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Thread: Turbo FZ Build

  1. #1
    mittens's Avatar
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    Turbo FZ Build

    Wanted to start a build thread with all the pics and info I can provide in one place. I try and keep good records, maybe this will be helpful to others.

    My Goal was a bolt on Turbo set up that did not require removing the midwall, or the loss of rear storage. Keeping most the basic mods all in place so a true bolt on and off system. But with a turbo, and NO MORE Clutches.

    To start I bought a 2016 FZ, that has some basic mods, then I ran it last season with those mods. Ski was awesome, ran a best of 90/91, but normally with Alabama heat, fuel, and cooler it was a honest 86-88mph ski weather depending. Mods being - Deans Tune (9300), Innovative PBS-1 Wide Band & Boost gauge, TinyTach, Candoo Speedo, Riva Intake, Pinned Blower, Riva supercharger shaft, Lumajet V2 clutch, Fizzle/Tial, Ribbon Delete, Riva RRFPR, Riva retainers, Riva O2 adapter, Riva waterbox, Riva Through Hull Exhaust, Deans Cut Intake Grate, Solas 13/20 (Deans repitch), Deans cut ride plate, Worx Sponsons, Coco's Tunnel Reinforcement, Riva Billet Shaft Sleeve, Riva dual cooling, Works steering stem.

    I have attached a Spread sheet for every part I have bought with costs. I started with making a stainless 1/2" thick flange to bolt to the factory tail pipe. That was then used to make the Up pipe. The Up pipe was supposed to have the Imput bung on the bottom for better draining but slipped past my welder. will plug old, and add one this winter. Pics of up pipe, can see the custom flange, and the V band for the turbo.






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    Last edited by mittens; 05-24-2021 at 09:40 AM.


  2. #2
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    The Turbo used was a Borg Warner EFR 6758. Turbine housing is a 0.85 AR housing made of Case Stainless Steal. Welded the 304 SS jacket around it. Few pics of it. Water bung on the top and bottom side so it drains great.

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  4. #3
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    The down pipe I wanted to be self draining (welder again put my imput bung on top not bottom and will change later for draining) and have a high point so the pipes stayed dry when done riding, and hopefully make Wide band sensors last. Can see the wideband bung on top as well. Its also a V band for easy assembly/disassembly. It connects to the Old Riva through hull / rear exit. Cut the elbow off the Riva pipe, and use same couplers. Riva states the couplers are good for 300 degrees. For the water injection holes, I did 6 holes as I was originally trying to replicate the 4x 1/4" holes in the factory stinger and the Riva 02 adapters surface area. As I was going to used the rectifiers exit water to feed the down pipe, but have since changed and all turbo water is going out the down pipe. Rectifer exit water/ old water box feed is dumped out a 4th factory pisser.

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    Last edited by mittens; 05-24-2021 at 09:42 AM.

  5. #4
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    For the Cold side, I used a 2 inch polished aluminum intercooler kit off amazon. Came with couplers and clamps and U bends, 90s, 45s, and straits. Tried to use the 45s, and the U but everything we needed was ethier more tight or 45s where not enough. So Pie cuts was key in fitment. Also needed a 2inch to 2.5 inch transition peace that the welder provided, and put right before the intercooler. The welder used for the Cold pipe was different from the Jacketed SS hot pipes.

    I wanted to leave the Fizzle 1000 in the stock location again for easy install/ swappable. Also I use factry flush fittings for the Fizzle, and the turbo pipes so you can see 3 mounted to the mid wall in these pics and wanted the Cold pipes high enough to not cause issue flushing, and go aaround the rear storage bucket. Made it 2 peace so I can remove easier and not mess with the other 1/2. Aslo supported by the 2 bolt holes from the factory cover mounts. Keeps it all tight and to the motor, and easy to service.

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  6. #5
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    Motor wise I used a 1.8 HO oil pump drive gear. At first I used a SHO center gear off a clutch, but was not told about welding the 4 oil holes shut to keep oil pressure up, and had to remove and then said F it and used a HO gear like I originally planned. Oil feed hard line was removed. Plugged Oil pump side, removed idler gear, bushing, and shaft. Remove my Lumajet Clutch and replaced with the HO gear. I used the stock crank bolt and a new Oil pump gasket. Bought HO charger block off plate, gasket, and stainless bolts for plate. I liked the factory block off plate vs aftermarket as is uses all 6 bolt holes vs just 4. I am sure both work fine.

    Deans team 1000cc injectors, and 3 bar map sensor were new to this install, I changed my Tial BOV from a green supercharger spring to a yellow Tial Turbo spring. I also installed a Riva throttle body mount as it was not done to the ski before, so might as well fix possible boost leaks now.

    Cooling wise, I did not change the set up much as it was already spinning 9000 RPM and working great in the Alabama heat. So added a WorX dual cooling plate, and used my old speedo fitting hole for a new through hull fitting. Its a bulk head fitting with 1/2 NPT threads on each side. 90 degree barbed 1/2 fitting on outside, and a strait 1/2 barb fitting on inside. One of the feeds connects to the old fizzle dedicated line, and the new feed goes through the new bulk head fitting, and then to the Up pipe, from the Up pipe exit it feeds the turbo center cartridge, then out of it and into the turbine housing, and then out of turbine housing and into the down pipe, all exiting the tail pipe/ rear through hull exhaust.

    First Ride I used temp gun and never saw any temps above 130. normally when running 98-110 but once stopped and water flow stops they heat the water but normally all peaking 130ish.

    Grimmspeed manual boost controller is being used to control boost. Using medium boost Borg Warner Wastegate canister I had it set at 5mm of preload. was expecting 12psi on spring pressure but it was more like 9.5 psi. Can see it mounted on the back of the valve cover. Also a shot looking down with all seat frames mounted to see clearance and how it all looks.

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  7. #6
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    Oil Feed I am using the stock hard oil line Banjo Bolt and washers on a 6an banjo bolt fitting. This connects to a 6AN custom oil line I made with 90 fitting, Is held in place with 3M zip tie mounts, tucking it up alone the inner ridge of the hull, and runs it back around the mid wall, under the 2 factory flushes and then 90 fitting into the turbo.

    The turbo has a standard barbed fitting 5/8 hose barb drain. The oil drain is a 5/8 fuel / oil hose (don't use heater hose will not withstand oil and heat). it runs down/ 90s, and around through the midwall hole and into the old drain line. with a brass T. (hose is a little collapsed I know I have a brass 90 incase this is a issue, but after testing no smoke or drain issues)

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  8. #7
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    Deans Team did the tune, and was updated. I moved Rev limit to 9500 rpms.

    First Day and only day out so far. 85 air temps and 72 water temps.

    I started at spring pressure (9.5), and 54lbs of fuel pressure. Was super rich, so slowly worked my way up on boost and then worked my way down on fuel. Did not finish dialing it in but I got it to 17lbs of boost and 51 lbs of fuel pressure, @ 11.5 AFR. this resulted in 9120 rpms. Still need to lean it out some more should pick up a few more RPM. Ski was running 88mph like this with a full tool bag, spare parts, cooler, and full of fuel.

    I have made no changes to pump, or prop yet. With some more tuning, normal loads, should be in the 90s in heat.. sure feels and sounds a lot different. I have a faster ride plate I can try and a pump wedge as well. but currently dialing in motor wise and then will play with plates and stuff again.




  9. #8
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    Something to note Weight differences.

    Before:
    Lumjet V2 Clutch - 3.08 lbs
    SVHO Idle Gear & Shaft - 1.03lbs
    Riva Cold air 3.4 lbs
    Riva water Box 6.62 lbs
    Fizzle U pip 1.66 lbd
    HKS SVHO CHarger / Riva Shaft 9.26 lbs
    Riva O2 adapter & Stinger 3.28 lbs

    28.33 lbs of stuff taken off.

    Turbo weights
    Exhuast housing jacketed 8.72 lbs
    Compressor housing & Center cartridge 7.31 lbs
    Down pipe 5.42 lbs
    Up Pipe 8.0 lbs
    29 lbs.. I forgot to weight the Cold pipes but they are light.. will do it next time they are off. but over all not a lot of weight added just moved from the front to the back.

  10. #9
    What great information for those of us who have this mod in mind.

  11. #10
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    I wanted to share what I can. A lot of pulling teeth or lack of details how & what to do with certain details.

    also side note. Exhaust temp sensor is currently not being used just plugged in & zip tied out of the way. Once I get a bottom bung welded in & can move the water feed to bottom I will tap the 1/2" NTP plug for the top for the sensor then will have a working exhust water temp sensor warning.

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