2003 1200 STX-R - where 2 find parts? eng paint, battery holder, tygon, jet pump

[ekm]

Hi All,
I have a 2003 STX that the pump seized due to salt water corrosion. I pulled the motor thinking it was seized but it was the pump. Well the motor is hanging in a sling so I would like to paint it. Any idea on where to find paint? The metal battery holder is rusted out and I can't seem to find it on the parts diagrams? Not the rubber holder but the metal holder that is attached to the hull. Will replace the oil injection tubing before it goes back in...what is the best source of tygon tubing and size?

the pump is apart and the SS ring is out. Who make a good quality aftermarket wear ring? I looked for a used pump but gave up as the prop is different on the 1100's (found lots of 1100 pumps) Ebay wear rings looks unfinished as you can see the weld seam. I will take the carbs apart before re-installing and drain the tank. Its been sitting for two seasons but it time to get it running. I even went to DMV and have a new registration.

Anything else that should be done prior to reinstalling the motor? Replacing all the seals and bearings on the pump drive train.
Thanks for any advice. How does the STXR handling compare to big PWC's? This sled used to eat up the non-supercharged 4S PWCs.
2 Strokes Rule!

[beekermartin]

I don't believe the wear ring is replaceable on these pumps. At least not without a lot of machining. If memory serves me correctly the 1200 STX-R uses the same pump housing as the 1100 ZXI. The part number is 59496-3749. You are most likely better off finding a new pump housing and rebuilding the pump. Then install the prop from the STX-R. I would need to check my long thread but I am almost positive I bought a used 1100 ZXI housing to rebuild mine. I remember finding a thread about someone changing out the wear ring on one of these housings. It was a very big job. At least for me it would be.

[turboman412]

Any 1100 148mm pump will work, that sized was used on all the later tripple cylinders...

[steve45]

Here's a link for the battery tray: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ka...ical-equipment Doesn't look like a metal one to me.

For oil lines, I use 1/8" ID polyurethane hose from Ebay. I use .025" stainless steel safety wire to secure it.

I would recommend that you replace the driveshaft seal assembly (called the 'holder'). Rhaas makes a good one. You might consider replacing the engine mounts, too.

[turboman412]

Steve hes look for the steel peice that attaches to the hull that bolts to. You cannot get it separate will have to find someone parting a machine to get it.

[ekm]

Steve he is look for the steel piece that attaches to the hull that bolts to. You cannot get it separate will have to find someone parting a machine to get it.

Yes.....steel piece that is corroded to almost nothing! Are they common to all STX's? Do they bolt in as I don't remember or I can pull out the old one and weld or braze new plates to it.

What about paint to make my engine look new again??

I have the pump coming 59496-0003 and have the bearing kit. also have new bearings and seals for the drive shaft bearing holder.
Tygon tubing...1/8" ID en-route too.

So do engine mounts fail frequently? where is the best place to find them?

[steve45]

Steve hes look for the steel peice that attaches to the hull that bolts to. You cannot get it separate will have to find someone parting a machine to get it.

Oh, I was wondering about that. Look on Ebay.

The engine mounts don't fail that often, but that engine only has 3 of them.

[SeawardToast]

If you have the engine out already you might as well do the mounts. Everyone seems to really love the Rhaas mounts, I got a set along with his driveshaft holder. Absolutely love the driveshaft holder, but the mounts all broke after a season. Could have been my mistake during installation though. He is getting me another set shipped out. Highly recommend the rhaas driveshaft holder though

[nmpeter]

since your engine is hanging on its lifting gizmo it would be advised to check the oil pump drive system. Steve has an excellent thread on the topic. That also give you a change to do some nice paint work on the stator cover and replace all the bolts with new or hit them on a wire wheel and some clear paint

I cringe when I see people painted over their hardware when I had to work on engines

there is a workbook procedure to align the kawasaki engine on the mounts. Due to the design of their drive line its extremely important that the engine is sitting correctly

[steve45]

since your engine is hanging on its lifting gizmo it would be advised to check the oil pump drive system. Steve has an excellent thread on the topic.

This is the 1200 engine, which doesn't use the drive coupling bearing setup that the 900 and 1100 engines use. I think the only thing you really need to do is inspect/upgrade the oil hoses. Use 1/8" ID polyurethane hose (Ebay), and secure either with Oetiker clamps or .025" stainless steel safety wire. Wrap the wire around the hose twice, then twist the ends together with pliers to tighten the wire. Cut off the excess wire and bend it over so you don't stab yourself on it later. Get a service manual and be certain that the hoses go to the correct places--it DOES make a difference! Leave the oil lines for the carbs extra long so you can remove them easily without removing the oil lines.