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  1. #1

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    New user, 1999SLH resurrection!

    Hey all, am currently in the process of getting my 99 SLH back running.
    Im new to this ski, ski's in general. Motorbikes have been my thing until now ...
    I thought it was all good to go... until i got to the water today.
    So i have used WSM carb kits, rebuilt the 2 Keihin carbs, freed up and lubricated the steering, rebuilt the jet drive with a rebuilt kit, rewired everything as the last owner decided to pull it all apart, i rebuilt the trim motor system, all good. Compression is 150 ish on both cylinders.

    Its been firing up with no problems on the hose pipe, so i thought lets take it down to the water today and see if it goes.

    Fired it up on the trailer, no problem. Backed the ski into the water... died. Then wouldn't start. Dragged it out of the water, got it started. The minute i pulled it into the water, it cuts out.

    It feels like fuel to me. I think the issue here is, there's enough fuel to spin it up but once the jet drive has load on it, ie its in the water, there's not enough fuel to keep the engine going.

    On facebook its mentioned that i should have a fuel restrictor in the return line, but i haven't noticed one. The ski is in the storage at the moment so i cant go and check, but do all polaris ski's have this restrictor?

    Cheers! Hoping to learn as much as I can and pass on the knowledge.

    Kev


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    If you have not already, you want to click this useful link.
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    And this link.


    Idle speed out of the water needs to be about double the in-water specified idle RPM. Set it on the high side out of the water, say nearly 3000 RPM. Once you get it running in-water you can dial down the idle RPM and tweak the low mixture setting =, if needed.

    Be sure to start off with factory carb settings, or really close.

    Also, check that the engine really is running on both cylinders. If one cylinder is running warmer than the other, or one is does not warm up in-water, then something is not working properly on the cool cylinder.

  3. #3

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    Hi K447, thanks for the reply.

    Yep i have have a look through that site, has been quite helpful.

    With regards to the idle, yeah ill turn that up a bit, however even if i was raising the engine speed via the throttle to say 3/4000 rpm then slowly dropping the ski into the water, it would still struggle to run and cut out.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome.

    If you have not already, you want to click this useful link.
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    And this link.


    ...

    Also, check that the engine really is running on both cylinders. ...
    Quote Originally Posted by KevAmiga View Post
    ... that site ...

    ... 3/4000 rpm then slowly dropping the ski into the water, it would still struggle to run and cut out.
    There are two separate web links there.

    Check whether both cylinders are firing/running so equally warm. And the carb adjustment is correct.

  5. #5

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    Will check it with a infra red thermometer tomorrow, see what temps im getting on the cylinders. They were both warm, thats for sure, but ill be more accurate.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevAmiga View Post
    Will check it with a infra red thermometer tomorrow, see what temps im getting on the cylinders. They were both warm, thats for sure, but ill be more accurate.
    On trailer check first, then again in-water.

    Usually a cylinder that is not running (or running very weakly) is very noticeably less warm than the other, easily discernible with hand touch.

    Do you have a tachometer to monitor engine RPM?
    Or a working MFD dash display? The MFD can show RPM in digital form.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    On trailer check first, then again in-water.

    Usually a cylinder that is not running (or running very weakly) is very noticeably less warm than the other, easily discernible with hand touch.

    Do you have a tachometer to monitor engine RPM?
    Or a working MFD dash display? The MFD can show RPM in digital form.
    I have both. But the MFD is working and displaying engine RPM. The only thing I can see not working correctly right now is fuel level, but I have a new float to fit. Checking the link above, I have a flashing red light and FUEL on the MFD even though the tank is 3/4 full.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevAmiga View Post
    ... The only thing I can see not working correctly right now is fuel level, but I have a new float to fit.

    Checking the link above, I have a flashing red light and FUEL on the MFD even though the tank is 3/4 full.
    Hmmm, I forget whether some models might be bothered by a low fuel or oil level

    Until you get the fuel level float replaced, you can disconnect the fuel sender wire inside the electrical box. Just disconnect and tape it aside. The MFD will stop complaining and just show no bars for fuel level.

    Same method can be used for disconnecting oil level sender if that is warning Low Oil.

    Pink wire = Fuel level sender
    Blue wire = Oil level sender

  9. #9

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    Yeah, i disconnected the fuel warning today but according to the service manual this model doesnt have a low fuel cut off. I have been fiddling about with the float unit, but im getting stupidly high resistance readings so something isnt right there, but that can wait for another day.

    When i got the ski, the last owner had painted the carbs, and it was dreadful, so i ordered 2 carb rebuild kits. I have replaced the bits i needed but i think there's a piece missing.

    Inside the pump unit, I think im missing a gasket. Fortunatly, theres another polaris ski here with the same carb (single though, not a twin like mine) that i can use for some sort of reference.



    When i stripped the carb, there was no rubber gasket in here, just the diaphragm piece and the outer rubber. I thought this was odd, but as the rebuild kit also didnt contain this piece i didnt think too much about it. However, the other polaris ski has a rubber gasket in here that covers the 2 holes, kinda reminds me of mickey mouse.

    My thought is, this part is held together with security torx screws. Is it not meant to be taken apart with a carb rebuilt? If this needs a rubber gasket, as i think it does, not sure where i can get one...

    Thanks

    Kev
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  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    Correct, there should be an o-ring style gasket that fits into that grove.

    The single carb is identical as far as fuel pump, as to the carb you are working on.Your other carb doesnt have a fuel pump.
    That is why a "carb rebuild" kit will work on either carb. A fuel pump "gasket set" is what you need to service the fuel pump.
    Some aftermarket kits might be called "complete kits" and have the pump seals.

    You could look up Polaris parts here; https://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp
    2200686 KIT,GASKET(FUELPUMP) Might get lucky finding factory parts.

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