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  1. #1

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    2002 Polaris Virage I 800 DI - wont start! (NIGHTMARE)

    Hello all,

    Seeking some help with a 2002 polaris virage 800 DI. A buddy bought this ski at a rummage sale not running with the previous owner saying it had a cracked jug and needed to be fixed. I volunteered to help him out and get it running.

    Got the jug fixed and new piston and rings put in and go to start and it wont start. (see attached video of it trying).

    Its getting fuel (pressure gauge reads 20psi when cranking over) plugs are soaking wet when removed. It will pop every once in awhile and acts like its trying to start. It has spark also verified with inline spark checker.

    It almost acts like it could be out of time. Havent torn the cover off yet to access the flywheel and stator. Hoping to not have to pull the motor out of the machine.

    Tried doing the stator testing procedure (that was in another thread) and got some weird numbers that im not sure if this would be making the issue. Or if i did it wrong. The first two readings ohms were in spec but voltage high, and the last 3 ohms not in spec and voltage high

    Readings
    (1,12) .3 ohms, 9.6v
    (2,11) .2 ohms 10v
    (3,10) 0 ohms, 6.1v
    (4,9) 0 ohms, 6.1v
    (5,8 ) 0 ohms, 6.3v

    Also when testing each individual pin (1-12) for ohm resistance to ground (battery) I wasnt able to read anything and didnt get O.L. like the testing says it should be.

    Could this be a start for my problem? Im already about to make the ski fish habitat at the bottom of the lake.

    Some other odd things I noticed-

    1) the MFI display never shuts off- always says unlocked. Is that normal?
    2) Fuel gauge display does not work


    TIA for your help.


  2. #2

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    Trying to upload video but not sure how.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    Given the diagnostics you have done so far, my initial guess is the either the flywheel has rotated out of time on the crank front.

    Or the EMM has an internal failure. Sometimes these EMM go weird and the timing is wildly incorrect and jumps around as the engine cranks. So you get the occasional fire up but the timing never stabilizes. If it backfires, stop trying to start it, backfire can blow the plastic exhaust resonators apart, and that is no fun to fix.

    For the flywheel timing, remove the CPS sensor from the top of flywheel housing. Remove the front fuel injector and move it aside just enough that you can insert a small wood stick or dial gauge. Rotate the engine using the driveshaft coupler to position front piston at TDC. You should see a group of three closely spaced timing ribs through the CPS sensor hole.

    If not, the flywheel may have sheared the woodruff key and be way out of time.
    Last edited by K447; 04-24-2021 at 06:52 PM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc_rider08 View Post
    Trying to upload video but not sure how.
    Must upload video to YouTube or another service. Then link to it here.

    No direct video upload to GH.

    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome.

    Given the diagnostics you have done so far, my initial guess is the either the flywheel has rotated out of time on the crank front.

    Or the EMM has an internal failure. Sometimes these EMM go weird and the timing is wildly incorrect and jumps around as the engine cranks. So you get the occasional fire up but the timing never stabilizes. If it backfires, stop trying to start it, backfire can blow the plastic exhaust resonators apart, and that is no fun to fix.

    For the flywheel timing, remove the COS sensor from the top of flywheel housing. Remove the front fuel injector and move it aside just enough that you can insert a small wood stick or dial gauge. Rotate the engine using the driveshaft coupler to position front piston at TDC. You should see a group of three closely spaced timing ribs through the CPS sensor hole.

    If not, the flywheel may have sheared the woodruff key and be way out of time.
    I did read there is a place I can send the EMM off to and have that checked so that might be happening. I first want to check everything else before I send it away.

    The stator readings- with their being no ohm readings across the last 3 sets where it should be between .3-.5 ohms is that an issue or what does it mean when its not reading anything? I will go check for the timing ribs and report back.

  6. #6

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc_rider08 View Post
    I just see a single photo.
    Fuel hoses clamped flat, rear fuel injector disconnected.

    Tip: Those fuel hoses look original and rather aged. I would be replacing all of them as part of refreshing it for use on the water.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc_rider08 View Post
    I did read there is a place I can send the EMM off to and have that checked so that might be happening. I first want to check everything else before I send it away.

    The stator readings- with their being no ohm readings across the last 3 sets where it should be between .3-.5 ohms is that an issue or what does it mean when its not reading anything? I will go check for the timing ribs and report back.
    Since you measured AC voltages that were not wildly far out of the expected ranges, my guess is your meter may not be very accurate on volts or ohms.

    Measuring 0.0 ohms on the meter suggests the meter sees the connection but cannot resolve the low apparent ohms between the probes into a non-zero display reading.

    Measuring between various stator pins and engine ground, the meter may read some really high ohm value if your fingers are touching the meter probes.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I just see a single photo.
    Fuel hoses clamped flat, rear fuel injector disconnected.

    Tip: Those fuel hoses look original and rather aged. I would be replacing all of them as part of refreshing it for use on the water.
    my bad, im still trying to figure this stuff out. lol video should be there now and the hole thing is a mess. lol it showed up to my shop in pieces. fuel hoses will get replaced once we know it runs.

    i went searching for the timing marks. but i didnt see anything. also not exactly sure i know what im looking for. i spun it by hand watching the entire time and never seen any timing marks. this was at TDC on the front cyclinder

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    It is not entirely certain to me that the flywheel visible through the CPS port is a Polaris Ficht flywheel

    The ribs look odd somehow. I could be wrong, of course.

    Here is what a genuine Polaris Ficht flywheel looks like.
    12 magnet version?


    Six magnet flywheel
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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