Laser-Cut Powder Coated 1.8L Valve Cover

[ShawnInFL]

I'm looking to powder coat my 20 FX SVHO valve cover. Check the photo below. This is an example of Laser-Cutting post powder coating. The material in the photo is clearly aluminum. Not so sure about the 1.8L covers. Will be sanding the cover pretty good already to prep for paint. Like everybody else, I have plenty of "blimishes", for lack of a better term, in the cover. Is it possible to reach a shiny surface on these covers? I've read a few threads about folks coating them but didn't see what I was looking for in those threads.

Thanks in advance!

[FXSlowKroozer]

The newer valve covers come etch coated from Yamaha to prevent corrosion.You can strip them and polish them out but its going to rust in no time.We have stripped and hydrodipped them in Carbon fiber patterns and they always get chipped when doing engine maintenance then rust gets going under them and bubbles it all up.If you want something to last long term its gotta be thicker than automotive finishes so it doesnt get chipped easily.Powder coating is ideal or at the very least a thick oil based paint like Rustoleum that can easily be touched up works best

[ShawnInFL]

Thanks for the info. Will be powder coating for sure. The laser cut would be the cherry on top. I don't do salt but you make a great point about protecting the bare aluminum. Glad to hear it's just a coating over aluminum though, it gives the project hope at this point. Will post a pic after back from paint. The dip sounds really nice. However, like you, my dipped yeti stuff always flaked off. I since have moved to powder with laser cut. Figured why not look at it for the ski too.

[mittens]

My current ski svho is coated from factory.

my 2009 SHO was raw aluminum. And I got bored one day and used up some drimel polishing pads, and some aluminum polish from my bike. It tuned out ok.
but after a year or so it was not like that. Still looked good, but like dull wheels.

[ShawnInFL]

That looks so good! The upkeep, not so much lol Can't wait to see the turbo when you're done. Tick-Tock. It's getting warmer all the time down here in FL. I'm sure you're not too far behind us on the heat. Those beers aren't gonna drink themselves!

[mittens]

Thanks man. Yea your telling me. I do not have the TIg skills to do this job like I want... so at the mercy of others... but I am getting ancy… almost calling another welder/ fab shop to see where in line I can get for these 2 pipes... march I will be wanting the ski wet! ha

[Mr. GP1800]

Thanks for the info. Will be powder coating for sure. The laser cut would be the cherry on top. I don't do salt but you make a great point about protecting the bare aluminum. Glad to hear it's just a coating over aluminum though, it gives the project hope at this point. Will post a pic after back from paint. The dip sounds really nice. However, like you, my dipped yeti stuff always flaked off. I since have moved to powder with laser cut. Figured why not look at it for the ski too.

you could do a clear powder over any exposed bare aluminum

[ShawnInFL]

Nice didn't know there was such a thing. Torn over the laser cutting. Hmmmm Neighbor has cnc. Might just do a badge/plate and I go on top. Same neighbor has a laser cutter, but turns out his deck is too small to accommodate the valve cover.

[TimeBandit]

Hey, a lot of folks don't realize powder paints have come a long way. Just as many color variations and effects as regular automotive paints.

For aluminum parts, there's a special advantage, or should I say cool "effect" available. You can certainly sand and polish the cover and THEN get it powdered in a candy color - which is a semi-transparent color. Also, say you stop short of a full mirror polish, at 1000-1500 grit, you'll get a more dimensional-effect when light travels thru the paint color and refracts off the aluminum grit contours - neat. The cover in your example pic illustrates this a little - however it seems more a full-polish underneath.

Keep in-mind, while powder coats are thicker and more durable, they can still chip and peal away like a "skin" ... its almost like covering your parts in shrink-wrap plastic.
Also ask if the power is suitable for engine use, as the temperatures can weaken, and in some cases over-cure the paint over time - say blemishes, color-shifts, and dry-cracking.
Name brand powders over the knock-offs ... you get the idea. Prep the surface CLEAN - no etching polishes or wax residues is a must !

[ShawnInFL]

Printing this as I type. Will be riding skis this weekend with the powder painter. She's pretty dang good so I bet this will all make sense. Has a huge shop. Have a great one!