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  1. #1
    Myself's Avatar
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    Yamaha VX 1100 cruiser, no spark, no start

    Just wanted to pick some other brains. Customer brought in his '07 VX Cruiser (108 hrs) for no crank. He had already replaced the starter solenoid and battery. I double checked voltage and the solenoid. I could bump power to the solenoid and it turned over fine. OK.....seen this a few times.....bad security module right? So, I jumpered out the ground from the module to the fuse panel, everything seemed normal cranked over great but won't start...???? So, I completely bypassed the security module.....still no start....verified no spark. I hooked up my Candoo and tried to activate coils and injectors...All good..??? So, if I can activate all the coils and injectors then the wiring can't possibly have any breaks in it or corroded/bad pins. So, what else could cause this? Possible the cam sensor went bad?


    ........aaannnd GO!


  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
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    Nobody has any ideas? I'll work on it a bit sometime this week. Probably going to check the cam sensor and the throttle control first.

  3. #3
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I'd be looking at the trigger coil, the candoo directly address the cdi, the engine is not looking for the trigger coil output

    I wasn't aware that the security module was that easy to bypass, but I'll revisit that with you when the opportunity arises to implement that strategy

  4. #4
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    OK, just checked out trigger. Reading 520 ohms with nothing shorted BUT...I only get a max output of 1.4 volts. Service manual states minimum 6.9 volts! Can you verify this.

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Yamaha VX 1100 cruiser, no spark, no start

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    OK, just checked out trigger. Reading 520 ohms with nothing shorted BUT...I only get a max output of 1.4 volts. Service manual states minimum 6.9 volts! Can you verify this.
    That’s way too low,the service manual has values for both loaded and unloaded output and 1.4 isn’t cutting it

    The resistance paradox indicates the potential for a wire harness issue

    I’d isolate the “pulse” coil and Check it’s output then go from there

    My money is on the trigger coil…sorry about that certainly a pain in the ass but good money

  6. #6
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    Yep, I ohmed the harness out to the ECM as well. The voltage output of the 'lighting' coil is ALSO LOW. Guess I'll be putting in a stator.

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Now certain that the stator is fried

    I’d say to have fun, but you aren’t getting that level of sarcasms out of me today since your method was methodical

    Perhaps the tr1 no start guy wil come to the same conclusion and look at his ignition trigger

  8. #8
    LOL, was watching this thread too. Glad the symptom was posted. I'll add it to my list. Just having a hard time freeing up to get back on it. Busy time of year.

  9. #9
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    SOLVED!! Ok, so the stator shorted and took out the security module and the ECU. ALSO....the voltage I was getting on the replacement stator is just fine. The info in the service manual is bogus. So since I could trigger spark through the ECU, AND the stator voltage was not high enough (according to the service manual) I thought my replacement stator was bad. Turns out whatever got fried must have been related to the input from the stator while not affecting the rest of the ECU. 1.2 -1.4vac trigger output is fine while cranking.

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