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  1. #1

    Need tips and help - Install of RIVA Pro-Series Engine Cooling Upgrade Kit an Fizzle

    Need tips and help - Install of RIVA Pro-Series Engine Cooling Upgrade Kit and Fizzle Y1000 Intercooler on SVHO engine in GP1800R 2020.

    https://rivaracing.com/i-24081641-ri...grade-kit.html

    What will be your tips, advices and helps doing this installation , of course following the instructions RY10081-ECUK-PC 2020+ .pdf

    Thank you

  2. #2
    mittens's Avatar
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    Put the hose on the Throttle body first, and then put intercooler in.

    I put a separate flush fitting (used of a old Yamaha ski) so works and lools like factory the T for this flush, is on the exit side of the intercooler. so when you flush it your always back flushing it too. to help clean it all out.


  3. #3
    ShawnInFL's Avatar
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    Removing the intake manifold obviously makes the Fizzle install much easier. When you install your vac line off the BOV, don't take the shortcut and tap/T the map sensor!! While you have the IM off, drill and tap for your BOV vac. Front or bow side of IM is my suggestion. Also, this is a great time to do the ribbon delete. If you haven't already deleted the ribbon/arrestor, definitely do it now! You also want to make sure you have upgraded your air intake. Riva Power Filter is very common. Of course you'll need a new tune that complements all of your new mods prior to using the ski again. I'm sure others will give their opinions, but maybe look at the Worx cooling upgrade. Not sure how far you intend on going with your build, but the Riva water kit might be overboard. The Worx is pretty easy, especially while you're doing the IC. Basically, just going to the anode, skipping the others.

    For getting the new water line from the strainer/inlet through the hull, I went through the center as shown in this photo. Keep in mind, I swapped out my factory exhaust when I did my IC. Again, others will have their fav spot for the hose. Good time to pickup some permatex ultra black, love the stuff! Many times you will see Riva refer to "below water line silicone", this is my choice. I always put painters tape on both sides of the hull before I drill, helps with chipping. Went outside in, came out very clean. Go slow with the drill, very little pressure is needed. Shop vac is handy inside the hull to reduce dust. Once completed, good idea to take a few spins close to the trailer with the seat off. Inspect your work for any leaks. Check that all your hose clamps are tight when you're done riding.

    Enjoy all the extra space you'll gain.



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    Last edited by ShawnInFL; 02-10-2021 at 11:13 AM.

  4. #4
    mittens's Avatar
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    Also helpful. Drill backwards for the first little bit, once the top layers are grinced through you can go back forward. and it leaves a clean non chipped hole. Tape can work too, but I have been usig the backwards thing for a long time on boats, gelcoat, and skis.

  5. #5
    ShawnInFL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mittens View Post
    Also helpful. Drill backwards for the first little bit, once the top layers are grinced through you can go back forward. and it leaves a clean non chipped hole. Tape can work too, but I have been usig the backwards thing for a long time on boats, gelcoat, and skis.
    Great point Mittens, forgot to mention! Learned that backwards trick the hard way many years ago installing car phones, alarms and stereos. The Alpine days (great times)!! Yup, for you young ones out there, at one point it was only car phones. No mobiles, no text, no internet even. All analog like the Star Ship Enterprise lol Hard to imagine, I know!! While putting screws into the carpet, if you didn't go backwards first, you were sure to see a lightning fast runner across the customers as the thread in the carpet wound up around the drill bit. OOPS!! Sorry about your interior lol

    Starting with smaller bits and working your way to the desired bit size is helpful too. Unless you're doing the rear thru-hull exhaust (large hole saw). The backwards rotation first is CRITICAL on that one and scary as hell, unless you just don't give a damn about your hull. Now would be a great time to do your exhaust and swap props too while you have the pump pulled. I'll admit defeat on getting that prop off. Nearly took the top off my bench and did break a tooth off my vise. You guessed it, harbor freight garbage. Couple of local mechanics even threw in the towel, that helped with the pride. Dealer said no guarantee, but they luckily got it to spin off for $50. Well worth it at that point in the build!

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  6. #6
    mittens's Avatar
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    I have attached a pic of my Current Cooling set up. Disregard the red. This set up so far had no Gas in oil, and I run in alabama heat. skis runs 9000 RPMs and 16.8 lbs of boost. kinda a mix of Worx, and Riva. I will say once turbo set up is done I will be watching my oil temps and if too warm will use one of the intercooler feeds, for it. which will also feed the engine with more as the old oil cooler feed will be gone. But hoping it all works the same.
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  7. #7
    ShawnInFL's Avatar
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    Dang, that makes it easy to understand. Nice job! That flush is on my list now. Only fresh water for me, but FL is shallow and sand is always a factor. My 2020 FX doesn't offer much for temps, just a warning when it's hot. Where are you getting your oil temp from (sensor). The PLX SM-PRO I use for boost offers temp option for water and oil. Would love to have some idea of oil temp as well. Engine temp would be great too. Didn't realize that the oil temp was a factor for gas in oil. Check the photo of the "fluid temp" sensor for the SM-PRO. Maybe I can make it happen?

  8. #8

    Need tips and help - Install of RIVA Pro-Series Engine Cooling Upgrade Kit an Fizzle

    Nice diagram. GIO seems to be more an issue of the engine temps not reaching optimal operating temperatures in cooler climates.

  9. #9
    mittens's Avatar
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    I have not had a issue so I don't know my oil temps. But was more meaning if I have a issue. I know some use temp gun on filter to at least have some reading to see delta changes. Not sure if that works or not as the can its self is touching the motor.

    would love to be able to see some engine data. I guess with Maptuner you can but with deans you cant. if only you could use deans tune and use maptuner to data log ha

  10. #10
    ShawnInFL's Avatar
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    Had GIO happen to me. Scared the crap out of me! Loss of power and a cloud of smoke out the back. Was middle of a warm and sunny day in FL, had been riding plenty. Motor was warm, not hot I'm sure. Just left from lunch/beer break on a days ride. Was cruising pretty good across chop. Thankfully was with a buddy. Turned ski off immediately and slow drag back to a ramp close by. Took it straight to Dean (lucky to live so close). He immediately reached over to the the Map sensor. Asked me what's up with this T? Told him BOV. That's why I try and mention to never do that as much as possible to folks. On the tow topic, I see you have a "tow valve #1" in your illustration Mittens. Is that just a ball valve you put it? Have heard can fill motor with water if going to long or too fast being towed. Also, did I miss valve #2?

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