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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Weber Guy View Post
    I found this in the archives from a GH Member;

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=234063

    Strap the intercooler up on top of fuel tank in the hull. Leave the heat exchanger (plus lower mount), intake manifold, coolant jug, exhaust/turbo manifold off.

    The PTO plate/coupler, rear engine mount, oil tanks can all go on.
    The front mag/stator, IC mount, oil cooler, volt reg can all go on.

    Make sure you put the driveshaft in (if ever removed)... you did rebuild the driveshaft bearing/seals on the Through-hull carrier, right? Do it now while the engine is out. Put all that back in before putting the engine back in.

    Put the waterbox and resonator in the hull before the engine too.

    With hoist... lower engine... tipped far to the left side to tuck in the left-side engine cradle mounts in the seat hole... then lower and get right-side in the hole... then level and position over mounts. Be careful not to lower the engines weight onto the driveshaft coupler.

    Rotate engine so exhaust studs face more rearward... then slide the exhaust/turbo manifold on the studs (don't forget gaskets). Rotate back into position. Lower on to mounts. You can lift the right side up a tad to make getting the lower heat exchanger bracket on easier. It's a PITA. Then put in the heat exchanger (don't forget rubber cushion strips on the xchanger mount) and fanagle the intake manifold into place (big PITA). Don't loose the o-rings out of the intake manifold runners (where it bolts to head). Getting all the pieces to line up and the heat exchanger long bolt in to clamp intake mani to lower heat exchanger bracket is a challenge. But it will all go together.

    That's the main part... rest is plumbing, lots of hose clamps, electrical, and sitting the IC back into place.

    Good luck!
    Thanks Randy . Any help is sure Appreciated. What should the compression run on these motors and how low before they need rebuilding.

  2. #12
    Postie1686's Avatar
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    Jul 2020
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    Saint Paul, MN
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    If you find yourself in need of help I’ve had the engines in and out of mine a couple times in the past year. Your not to far away so if your in a bind I could lend a hand. Also if you need any tools like the coupler tool I’ve got one you could rent if needed


  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Postie1686 View Post
    If you find yourself in need of help I’ve had the engines in and out of mine a couple times in the past year. Your not to far away so if your in a bind I could lend a hand. Also if you need any tools like the coupler tool I’ve got one you could rent if needed
    Thanks Pottsie for your offer. I will certainly look you up when needed

  4. #14
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
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    Jun 2015
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    Those bitch bolts on the intake are 6mm B

  5. #15
    I was low key hoping this was gonna be a 1.8 swap.

  6. #16

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    Jun 2014
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    MRSHFIELD WISCONSIN
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    I did get the motor changed out. It was a learning experience for sure. Next one should be easier. I do have a question for you guys tho. The ski fired up right away no problem. The lakes are froze so I hooked up a hose to the lake water inlet hose so I could run it for a bit. Shut it of and checked oil level which is good. A few days later I just fired it for 30 seconds so I could recheck the oil. The problem is the oil looks a little milky. Did I do something wrong or were could water be coming from. Don't want to start it again if it can have water in it. Thanks all for your help.

  7. #17
    radio-active's Avatar
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    Jeeeez that doesn't sound promising. What do you know about the replacement engine? Rebuilt by someone reputable? It's be a real bummer if you had to pull it again. Talk about losing money on a job.

  8. #18
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by car22car View Post
    I did get the motor changed out. It was a learning experience for sure. Next one should be easier. I do have a question for you guys tho. The ski fired up right away no problem. The lakes are froze so I hooked up a hose to the lake water inlet hose so I could run it for a bit. Shut it of and checked oil level which is good. A few days later I just fired it for 30 seconds so I could recheck the oil. The problem is the oil looks a little milky. Did I do something wrong or were could water be coming from. Don't want to start it again if it can have water in it. Thanks all for your help.

    Are you seeing some frothy gunk on the top of the oil tank (underside of dipstick cap)? Or full on milkshake oil on the dipstick?
    Sounds to me like you are just seeing condensation moisture in the oil tank... which is common. Especially if you were running really cold water "on the hose" with the engine and then it has sit in cold weather for a while. The little amounts of moisture should burn off after a good, full-temp, riding of the ski... when you do finally get it in the water. Still got ice here on my lake too.

    Cheers!

  9. #19
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
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    A little froth of water is to be expected on the top of the oil tank and dipstick after a rebuild. Soak the ski when can to run it. I have never ran a Weber off of a hose. There are too many things that could go wrong. Burnt THB seals, water intrusion via cyclone on oil tank, improper cooling for motor.

  10. #20

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    Jun 2014
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    Thanks Rip, you put my mind at ease. That is what it looks like. We got a week or two before the lakes open up here in wisconsin.Then I'll drop her in and see how she goes. Do you have a recommendation on breaking in the rings on these 4 strokes or same as all others? What should I be looking at for compression after they are sealed. 150? Thanks

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