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  1. #21
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    I would plan on doing several layers over the whole thing. I have never had great luck with localized layups blending out all that well.

    Sean

  2. #22
    ZXIINNJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysevin View Post
    I would plan on doing several layers over the whole thing. I have never had great luck with localized layups blending out all that well.

    Sean
    I believe it will take 3-4 layers of fiberglass mat with epoxy wetting and curing in between layers. It will be better than what was there.

  3. #23
    Myself's Avatar
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    You start with a small piece in the center of the repair. Then as you layer, cut the new glass larger and overlap....repeat. Keep an eye on the buildup using a straightedge. When it gets close to the surrounding height, switch to a fairing compound then blend into the surrounding area.

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  5. #24
    ZXIINNJ's Avatar
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    Update: sanded and cleaned first layer of epoxy. Cut and installed fiberglass matte like "Myself" described, above, and gave it a couple of days to cure. Sanded it down. Mixed epoxy with 407 Low Density Fairing Filler to "Peanut Butter" consistency, and applied to repair, overlapping edges. Did not have long to work with it as it was curing quickly. I did not get it built up enough, as you can see from the photos. Next step is to let this cure, sand, and do 2nd application of epoxy and 407 - trying to get it a bit higher than needed to account for sanding and reshaping center line.
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  6. #25
    Myself's Avatar
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    Looking good. Should be a solid, permanent repair.

  7. #26
    ZXIINNJ's Avatar
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    Thanks!!! Applied what I hope to be the final coat of epoxy + filler. I just did not build up the initial layers of fiberglass matte and have had to build up more. Also, I had to restore the center line (keel?) because of the removal of the old repair material.

    The Bondo flexible scrapers are great - a must for this kind of work, and I feel like I started to get better at shaping a curve to follow the contour of the hull and build up the filler where I needed it. Once the filler is mixed in to the consistency of peanut butter, you have to really be quick and focused. It's starts curing immediately and you only have a few minutes before it's no longer spreadable.

    Clean up is with acetone. All of these materials and chemicals are potent and have to be treated with caution and proper protection. Much respect to people who do this for a living.

    Here are some update photos:

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  8. #27
    Myself's Avatar
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    Yep, a good buddy of mine (been friends since high school) restores classic cars. He makes the sheet metal work and body filler look easy, LOL!


  9. #28
    ZXIINNJ's Avatar
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    Update: finished taping and applying three coats of epoxy - couple of runs where I put it on too thick for the final coat. Took about 2hrs in between coats of epoxy - just long enough for it to "tack up," meaning that it's tacky but will not transfer to a gloved finger. Temp was about 72deg f so I went from 209 Extra Slow Hardener to 206. Next step is remove amine blush with water wash with Scotchbrite pad, sand with 220, prime, and paint. Hoping that tape didn't have any bleed through and will remove easily.

    When completed I'll put together a summary for anyone considering similar repairs.

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  10. #29
    ZXIINNJ's Avatar
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    Update: two coats primer rolled and tipped.

    Update: my painting technique is not very good - left many areas that needed heavy sanding and re-coating. You're either going to "lean in" and summon as much patience as you can, or lose it altogether lol!

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  11. #30
    ZXIINNJ's Avatar
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    Update: finished rolling, tipping, and lightly sanding with 220 the first coat of "Pettit EZ Poxy Topside Paint." Brushes and roller stored in fridge in aluminum foil. High humidity in Central New Jersey is not helping. 2nd coat goes on as soon as the weather is more cooperative.

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