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Thread: 96 slt700 no spark
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01-15-2021, 08:19 PM #11
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Ok i will put one together and see how it goes although I think I really need a new cdi and as i probably won't find one then i guess my only long term option would be to do the full ignition upgrade kit. Are these still available and where would be the best place to get one?
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01-16-2021, 10:26 AM #12
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01-16-2021, 10:32 AM #13
Sorry, No CDI or "update kits" available last time I checked.
I'm guessing there are delays caused by the World wide pandemic.
From your description it sounds as if the internal regulator failed inside the CDI, buts sounds as if the other circuits are intact.
In my opinion you have a perfect candidate for the external repair.
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01-16-2021, 10:53 AM #14
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Last I heard that division of PVL had gone into bankruptcy or had ceased production of those old-school CDI ignition products. I have not verified whether this is accurate.
Apparently a few vendors (SBT, Marto?) had purchased some bulk inventory Polaris CDI from PVL, but when those are sold out, that may be the end of the supply.
I have not verified the current status of PVL regarding these CDI nor which vendors may still have CDI supply.Last edited by K447; 01-16-2021 at 12:03 PM.
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01-18-2021, 02:22 AM #15
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Ok so i built that voltage regulator and test run it, ski ran on the first test run (around1-2min) but after that would only put out around 4.9v so no spark. I put the 9v battery back on and ran ski for a few minutes to warm up and seemed to run well however if I shut it down by pushing the stop button or pulling the lanyard it then won't start again until I disconnect and reconnect battery. It will crank but won't fire
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01-18-2021, 09:49 AM #16
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With the alternate 8 volt regulator installed, did you connect it to the Brown wire going to the stator AND the Brown wire going back to the CDI? Try the regulator with the CDI Brown wire entirely disconnected.
Also, when you get the weakened voltage at Brown to the stator, check the voltage on Orange. If the LR module Orange wire output becomes weak then the CDI cannot function.
Note: CDI itself needs at least 10.5 volts (absolute minimum) on the Red/Purple wire going into the CDI to fire the ignition and you really want to have more than that minimum.
There is a service bulletin regarding no-warm-restart. Some CDI have this problem, where the CDI will not fire after engine shut down. Attempts to restart the engine shortly after engine stop will have no spark. If you wait a few minutes, the CDI works just fine and engine starts. If you disconnect the battery and reconnect, the CDI resets and can start the engine right away.
Follow my signature link to find the details on changing the CDI power feed to the Orange wire, which corr3cts the no-warm-restart problem. Note that this fix requires the LR module to be working properly.
http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do
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01-19-2021, 12:47 AM #17
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Thanks for all your help i will test the orange terminal to make sure it has power when cranking and running then change cdi power to there. I have ordered a proper adjustable dc/dc step down converter so hopefully that will get me a reliable 8v for the stator wire.
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01-19-2021, 10:20 AM #18
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01-19-2021, 01:01 PM #19
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I made up one of those voltage regulators but it didnt last long then would only put out around 5v. Maybe the regulator I got was faulty.
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01-19-2021, 01:19 PM #20
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Was it powered by the Orange wire LR output? If the Orange output voltage from the LR module goes weak the voltage regulator output will also sag.
I suppose it is possible the stator Hall Effect sensors could be failing when they warm up and demanding more current. Have not seen that before though
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