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  1. #1

    1996 polaris hurricane non update ski, can not solve problem? Boggy

    I have a 1996 polaris hurricane all non update electronics. Stator went out so I found a non updated stator and replaced it. Now the ski will not go over 40mph and really lacks power. Fires up and idles like a champ but once you get on the throttle it sputters. Got the cdi tested and checks good. Spark at both cylinders. Compression tested good. I can not find a non updated stator to swap it out and I can not find a total update electronic kit. Ski is in very good condition so it's worth fixing. Any ideas on what I should check next? Or where I can find a non updated stator to try?

  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    Did you verify timing?


  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    Did you verify timing?

    No I have all the equipment but I could not figure out what the timing should be. Is the timing suppose to be 0 or 12 degrees when idling? Any suggestions on how to check the timing and what it should be?

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
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    Timing should be 20deg at 3000 rpm.

    Idle out of the water might be around 2500.

    At the top of the "stator housing" (bolted to the front of the engine) should be a large plastic nut/plug.
    The center of that hole should have an arrow or line of some sort, with engine running and timing light on front cylinder, the timing will be viewed dirrectly from above. Might have to mark the flywheel to see it clearly.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    Timing should be 20deg at 3000 rpm.

    Idle out of the water might be around 2500.

    At the top of the "stator housing" (bolted to the front of the engine) should be a large plastic nut/plug.
    The center of that hole should have an arrow or line of some sort, with engine running and timing light on front cylinder, the timing will be viewed dirrectly from above. Might have to mark the flywheel to see it clearly.



    Ok perfect, I tried to do that but was a little lost on what it should read at idle. Ok so if I pull the flywheel and mark the 20 degree mark with a marker. The timing should read 20 degrees at 3000 rpm with a timing light?

    Is it 20 degrees to the left or right of zero?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Don't pull the flywheel if you do not have to. The flywheel marks can be cleaned up and highlighted in place.

    If you have to remove the flwheel cover be careful to not lose the spring and washer for the Bendix front bushing.

    The flywheel should have a woodruff key to align it, but it is actually held in place by the red loctite on the smooth taper and the torque of the flywheel nut. The woodruff key is not there to resist engine torque during operation.

    It is not unusual for the flywheel to need a HUGE amount of puller force to break it loose. Hence leaving it in place if it does not have to come off.

    Some of us use a very strout puller tool as it is easy to bend/break an inexpensive flywheel puller. Every Polaris flywheel is not superman hard to remove, but a lot are.

    If you must remove the flywheel leave the big nut threaded in place just a couple of turns loose. That wiill prevent the flywheel from going into orbit when it breaks free.

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigbob999 View Post
    Ok perfect, I tried to do that but was a little lost on what it should read at idle. Ok so if I pull the flywheel and mark the 20 degree mark with a marker. The timing should read 20 degrees at 3000 rpm with a timing light?

    Is it 20 degrees to the left or right of zero?
    With the plug removed from the stator housing you will have like a 1/2 inch hole. No need to remove the flywheel or cover again.
    If needed, you should be able to mark it with a fine tip marker.

    You could turn the engine at the driveshaft coupler while watching for timing marks on the flywheel.
    I beleive its to the left of 0deg when viewed from the rear of engine , IIRC

    If timing needs to be adjusted the cover needs to be removed. The 2 small screws on the front of flywheel hold the timing ring.
    Usually if those screws were not moved, timing shouldnt need adjustment with stator replacement. BUT now that these are over 20 years old, ANYTHING is possible and suspect.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    With the plug removed from the stator housing you will have like a 1/2 inch hole. No need to remove the flywheel or cover again.
    If needed, you should be able to mark it with a fine tip marker.

    You could turn the engine at the driveshaft coupler while watching for timing marks on the flywheel.
    I beleive its to the left of 0deg when viewed from the rear of engine , IIRC

    If timing needs to be adjusted the cover needs to be removed. The 2 small screws on the front of flywheel hold the timing ring.
    Usually if those screws were not moved, timing shouldnt need adjustment with stator replacement. BUT now that these are over 20 years old, ANYTHING is possible and suspect.
    Thanks, I will check timing this week sometime and update this thread

  9. #9
    I like Boobs. wetwolf's Avatar
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    What is "good" compression

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