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  1. #11
    Ramps's Avatar
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    Yes for sure, you may even get a huge rebate lol, and it will not just wash off and also makes for a much easier cleaning.
    Give it a shot and I swear you will never go back to the commercial protectant.

  2. #12

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    Heh, just tried the olive oil trick on my new (to me) Trixx... it worked like a champ! Thanks for the tip!

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  4. #13
    Ramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhatHaveIDone View Post
    Heh, just tried the olive oil trick on my new (to me) Trixx... it worked like a champ! Thanks for the tip!
    Told you that stuff is awesome! Keep in touch if you need any more help or advice.

    Shane


  5. #14

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    Do you guys rub the whole machine down or just the black plastic?

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  7. #15

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  9. #16
    Ramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by guybb3 View Post
    Do you guys rub the whole machine down or just the black plastic?
    I usually stick to the body upper and lower, handle bar area but not for foot wells or seat and not you grips. Otherwise pile it on and you will love it. You can also do sides of foot wells.
    You might do a little on seat but just go light. My seat is 6yrs old and all salt water riding and I have know cracks or tears.

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  11. #17
    Ramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshwill101 View Post
    With the fiberglass backing made I now moved onto plastic welding using Polyvance repair strips.


    I've done some simple plastic welding before with mixed results but using these Polyvance strips and a hot air plastic welder I was very impressed at the strength of the bond, so much so that I was hesitant to continue the plan to use the fiberglass backing / rivet after but since I had it made already I did install it as well.


    Completed the majority of the plastic welding then installed the fiberglass backing with Permatax "Right Stuff" then rivets (not as many as Sea Doo lays out but given how well the hull welded I wasn't quite as concerned)


    The rivets were counter sunk in the hull and then I welded back over them. Again I highly recommend the Polyvance Strips and a hot air plastic welder (the flat iron type did not do well at all in comparison).



    So the ski is back together and waiting for warmer weather for some real sea trials.

    Bonus Pics, Piston (cracked) and Connecting Rod.
    Hey joshwill101, forgive me for not mentioning your good work in the fiber glass repair you made. I have seen some people say oh that's easy but when I saw the finished project, I though OMG. but I kept my mouth shut. So good work! Keep it up!

  12. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybb3 View Post
    Do you guys rub the whole machine down or just the black plastic?
    I did the entire thing minus the seat and bottom of the footwells (and grips of course). Looks great.

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  14. #19

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    "Ramps" Appreciate the comment! Fiberglass is just a messy material to work with and hard to get it to cooperate, not my strong suit for sure but I try...

    Thought I'd mention a few more items I've added to the Spark. Since I am into it for a reasonable amount I didn't mind spending a few extra on some of the Sea Doo accessories (which between us can seem a bit pricey for what you are getting).

    Added:
    Spark Mirrors
    Front storage compartment
    Some of the original decals back
    LINQ latch and LINQ 4.2gal cooler ($$$$ for what you get)
    Manual Reverse Kit installed (honestly more time consuming to install than I was expecting)
    Rear boarding step
    Spark Traction Mats (the real BRP ones are on sale for cheap now)

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #20

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    Josh - Looks great! And thanks for the tip on the OEM traction mats. Just purchased a set for $20!!

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