DIY oil changes, Is it really worth it?

[Norm37]

Hi guys, I was just curious as to how many of you do your own oil change. Cost wise is it really that more economic than at the dealer? I want to get to know my machine and was wondering where I can purchase filters and o-rings at a reasonable price. When doing my own maintanance what do I need to lookout for and purchase and after how many hours do I do this.mthanks again for your input.

P.S. last time I took it to the dealer it cost me over 300$. What exactly do they do that I could do myself?

[SplishSplash]

Yes, do it yourself. You will need a oil extraction pump tool of some sort though.
There is a tread in the How Too's section describing exactly how to change your own oil.

[jpt7779]

I have done all my own maintenance since 2005 and is FAR cheaper and you know it will be done correctly.

Oil filter $12, O-rings $8, 4 quarts of oil (which you will typically only use 3.5qts) $32, spark plugs $3.00 each total of $61. Just use the parts store link above for the filters and o-rings. You can get the plugs at O Reilly's Auto parts or use the link listed. I personally use Amsoil 10w-40. You will need a fluid extractor to remove the oil.

$60-70 max by doing it your self or pay the man, your choice.

[ptscon]

So easy a caveman could do it. Really. If you have the skill to pump air into your car tires you can do this.

You can do it for like $35 USD. Filter ≈$15, 4 quarts of Castrol Motorcycle (these now have official JASO MA2 rating on the bottle) oil ≈$20.

Cheapo extractor is like $15-20

I never touch the orings, why bother unless they're leaking.

[Xspook]

I've never had the dealer change my oil. I've heard of people getting charged $200-ish for that service. Crazy.

DIY and even if you use OEM (I do), you're still under $100.

I change my oil/filter and spark plugs every 50 hours. I ride about 80 hours per year.

I sold a ski last year with 350 hours that was running perfect.

[nmpeter]

it's all good until....

your drop the oil filter bolt and it vanishes under the engine
you cross thread a spark plug, or break one off in the head
you don't check the oil filter at the engine startup to assure it is not leaking when you nicked an o-ring trying to get the cover loose
you spill oil all over your driveway cause you get sloppy pouring it into a disposal jug
you slice your arm on THAT clamp on the kawasaki 15-f fuel rail
Kawasaki oil filter refuses to come loose
you don't get that new plug gaps need to be set


and then the biggest f-up of them all?

you complain that I charge for oil disposal and start crying that oil is cheaper at walmart and filters are cheaper on amazon as you try to convince me to work on your $12,000 ski being towed by a $30,000 pickup while your girlfriend is jiggling her 6k boob job in my face

that's when you get shown the gate, and I offer to take your gf to lunch

calculate the cost of your time and then ask yourself "do I really want to do this?"

I do this for a living, there's a difference.

You drop that filter bolt and lose an entire week of prime riding that dealer or local shop charge is going to start looking pretty attractive

I had a guy that comes around looking for used parts now and then call me and offer me $50 for "any oil filter bolt" once. He dropped his into the hole and spent an entire day trying to retrieve it and neither of the states two dealers had one in stock ( I found that so hard to believe I actually called both of them) He lost the entire weekend riding as I told him to bring it in on a monday and I'd use my inspection camera to try to spot it and if I was able to fish it out he'd have to pay me half the going shop rate. I did and he gladly payed the $60, and at the end of the season he actually asked me to winterize the ski and change the oil

It doesn't take a whole lot of skill to do the basic services. Staying focused is the skill that is hard to develop. Mistakes negate any savings instantly.

Leave your phone in the house and get to work!

[ptscon]

^ holy fear mongering dude!

[nmpeter]

"shit happens"

I was talking about this with a buddy of mine this week that works on big boats and he told me, "Pete the reason you're a know it all is that you've seen most of it, and have heard about the rest of it"

Staying focused is 90% of the battle

[Norm37]

About using full Synthetic Oil. Here’s what I read on the watercraft journal....BRP insists on using a synthetic blend, which means a blend of mineral oil (conventional or crude) and synthetic base oil. Due to their unique tight-knit molecular bond, synthetics allow for lower viscosity grades like 0W-20, ideal to improve fuel economy. The problem is that these lower viscosity oils don’t wick or dissipate heat like heavier, conventional-based oils. Equally, synthetic oils are far “slicker” than crude/mineral oils. Normally, this attribute is preferred among oils, but for Sea-Doo, the slicker oil permits too much slippage between the supercharger clutches and can quickly burn up these sensitive components. Your thaughts?

[canuck]

About using full Synthetic Oil. Here’s what I read on the watercraft journal....BRP insists on using a synthetic blend, which means a blend of mineral oil (conventional or crude) and synthetic base oil. Due to their unique tight-knit molecular bond, synthetics allow for lower viscosity grades like 0W-20, ideal to improve fuel economy. The problem is that these lower viscosity oils don’t wick or dissipate heat like heavier, conventional-based oils. Equally, synthetic oils are far “slicker” than crude/mineral oils. Normally, this attribute is preferred among oils, but for Sea-Doo, the slicker oil permits too much slippage between the supercharger clutches and can quickly burn up these sensitive components. Your thaughts?

You can get motorcycle engine oil that is full synthetic and is used in a wet clutch application without any problems. A supercharged Rotax engine can use any oil, synthetic or not, as long as it has the correct viscosity and has the JASO rating for wet clutches.