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  1. #31
    I'm of course sorry and I'm from Russia. but what are you doing? you twist your hand when the candle is installed and show us that it stops, it is clear to the idiot that it stops, because there is compression. if you do not have enough strength to turn by hand, take the tool and turn the engine with the tool. after watching the first video, you don't have to look any further, your starter does not catch on the flywheel.

  2. #32

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    Hey Oleg! Yes, sometimes his starter bendix does not catch. You may have a point that the compression is stopping him from turning it over by hand, and the starter maybe to week to push it through the compression stroke, but he needs to somehow verify the sparkplug was not contacting the piston.

    Keep turning the motor by hand and slowly, turn by turn run the sparksplug down. One turn motor one turn sparksplug repeat. You could also put a pencil down the plug hole and when the piston is at top dead center and make a mark on the pencil for depth into the cylinder at TDC. Compare it to the mag end. Also what "myself" is talking about to try to determine how much rod play there is could be done with this pencil. I think he was talking about seeing the piston rock/play with the head off.

    Mark

  3. #33
    Oleg, no need to imply I'm an idiot. Now that you say it's the compression that is keeping me from turning it makes perfect sense. I appreciate everyone's help but no need for name calling.

  4. #34
    And Oleg, my ultimate question is why does it turn over with only the front plug in yet it doesn't turn over with only the rear plug in. Again, if it's obvious, I apologize for my lack of knowledge.

  5. #35
    And last thing, as some of the previous videos show, the starter is engaging the flywheel at least some of the time.

  6. #36
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I know you guys are having a time playing with this.

    so when are you going to try a new starter? That grinding bendix is a dead giveaway

    don't whine about money folks, you can get a short term test starter from amazon at practically wholesale

    as it turns out the engine does have major problems, you can get on with either parting or pouring some money on it to get it running again. A good running engine can provide good service life to the el cheapo starter motor

    to throw some more fuel on the "what is it" fire, you could have bad balance shaft bearing too. that's gear driven and maybe there is a broken tooth involved

    and some people wonder why I don't work on old two strokes anymore....

  7. #37
    I didn't call you an idiot. I use google translate, so the meaning of my messages is not conveyed correctly. your starter must always cling to the flywheel, it does not. and if it slips when there are no candles, it already follows that you have a problem. and you need to replace it. Do you understand how the starter hook is arranged on the flywheel?also I did not see the video where he rotates with a candle. let's call it all right. your engine does not jam, your starter motor does not engage the flywheel so it does not rotate.

  8. #38
    As stated several times the starter issue needs to be addressed first. If there is a higher load due to compression, the starter will be more likely to not engage fully and spin as we’re seeing in the videos, this will become worse as it wears, START THERE first. Keep in mind that I’m sure we are all just trying to help and NOT be mean or disrespectful, but you’re going way to far in for what seems like a starter issue first and foremost....meaning you’re over-thinking it.
    FWIW, my 93 XP runs 140psi compression, so your numbers seem fine to me.
    I also had a similar issue with mine last year (@myself was a huge, huge help, if he has any advice, follow it), but my issue was a bad battery, which I was reluctant to change because I thought it was good.

  9. #39

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    Ghebert probably has no compression in his cylinders now that he has had the head off. I don't think his starter is that bad since it turns it when he is testing his front cylinder - as he said. See if you can get a strap wrench on the output shaft when it locks up on the rear cylinder and see if you can get it through the compression stroke. If you can't do it that way no starter will help. Don't be throwing parts at his thing - even if its less than 50 bucks.


  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by AL_Mark View Post
    Ghebert probably has no compression in his cylinders now that he has had the head off. I don't think his starter is that bad since it turns it when he is testing his front cylinder - as he said. See if you can get a strap wrench on the output shaft when it locks up on the rear cylinder and see if you can get it through the compression stroke. If you can't do it that way no starter will help. Don't be throwing parts at his thing - even if its less than 50 bucks.
    Oleg, sorry about being sensitive, my wife was bitchin at me about spending too much time in the basement. Thanks for taking the time to use google translate to help out.

    I like this idea as a first step, I wasn’t sure how to try and turn it other than by hand but a strap wrench might work. I’ll also try this with just the front plug in. And I’ll get an compression reading on the front plug again.

    So assuming that I can’t turn it by hand when it is locked up, what does that mean?

    I don't mind throwing a few cheap fixes at this thing in hopes that I don't need an expensive fix: new crank/engine. If it turned out it was the wrong plug, I'd gladly let everyone know I am in fact an idiot and had used the wrong plug. I use NGK BR8ES.

    Regarding starters, I'm willing to try it. I have tried 2 starters in the ski, an OEM that I rebuilt a couple of years ago and a cheapo I have as a spare. Both engage outside of the ski using a battery. I’ll check into ordering one today.

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