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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by ptscon View Post
    For sure, service manual wants to replace way too many regular stainless bolts.

    When I install the cone I do the bolts by hand not with a torque wrench. I used a torque wrench before set to 66 in-lb and it was cracking the plastic around the bolt holes. Blue thread locker and nicely evenly snug, the cone itself is in there so tight it just needs the bolts in place to keep it from moving out.
    You animal. When you feel the plastic cracking back off half a turn.

    Lock tight and snug them down evenly and you'll be good to go. Only bolts I ever replace are motor mount bolts unless they come out real easy...but they almost never do.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    You animal. When you feel the plastic cracking back off half a turn.
    Gyms are closed so I need to get my workouts somewhere




    So yesterday I did a pre-season pump check and the mercruiser lube is still there looking pretty. First top up since I filled it last year, it dropped a little bit.

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  3. #23
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    Did you clean out the grease and change to oil or just "top off" with the Merc oil? I would be concerned that the oil would wash the grease out of the bearings. Of course, if there is enough grease/oil, the bearings will pull it up and sling the lube to keep things covered.

  4. #24
    ptscon's Avatar
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    I just removed all the grease and filled it with lube.

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  6. #25
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    It's the end of the season for me so I am pulling the pump today on my 18 PX checking for water intrusion. The pump has never been off or had any PM. Removing the iBR gate/VTS was much more involved than my XPL models. I removed it all as an assembly. Is that the best way, didn't see the point in trying to remove the individual pieces?

    We previously discussed pump grease, if no signs of water, what do you guys do about the volume of grease? Do I just clean out the cone and kinda repack any empty voids on the cone side of the pump? The shop manual gives some measurement, but it seems arbitrary. Does the cone need any grease to slow or prevent migration of the grease in the bearings?


  7. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Bilford View Post
    It's the end of the season for me so I am pulling the pump today on my 18 PX checking for water intrusion. The pump has never been off or had any PM. Removing the iBR gate/VTS was much more involved than my XPL models. I removed it all as an assembly. Is that the best way, didn't see the point in trying to remove the individual pieces?

    We previously discussed pump grease, if no signs of water, what do you guys do about the volume of grease? Do I just clean out the cone and kinda repack any empty voids on the cone side of the pump? The shop manual gives some measurement, but it seems arbitrary. Does the cone need any grease to slow or prevent migration of the grease in the bearings?
    And while we're at it, should we use one of those needles that you can put on the end of a grease gun to get it in every crevice for start up or is that overkill/paranoia?

  8. #27
    In the 18 years of rebuilding 4tec jetpumps I can say that the failures never came from the lubrication but from water ingress, leaky seals or o-rings, sometimes broken plastic pumps, but never the from grease

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by winterstick View Post
    In the 18 years of rebuilding 4tec jetpumps I can say that the failures never came from the lubrication but from water ingress, leaky seals or o-rings, sometimes broken plastic pumps, but never the from grease
    That's why I am pulling the pump to check for any seal issues. I don't want water sitting in there ruining the bearings during the off season.
    I'm just trying to gather some info on how much grease to put back in the rear area and cone.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Team Bilford View Post
    I'm just trying to gather some info on how much grease to put back in the rear area and cone.
    The same amount you take out There's nothing to it really, when I used grease I just filled it up pretty well leaving some space for some expansion.

  11. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by ptscon View Post
    For sure, service manual wants to replace way too many regular stainless bolts.

    When I install the cone I do the bolts by hand not with a torque wrench. I used a torque wrench before set to 66 in-lb and it was cracking the plastic around the bolt holes. Blue thread locker and nicely evenly snug, the cone itself is in there so tight it just needs the bolts in place to keep it from moving out.
    Yep! Torquing to 66in lb to do correctly you have to do it in 5-10 inlb increments and go around in a circle pattern on each bolt increasing the torque with each one. If not, you will end up just crushing the plastic. Best to just use Loctite 243 and hand tighten.

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