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  1. #11
    I got the flywheel off by putting a pipe wrench with breaker bar onto the pto coupler and using a normal wrench with a breaker bar to break the flywheel free. I stood on the pto breaker bar to help stabilize and hold it down and cranked down on the flywheel nut (all this is with the engine out and on the floor). Originally I was trying to get the pto coupler off with this method and had no luck. I maybe needed more heat I really don't know but the flywheel nut seemed to come of easier so I said screw it I just need to open the case and figure out whats going on and just left it on. I had been trying for a good 2 hours to get the pto coupler off.

    I really don't know why the bearings failed. It looks like all the metal shavings came from the bearings. I looked over everything very carefully and it seems the only sign of any damage is in those bearings. I think the one really bad one got metal shavings into the other 2.

    I think i probably got lucky because when I noticed there was an issue I stopped trying to turn the engine over.

    I am concerned that there was not enough oil being used and I want to block off the oil pump and go pre mix. Everything did seem very oily though and I didn't find any dry parts or spots.

    Whats the best kind of oil to use? The guy I got it from said he ran amsoil fully synthetic 2 stroke oil through it and it was full so I haven't added any. I ran maybe 8 gallons of gas through it and still have a little over half a tank of oil.

    I was going to see what the dealer recommends when I go there

    I am also going to upgrade the fuel pump to the 3 output fuel pump as I saw its recommended to do so.
    Last edited by disgracedtuna; 07-20-2021 at 12:06 AM.

  2. #12
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Well, that is a good way to possibly ruin a crankshaft. Good thing yours is no good.

    They are only press fit with multiple pieces. So it's quite possible to move the pieces while under pressure like that.

    If you're going to remove the flywheel, you need to stop the MAG piston from moving, and when you remove the engine coupler, you need to stop the PTO from moving.

    The bearings either failed from age/wear, rust from water intrusion, or a lack of lubrication. Possibly a combination of them as well.

    The oil pumps are usually pretty good. It's the oil hoses that usually are the problem. No one seems to replace them. They are old, get brittle and crack.

    Amsoil synthetic is overkill for a 650, but good stuff. So you could keep running it and be fine. TCW3 is the rated oil you need to run in a polaris.

    If you're going to tackle this job, you're going to need to get your hands on the repair manual and read over it before you start. Get familiar with the procedure and follow along as you do the repair.

  3. #13
    I've done a ton of research and I have a crankshaft that should be arriving tomorrow. I'm gonna throw the crankshaft in and reseal the case tomorrow if it shows up. Hopefully it all works out because I spent too much time and money on this lol

  4. #14
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Did you get new crank seals and gaskets?

    You'll want new seals to do the crankcase.

  5. #15
    I did get new seals. I reassembled everything and im just trying to get the carbs tuned. I'm having a strange problem where it bogs down anytime I try to turn. I cleaned out the carbs which weren't too dirty but I think my adjustments are too rich. Every time I try to take a turn it bogs down and then I straighten out and it takes a couple seconds before it takes off. Hopefully today I'll get it running better. I know the reeds weren't in the best condition so I'm waiting on them to come in the mail so I can replace them. Hopefully the stock carb settings will help sort out my bogging issue.

  6. #16
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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  7. #17
    Thanks for all the help xlint! I adjusted the carbs back to stock settings and richened them up to the point where its maybe slightly effecting performance but its still running great. Id rather be a little rich than too lean. Ski did great on the water today after adjustments. The last thing im noticing is that there is what I believe to be a fuel filter just after the selector valve (bypassed). I thought maybe it was a fuel/water separator but it doesnt look like any of the ones ive been able to find through research. Its just a small yellow straight passthrough container. Do you think it would be okay to remove it and replace it with a regular fuel filter? Ive noticed it seems to have air trapped inside of it and im trying to keep air out of the fuel lines. I replaced all the fuel lines aside from the return line and the pulse line but I inspected those and made sure there were no blockages and that they were in good condition. Is it normal to have some air in the fuel lines? Seems like its all coming from that filter. Ive also bypassed the selector switch, added my own shutoff valve, and capped off the ON fuel line.


  8. #18
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Pictures please.

  9. #19
    Okay so I still can't figure out how to upload pictures from my phone. I take the picture and press upload and nothing happens. I found this fuel filter and it looks basically identical to this one except mine looks like a yellowish color.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/po...ABEgLaCvD_BwE/

    Seems to me it is just a filter and wouldn't be an issue to just switch out
    Last edited by disgracedtuna; 08-01-2021 at 09:56 AM.

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