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  1. #1

    2000 Polaris Genesis NO start... Got fuel, spark, HELP

    Got a 2000 Genesis 1200... Good compression, fuel, spark, but it just won't start.

    I've swapped carbs with a known running machine and it just won't fire up. Got spark in all 3 cylinders.. 130psi compression. Drained the bottom of the block. Is there something I'm missing? Any guidance or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I'm totally stumped with this one. Help.....


    1) removed cover... checked TDC for MAG cylinder.
    2) swapped coils.
    3 compression tested 130 across all 3 cylinders
    4) removed jet pump to see if it was seized
    5) spark plugs are getting flooded and doesn't seem to be igniting.... there's no black to the plugs.
    6) flushed out all fuel... new fuel in system. Fuel lines are not the grey originals.
    7) drained the block of any excessive fluids
    swapped for a known working set of carbs.
    9) battery voltage is good... cranking with booster pack.
    10) HELP
    Last edited by Uncletinman; 07-29-2021 at 11:09 PM.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    What is the battery voltage when cranking?

    Did you confirm the base ignition timing is correct? With MAG piston at TDC the flywheel timing marks should be visible through the inspection port on top of the flywheel housing.

    If the flywheel has sheared the woodruff indexing key the ignition timing will be incorrect for all cylinders.

    Are the spark plugs firing when installed?

    If spark is marginal when testing for spark, removing a spark plug (or all of them) can allow spark but when the plugs are installed the cranking RPM is reduced (more compression load on the starter motor) and spark can go away. Use a spare spark plug to check for spark, leave all spark plugs installed.

    Use the correct spark plugs, of course.

    Is the spark bright blue, strong and fires rapidly while cranking? A weak battery can cause slow cranking and only the occasional spark.

  3. #3
    Thanks for your reply..

    I just pulled the cover off.... and it's at TDC

    Yes.. it's sparking with plugs installed and testing with another plug externally. The spark is blue and proper..

    the flywheel has some spotty corrosion, but nothing severe..


    spark plugs NGK PR9ES


    What next?

  4. #4
    Is it possible that the jet drive is seizing up that it's creating enough drag to stop it from starting? I'm just throwing random ideas.

  5. #5
    Removed the jet drive.. It's not seized.

  6. #6
    So there's compression, spark, fuel, but it's not firing... The plugs are wet, but doesn't seem to be igniting. weak coil?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncletinman View Post
    … I just pulled the cover off.... and it's at TDC

    ... it's sparking with plugs installed and testing with another plug externally. The spark is blue and proper..

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncletinman View Post
    So there's compression, spark, fuel, but it's not firing... The plugs are wet, but doesn't seem to be igniting.

    weak coil?
    This is a carburetor engine, not Ficht duel injection, correct?

    Check the wiring for correct firing order. The stator wires to the CDI (bullet connectors) are color coded. As are the wires from CDI to the ignition coil pack.

    But the spark plug wires from ignition coil to spark plugs/cylinders are not color coded. It is possible that someone has swapped around the ignition wires to the wrong cylinders.

    One way to check this is to, one at a time, connect each plug wires to the MAG spark plug. See if any of the three plug wires will cause that cylinder to fire ‘properly’.

    If one wire does, mark it as MAG. Set it aside. Now try each of the other two wires JUST on the center cylinder. If one of those wires actually causes the center to fire, mark it and set it aside.

    Now connect the remaining wire to the PTO cylinder. Does THAT wire fire that cylinder? If yes, mark it.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    You removed what cover? The flywheel housing?

    If so, be aware that the front part of the flywheel housing has the Bendix support front bushing. With the flywheel cover removed cranking the engine puts a huge strain on the Bendix and the remaining rear bushing.

    Also, don’t lose any of the small parts that fit in front of the Bendix. There is a tension spring with plastic tip (that likes to disappear under the engine) and a flat washer.

  9. #9
    Yes.. it's a carbed engine.... my FICHT one fires up so nicely... I just tore that engine apart last week.... that's a whole different drama/story, but it's running great.

    I have the box open. the wires are correct... This was a running machine in the fall before winter storage.. It just won't start after winter... So all the wiring and ignition wires should be correct.

    I know about the Bendix supporting on the cover.. i've taken the cover off more than enough times now. I'm just super stumped with this right now. I feel like I've covered all the obvious things, but must be missing something... hence for the posts seeking for any pointers.

    What I'm finding strange is the plugs are getting somewhat wet/flooded... almost signaling a no spark symptom... and no combustion happening... there's no temperature to the plugs after attempting to fire even for long durations.... So... could that be the issure? no spark? but there's spark when I test them externally.... each wire has spark.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by Uncletinman; 07-31-2021 at 10:08 AM.


  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You removed what cover? The flywheel housing?

    If so, be aware that the front part of the flywheel housing has the Bendix support front bushing. With the flywheel cover removed cranking the engine puts a huge strain on the Bendix and the remaining rear bushing.

    Also, don’t lose any of the small parts that fit in front of the Bendix. There is a tension spring with plastic tip (that likes to disappear under the engine) and a flat washer.

    I was browsing another thread about no spark... and the mention of CDI and base timing

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=294013&page=2

    I'm wondering if the timing of the CDI being off would cause a spark timing issue? Can the timing be so far off that it would not fire up?

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