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  1. #1

    Question Bench test 1100 for spark, starter relay

    Hi All, rebuilding a 1997 Yamaha Exciter 220. Been posting over at (https://yamahajetboaters.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=224).

    I have both motors out of the boat, took them apart, cleaned them up, new gaskets, compression test, inspection, etc.. Waiting on some carbs though but intake manifolds are on. Exhaust manifolds on but didn't plan on hooking up exhaust yet as waiting for some seals and stuff.

    The boat itself, the wiring is all uncertain and beat up a bit so I'd like to test the engines for basic functionality like spark, starter relay and stuff before popping them back in the boat.

    Looks like 8 wires going into the engine/CDI. From the wiring diagram looks like I'd jumper white/black, that would bypass safety interlocks, plug in temp sensor( or jump pink/black), then apply 12 volts to red/yellow and 12 volt main. Ground to block somewhere.

    Starter solenoid test would be 12 volts to brown or bypass starter solenoid by jumping directly to the starter.

    Going to do one plug at a time and make sure plug is grounded and look for spark.

    Sound about right? or am I missing something?

    If I do get spark, would it be incredibly crazy put plugs in and to spray a tiny bit of starter fluid into intake manifold to see if I get some pop pop pops?
    Last edited by mark76; 01-08-2021 at 08:02 AM.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Don't jumper black to white if you want it to spark.

    Make sure it's bolted down and wear earplugs.

    YJB isn't my website.

  3. #3
    Thanks Steve, I updated my post..

  4. #4

    Engine one starts!

    Hi All, continuing on with the 97 Yamaha Exciter Project. Got Both engines back together after cleaning them up. Both engines were pretty much half filled with water. carbs were flooded and rusty.

    On Port engine, I jumped red/pink to 12v, red from red/brown connector, not sure what pink is yet but it's not the thermal switch and not sure I needed to have it jumped since thermal switch goes right into the CDI box wiring area, I kept it hooked up anyway.

    Tested for spark the other day and ended up having no spark on CDI cylinder. Everything tested okay so pulled a spark plug boot on starboard engine, well, actually 2 because first one, the wire was so mushy, it twisted off in the boot, 2nd one came out okay.. I've ordered a new set of NGK TB05EMA boots for the starboard engine but will see how they work before ordering for the port engine. Ended up with spark on all 3 plugs

    Dug into the fuel tank today and pumped out about 3 gallons of orange/brown liquid.. Need to dig into it more as it's got a lot of junk in there.

    I installed the U part of the exhaust on port engine, just to get the smoke away from me, and brought the engine out to the driveway, tied down to my garden wagon, hooked it up the a battery, poured in maybe a teaspoon of TruFuel (50:1 2 stroke mix) into each carb and cranked it over.. Couple of pops.. Added another teaspoon of TruFuel to each carb and it started up with a few pops and the started to idle until it ran out of fuel.

    Pretty excited to go from rusted out, filled with water to at least starting. A few more parts for starboard engine and then going to test that the same way. I plan on rewiring and putting new connectors on both engines because after 23 years, they are pretty hacked..

    You can see my pics/videos here, they go from oldest to newest:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/m2J2E65buRNHCUSP7

  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    Very good!


  6. #6
    And Starboard engines runs. Was curious about needing the pink wire from CDI area as it seems to be part of charge circuit, it's not needed, just red from ignition to CDI, 12 volt red main power to starter solenoid to battery, tap brown from ignition to battery positive to engage starter..

    This engine started out with 3 water filled rusted carbs and very rusted reed valve assemblies. Took apart everything and soaked in Evapo-Rust and Carb cleaner. Reassembled reed valves and the carbs, with rebuild kits, and got some action out of them

    This is all just testing so that I know that the engines fire up before going back in the boat.

    I replaced the old Yamaha plug boots with NGK TB05EMA boots and tested for spark before starting, they give a nice click when you push them on the plug, they seem to work okay!

    I may rig up a cooling setup so I can run the hose on them and tune outside the boat after I rebuild the exhaust pipes but have to figure out a safe way to feed them fuel instead of out of a jug.

    Anyway, three videos of it firing up, first pop always scares the crap outta me:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/m2J2E65buRNHCUSP7
    Last edited by mark76; 01-20-2021 at 05:26 PM.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    Pink wire is for the fuel gauge.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Pink wire is for the fuel gauge.
    Thanks Steve! I noticed that some write-ups about fuel sending units have 3 wires, mine only has two, red and black. Is the pink power to fuel gauge?

  9. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    The factory setup only had two wires, pink & black. Reading in Full position is 32 Ω, Empty position is 250 Ω.

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