour of cranking i got it going.

    … Hoping to take it out tomorrow.
    Are you sure the fuel pump (and related) is working properly? It sounds like it is barely able to move fuel. Even with totally dry fuel hoses a good fuel pump should not take anywhere near an hour of cranking to get fuel into the carbs.

    Needing positive air pressure in the tank and applying return line suction just to get fuel primed through the system does not sound right.

    If the fuel pump itself really is good then perhaps there is air leaking into the fuel feed somewhere. The fuel system from the tank is under mild suction from the fuel pump (if the fuel pump really is working properly) so air leaks at fuel hose connections or the fuel selector valve (or anywhere else between liquid fuel inside the tank and the fuel pump) will diminish the actual fuel flow, pumping air rather than drawing fuel.

    Carb engines are not my main thing but something sounds not-quite-right.

    My experience has been that PWC carb engines really do not like fuel systems that are not 100% good. Lean burn piston damage can happen quickly, even if the engine seems to be running ‘fairly good’ (right up until the moment it burns through the piston).

  10. #20
    An hour was a bit of exaggeration but it was quite awhile. Not long enough to drain the battery but they are known to be hard to prime. The accelerator pump was empty due to changing the diaphragm so I couldn’t pump fuel that way into the carbs. When I pressurize the system I can only hear air escape out the fuel cap and no where else. I have all the hoses zip tied and all checked for holes. Once I got it started it had no issue running. I can pressurize it again and block the fuel cap and see if it holds pressure.

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