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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by ptscon View Post
    ^ holy fear mongering dude!

    You ain't kidding...I'm scared to change the oil in my kawasaki now and I don't even have a kawasaki.

    That being said there are a lot of people that really shouldn't be changing their own oil. Plenty of youtube how to videos though.


  2. #12
    RiverRat71's Avatar
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    To me the ticket to changing the oil correctly & efficiently is 2 things. Following the service manual & having a good extractor. Those cheap red hand pump extractors suck & fight you all the way. One word, Mityvac. RR


  3. #13
    Norm37's Avatar
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    This one seems interesting also.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #14
    AllanK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm37 View Post
    About using full Synthetic Oil. Here’s what I read on the watercraft journal....BRP insists on using a synthetic blend, which means a blend of mineral oil (conventional or crude) and synthetic base oil. Due to their unique tight-knit molecular bond, synthetics allow for lower viscosity grades like 0W-20, ideal to improve fuel economy. The problem is that these lower viscosity oils don’t wick or dissipate heat like heavier, conventional-based oils. Equally, synthetic oils are far “slicker” than crude/mineral oils. Normally, this attribute is preferred among oils, but for Sea-Doo, the slicker oil permits too much slippage between the supercharger clutches and can quickly burn up these sensitive components. Your thaughts?
    Full synthetic oil, supercharger clutch washers after 120hrs, still look new. Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #15
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    You ain't kidding...I'm scared to change the oil in my kawasaki now and I don't even have a kawasaki.

    That being said there are a lot of people that really shouldn't be changing their own oil. Plenty of youtube how to videos though.

    I think that comment right there is the core of the issue ... it's introspective.
    I know on the surface, this thread-topic's question seems tangible .. aka parts, tools, patience, aptitude, difficulty, wisdom, etc... and while all those are important factors, they really boil-down to the individual's general mindset. As Pete mentioned, staying focused is a huge factor. I can tell you, when it comes to doing anything in life, if I view it as a "chore" -vs- an "adventure" can make all the difference! My philosophy, if you are thinking of tackling a job yourself, especially if it is somewhat outside your comfort-zone, you'll have to truly want it and own it. The task almost needs to interest you to the point you'll enjoy it. If not, it's going to be a chore, and we know chores are BORING! Your mind will wonder, likely not stay focused, and make costly mistakes.
    That all said, the OP (Norm37) desires both the potential to save money AND to get to know the PWC better. Which is the true driving-force here - then you won't need us to decide


  8. #16
    Norm37's Avatar
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    Well said Timebandit! I have the patience no doubt. Just looking for general advice and the right equipment to do the job right. Knowing how your machine runs can also be a fun learning process.

  9. #17
    mittens's Avatar
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    It always amazes me when people don't know how to change oil, its one thing for you to say, I am happy to pay, my time is not worth it.

    Its another to say you have no clue and scared to figure out how the maintain the machine you enjoy. my mind does not work like that.

    45 bucks for a 4qt, 1 filter, 1 disposable funnel Yamaha oil change kit - delivered.

    I personally like this little thing for skis. has cables to connect to battery, and a switch on top, hose in dip stick, hose in bottle, turn on. repeat till empty.
    https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-12-V.../dp/B0019LZTQ4


  10. #18
    Xspook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    There are a lot of people that really shouldn't be changing their own oil.
    Correct



    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    Plenty of youtube how to videos though.
    Here's the best one for SeaDoo's:


  11. #19
    Teufelhund's Avatar
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    Lol, you have nailed my mindset there! I’m a long time professional mechanic, turned truck driver. I can take a semi-truck apart and put it together, so it’s never been an issue of competence, rather the issue of time. Is it worth my time to spend about $150-200 to let my shop change my oil, vs me doing it on one of my maybe 2-3 days when I’m home?? Absolutely!! Can I do it?? Absolutely!! It’s all a matter of perspective I guess on what you are looking to accomplish. Me, I’m saving my home days for fun time!


  12. #20
    Team Bilford's Avatar
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    Synthetic is no "slicker" than mineral. You simply need to make sure the oil has no moly or other friction modifiers in it. Avoid oils with the API starburst containing "energy conserving" label. Most automobile oils will have it, almost none of the MC oils will have it. You have been provided a list of good motorcycle oils that are Jaso MA rated. If synthetics were a problem, why in the world would BRP put synthetic in their recommended blend product?

    Most of today's synthetics are class III oils which are simply more highly refined mineral base oils.

    I would recommend that you do your own oil changes with the OEM XPS 5w-40. You can then learn more about your ski and not get bogged down in the minutia of oil terminology and technology.

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