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  1. #1

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    Msx 150 motor swap time

    Hi Guys, I have a customer that wants a price to swap out a 150 motor. The new one is a rebuilt long block so everything would have to be swapped over to that motor. I have done several 140s and other skis but never a 150 so I have no idea how much time it would take. So if someone could give me an idea of the hours it would be great. I know it will take longer than anyone suggests seeing its the first one,but it will at least give me an idea. Thanks a bunch


  2. #2
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    If you run a shop and have skills and tools, Iíd say you could have the motor pulled, swap everything to the replacement long block, and reinstalled in about 6 hours if you kept at it. That is assuming the block already has the head installed, and is a true long block. Iíve done it a few times, but Iím also not a real mechanic, and I believe I typically get it done in about 4 hours. The Milwaukee battery ratchet driver is your friend for this job.



    Quote Originally Posted by car22car View Post
    Hi Guys, I have a customer that wants a price to swap out a 150 motor. The new one is a rebuilt long block so everything would have to be swapped over to that motor. I have done several 140s and other skis but never a 150 so I have no idea how much time it would take. So if someone could give me an idea of the hours it would be great. I know it will take longer than anyone suggests seeing its the first one,but it will at least give me an idea. Thanks a bunch

  3. #3
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
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    If you take on the job, let us know and I’ll make a suggestions list of tools to have on hand and what you might need to know to make it easier instead of stumbling through learning as you go.

  4. #4

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    Thanks so much for your response. I had told him 5 to 800.00 because I wasn't sure. But I can maybe come closer with your estimate. If I get the Job I will let you know and would appreciate your help. I'm just a one man show. Retired and doing this cause I love it. I don't have all the specialized tools for this particular motor so I will have to get what ever is needed. Thanks again.

  5. #5

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    I estimate approx 8-12 hours to remove the engine, clean all the gasket surfaces & corroded bolts, swap all the parts onto the longblock, install the engine, then clean up all the oil & anti-freeze on the shop floor, and then water test it. But I'm old & slow, so you guys might be a lot faster than me? Tell me what you think? Mike? Zach, Richard, etc....

    Happy Holidays to everybody!!!

    Best regards,
    Randy

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  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ye Ol Salty Dog View Post
    If you take on the job, let us know and I’ll make a suggestions list of tools to have on hand and what you might need to know to make it easier instead of stumbling through learning as you go.
    well I got the job changing out the msx 150 motor so any and all help will be appreciated to make this project easier. It will be the first one I have done. But there needs to be a first for everything. Going to start next week so looking forward to a new experience. I am sure I will have alot of questions, but thats how we all learn I guess. Any one else that would like to chime in feel free to do so. Any info is always useful no matter what it my be. Feel free to pm me if you would like. Thanks All.

  8. #7

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    Thanks Randy. Will let you know how long it takes me. First time will be the longest.

  9. #8
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    If you don’t already have a copy of the factory service manual get one and read through the engine removal procedure. The best advice I can give is to have a long 5mm ball end hex wrench for a 3/8 drive ratchet. Makes getting the intake manifold bolts off really easy. That’s really about the worst part of removing the engine.

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  11. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. GP1800 View Post
    If you don’t already have a copy of the factory service manual get one and read through the engine removal procedure. The best advice I can give is to have a long 5mm ball end hex wrench for a 3/8 drive ratchet. Makes getting the intake manifold bolts off really easy. That’s really about the worst part of removing the engine.
    Thanks I do have the manual and have been reading it.Just looking for suggestions on making it easier. I will get that hex wrench. Thanks.

  12. #10

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    I found this in the archives from a GH Member;

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=234063

    Strap the intercooler up on top of fuel tank in the hull. Leave the heat exchanger (plus lower mount), intake manifold, coolant jug, exhaust/turbo manifold off.

    The PTO plate/coupler, rear engine mount, oil tanks can all go on.
    The front mag/stator, IC mount, oil cooler, volt reg can all go on.

    Make sure you put the driveshaft in (if ever removed)... you did rebuild the driveshaft bearing/seals on the Through-hull carrier, right? Do it now while the engine is out. Put all that back in before putting the engine back in.

    Put the waterbox and resonator in the hull before the engine too.

    With hoist... lower engine... tipped far to the left side to tuck in the left-side engine cradle mounts in the seat hole... then lower and get right-side in the hole... then level and position over mounts. Be careful not to lower the engines weight onto the driveshaft coupler.

    Rotate engine so exhaust studs face more rearward... then slide the exhaust/turbo manifold on the studs (don't forget gaskets). Rotate back into position. Lower on to mounts. You can lift the right side up a tad to make getting the lower heat exchanger bracket on easier. It's a PITA. Then put in the heat exchanger (don't forget rubber cushion strips on the xchanger mount) and fanagle the intake manifold into place (big PITA). Don't loose the o-rings out of the intake manifold runners (where it bolts to head). Getting all the pieces to line up and the heat exchanger long bolt in to clamp intake mani to lower heat exchanger bracket is a challenge. But it will all go together.

    That's the main part... rest is plumbing, lots of hose clamps, electrical, and sitting the IC back into place.

    Good luck!

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