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  1. #11
    steve45's Avatar
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    This:



    You can remove the booms.
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  2. #12
    Well looks like the Beach Dolly will be my only option , Ive emailed and called the Hitch Extension people and no response. Any one actually use one of these bad boys and can recommend a brand ? The Tow Surfer looks the best so far.

  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRL GP1800 View Post
    … Hitch Extension … no response.

    … recommend a brand ? …
    A local metal fabricator can build something similar to the Hitch Extension for your trailer. Aluminum would be my material preference but galvanized or even painted steel might be sufficient.

    There is nothing really complicated about a tongue extension. It just needs to be strong enough, stiff enough, and long enough to do the job.

  4. #14

  5. #15
    so easy to solve. get some liquid rollers or silocone spray and lube your bunk boards. The PWC will literally fly off the trailer with one push. make sure you bow strap and rear straps are tight. One application is good for 10 launches.


    On a side note I store my pwc on a 4 post lift in the garage needed it to sit lower. I made a 3" drop axle for trailer and I pretty sure my trailer sits the lowest of any PWC in country.

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardRider View Post
    … I made a 3" drop axle for trailer and I pretty sure my trailer sits the lowest of any PWC in country.
    Photos?

    Any how-to tips for the next guy who needs to do something similar?

  7. #17

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    What I did one time when I had this problem.
    Remove trailer hitch from the square tubing that's on the trailer.
    Measure the inside of the squared tube, go to a steel supply center or buy on-line a tube that will slide into the trailers tube. Measure how long of a tube will slide inside. ( i ended up with about 5ft that pulls out)
    Attach the trailer hitch to the new tube. Slide the tube in and drill a 5/8 or 1/2 inch hole in the tube all the way back in. Use one of the bolt holes that held the hitch on. Then pull the tube out and drill a second hole in the same hole. Use a hitch pin in this hole. So the object is when you get to the dock, you remove the hitch pin, pull the tube out and reinstall the pin. Hope you try to understand what I am saying. Jerry


  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by conroe View Post
    What I did one time when I had this problem.
    Remove trailer hitch from the square tubing that's on the trailer.
    Measure the inside of the squared tube, go to a steel supply center or buy on-line a tube that will slide into the trailers tube. Measure how long of a tube will slide inside. ( i ended up with about 5ft that pulls out)
    Attach the trailer hitch to the new tube. Slide the tube in and drill a 5/8 or 1/2 inch hole in the tube all the way back in.

    Use one of the bolt holes that held the hitch on. Then pull the tube out and drill a second hole in the same hole. Use a hitch pin in this hole.

    So the object is when you get to the dock, you remove the hitch pin, pull the tube out and reinstall the pin. ...
    Do you uncouple the trailer form tow vehicle while you change the tongue length?

    Do you have a stop to prevent the tongue extension tube from pulling out too far?

    What are you using the coupler removed bolt hole for? Instead of a bolt you are now using a Clevis style pin?

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Do you uncouple the trailer form tow vehicle while you change the tongue length?

    Do you have a stop to prevent the tongue extension tube from pulling out too far?

    What are you using the coupler removed bolt hole for? Instead of a bolt you are now using a Clevis style pin?
    Yes-un-hook trailer, pull forward, pull out the tube then re-attach to car. Use the oringinal bolt hole in the trailer tong, When you pull the extension put you can see the second drill hole, then stop. Also forgot to mention, the trailer wireing thats inside the tube, re-rout to the outside

  10. #20

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    Forgot to mention also when you are backing up, the trailer is easy to control.
    Now if you want to go ball's out, you could fabricate a small crank with a cable attached to the front of the tube and one to the back. Turn the crank and the tube would slide out or in. No need to disconnect from the car.

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