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  1. #51
    Tucker1's Avatar
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    Iv looked at the Riva Gen 2 plate on Riva, Green hulk store and Deans Team. They all look the same so I'm assuming they are all just a Riva gen2 plate?

  2. #52
    Bryonjodinolan's Avatar
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    I’m pretty sure dean machines more angle in plate to lift the bow. On my old gpr I sent my r&d plate to Jim and I gained 3 mph over just the r&d


  3. #53
    @ Teufelhund
    Thank you for sharing the video of the dual battery and pump. I have the factory audio kit on my 21 GP1800R SVHO. I would like to add a second battery and ACR for the tunes. I also look forward to the music staying on when I start the engine.

    Can you provide additional details of how you installed a second battery including:
    Type of battery
    Mounting of the second battery
    Installation of your ACR and wiring
    Any other tips or concerns?

    Thank you

  4. #54
    Teufelhund's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXDroneRacer View Post
    @ Teufelhund
    Thank you for sharing the video of the dual battery and pump. I have the factory audio kit on my 21 GP1800R SVHO. I would like to add a second battery and ACR for the tunes. I also look forward to the music staying on when I start the engine.

    Can you provide additional details of how you installed a second battery including:
    Type of battery
    Mounting of the second battery
    Installation of your ACR and wiring
    Any other tips or concerns?

    Thank you
    This video shows the set of aluminum bars machined by Michael, and the extra battery box. I only bought the partial kit, and made my own wire. The battery is a deka Etx-16.
    The ACR is Blue Sea 7601. I also added a cut off switch, which controls ONLY the accessory load (radio, usb outlet, bilge pump, etc.), a typical Amazon switch.

    I DID NOT wire my setup like in the video, I did not want or need the second battery to be involved in the factory wiring. I’ll get a few pics and post after my coffee, and draw out my wiring schematic.

    Blue Sea 7601 DC Mini ACR... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ9PU7U...p_mob_ap_share

    Battery Disconnect Switch with 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B85G8RY...p_mob_ap_share

    https://www.seamar.com/item/BLS5023/...-BLADE-4-CIRC/

    all battery cables are 6 Awg, marine grade copper wire tinned, with double heat shrink ends, crimped with a hydraulic crimper.
    Last edited by Teufelhund; 09-29-2021 at 08:25 AM.

  5. #55
    Teufelhund's Avatar
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    Wiring schematic

    Here’s my wiring setup. Lol, don’t judge my drafting skills, it’s only one cup of coffee so far
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #56
    Teufelhund's Avatar
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    Dual battery vid

    Here’s a link to my description of my wiring…lol, keep in mind I’ve no aspirations to be a YouTube star, hence my poor vid skills


  7. #57
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teufelhund View Post


    This video shows the set of aluminum bars machined by Michael, and the extra battery box. I only bought the partial kit, and made my own wire. ..l

    The ACR is Blue Sea 7601. I also added a cut off switch, which controls ONLY the accessory load (radio, usb outlet, bilge pump, etc.), a typical Amazon switch.

    … I did not want or need the second battery to be involved in the factory wiring. … my wiring schematic.

    Blue Sea 7601 DC Mini ACR... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ9PU7U...p_mob_ap_share

    Battery Disconnect Switch with 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B85G8RY...p_mob_ap_share

    https://www.seamar.com/item/BLS5023/...-BLADE-4-CIRC/

    ...
    I have not yet seen your wiring schematic, but I tend to align with not altering the factory wiring, at all, when adding a second battery and battery combiner.

    I have previously posted some thoughts and suggested configuration info in several battery combiner threads. Here are a couple of links.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3102347

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3129717


    Often overlooked when installing a battery switch, combiner, or simply additional 12 volt accessories, is the unique conditions inside a PWC hull. Unlike a boat engine compartment, a PWC does not have an electrically powered bilge blower to extract potential gasoline fumes and ensure the atmosphere inside the hull is non-explosive. One of the Coast Guard exemptions listed on the hull sticker is the omission of the bilge blower requirement.

    Instead, the PWC manufacturers have undertaken * to construct the entire PWC electrical system to be ‘ignition proof’ (which I sometimes refer to as explosion proof). Every single electrical connector inside the hull is not only sealed against water ingress, the connections are also air-tight and sealed from the surrounding atmosphere inside the hull.

    The idea is that even if the enclosed PWC hull were to fill with potentially explosive gasoline fumes, the electrical system could not emit a spark. Any contact arcing that might occur would happen inside a sealed connector, where it cannot ignite the nearby fumes.


    A junction box like the Seamar you linked to does not meet the requirements for ignition-proof use inside a PWC hull. There are multiple electrical connections exposed to the air inside the hull. It is also not waterproof, allowing water condensation and moisture to directly contact the metal elements. Inside a PWC hull is often damp, you want everything installed in there to withstand prolonged exposure to moisture.

    This sort of junction box is meant for well ventilated areas on a boat, such as under the helm or inside the power ventilated engine compartment.



    * Somehow, despite properly sealing the entire PWC electrical system throughout the hull from atmospheric exposure (airtight and water ingress sealed) the heavy 12 volt battery cables and battery connections continue to be unsealed, essentially unchanged from the PWC battery and cable arrangement of thirty+ years ago.

    I cannot say why the PWC industry has not improved upon this during the decades PWC have been in use. During that time periodic PWC explosions have occurred and continue to occur. We may not individually be aware of how often this happens, but as an industry it deserves to be addressed. People are being seriously hurt and sometimes killed.

    The majority of PWC explosion and fire incidents involve an electric spark igniting gasoline fumes accumulated inside the hull. Modern 4-stroke engines tend have simpler and more reliable fuel systems, so leaks and fume accumulation inside the hull seems less likely than the days of carburetors with many fuel hoses, connections and hose clamps, all possible sources for fuel leakage.

    Nevertheless the PWC manufacturers can do better. It is possible to design a battery to engine connection method that eliminates contact between possible arcing at the metal connections and the (potentially explosive) air inside the hull.


    When adding or modifying the electrical system inside the hull, I recommend using fully sealed connectors and connections. AND minimizing the total number of critical connections.

    Especially minimizing anything that should it work loose, corrode, fall apart (engine vibration and hull impacts while riding) or just plain fail, might strand the rider on the water. Most mechanical battery switches are in this category - if it goes wrong the rider may be stranded with a non-running engine.


    The linked battery switch includes “Copper terminals with galvanized steel hex nuts and washers

    I am disappointed at how often I see ‘marine’ gear sold with steel hardware - screws, nuts and washers. Plated/coated/zinc whatever, steel is not the optimal material for binding a cable to a post, especially in a marine environment. Brass and stainless steel hardware exists and is generally available. If I was using this sort of product I would replace all the steel with brass or SS screws, nuts and washers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #58
    Teufelhund's Avatar
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    K447, u are absolutely one of the best sources of info here in the forums, with a wealth of knowledge just overwhelming at times. I agree in principle on what your saying, but the reality of exposed battery cables at both battery and starter ends sorta gives me less of an incentive to go crazy on sealed connections. And my factory wiring is completely and wholly intact and separate from all my add-ons. So reliability is not compromised. Any failure of my add-ons will not impact the ski starting or running. As an exercise in precaution, do u have a sealed accessory power junction box/fuse box u like?

  9. #59
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teufelhund View Post
    … a sealed accessory power junction box/fuse box u like?
    I have used a few different methods when creating auxiliary wire harnesses. I forget the name/type of the wide sealed connector

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2416635



    I do like that this connector type accepts bus bar segments and the compact fuses plug straight in.


    On this I even fitted a diode inside.

  10. #60
    Teufelhund's Avatar
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    Just rode tonight after adding a Worx free flow exhaust to my setup…gotta say, I’m not a big fan, fairly annoying drone thru 2500-5000 rpm, gotta be going near 45 before it subsides. My first inclination was to take it off and put stock back on

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