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  1. #1

    New to me 07 Kawi Ultra 250 issues

    I just joined today, but have been lurking here to answer any questions that come up when reading over the 500 page service manual.

    I got an 07 Kawasaki Ultra 250 from my boss, who had it since new. Its been serviced at a dealer anytime something went wrong, which was often. It only has 30 hours on it and has been winterized professionally every year. It did have a cracked head last year that was replaced with a new head.

    It was left on choppy water and took on water, didn't sink, but was towed to the mechanic and he sucked all the water out, did a few oil changes, and had it running mint when it was picked up. He told my boss to run it for a few hours to clear everything out, then bring it back soon for another oil change. My boss let it sit for 2 weeks and then it wouldn't start. Back to the mechanic it went-and he said the plugs were frozen and the motor was probably junk, and tried getting my boss to give it to him to scrap.

    My boss gave it to me and here is where I'm at:

    The supercharger seized up. I changed the oil, pulled the spark plugs out, and took the supercharger belt off-and it now cranks and turns over as if it were perfect again. The oil was still a little milky in the engine. There were also what looks like salt deposits in the exhaust.

    I pulled the supercharger hoping it was bearings, and it was the vanes that were seized up, the coating was gone on spots and it corroded together-its junk. I've found another one thats mint for $600, or $1000 if i take the whole hull of another Ultra250. I pulled the intercooler, and it was dirty with some oil and did have a small amount of water in it. Its not corroded to death and its sitting in gasoline right now being cleaned to hopefully be saved.

    I'm not positive if the pump was updated. I hope it was. I want to save this ski because it was free, but mostly because my wife won't let me buy any toys like this until we get a house in a better neighborhood for kids. I can spend time and some money fixing one, but she'd never let me straight out buy one.

    I no doubt will probably have a lot of questions and love some help on this, but my first thought is:

    What is the best way to clean inside the head without removing the valves? I had a Chevy 350 in my 80 Camaro and I hated setting valve lash and keepers on it, and this sounds even more difficult. I don't mind pulling the head, I kind of assumed I'd have to, which sucks, since the head gasket is a year old and probably has 1-3 hours on it. I assume like all motors it will still need to be replaced.

    What are some of the ways you guys have cleaned out the exhaust manifold/throttle body/intake?

    Any thoughts or insight based on my situation is greatly appreciated; although I know most people will say to run from anything that saw salt water, especially these. I'd rather be optimistic that this will run fine with a new supercharger, and live with regret and cost to fix later if it doesnt.

    Also, if i messed up in the way I posted or where I posted, flame away, I will learn. These forums are a wealth of knowledge and its how I restomod'ed my Bronco and Camaro and also helped others do the same.

  2. #2
    dcuhpw's Avatar
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    I would recommend trying to fire it up for just a second and see if it will start. Don't run it for any length of time but see if it will start. Also check crank shaft play with a dial indicator and make sure it's still good. If those two things checkout then move to the supercharger. I wouldn't recommend removing the head if you've never removed one of these heads. Its quite tricky to get the timing aligned with the engine in the ski. Not to mention there really isnt any significant access to be gained for the cooling passages. If the salt buildup is heavy than vinegar usually works best. Afterwards, treat regularly with salt away. once you repair/replace the supercharger, fog it after every ride no exceptions. Lack of maintenance is always the biggest issue on these skis. With the intake manifold and exhaust manifold removed, you can use gun cleaning brushes to clean out the passages fairly well. Be sure to replace all manifold gaskets. Personally I would have John Bond recoat the rotors and rebuild the supercharger. Then add an aluminum hub and aluminum oem size pulley. Would also recommend adding a filter intake to avoid sucking up any more junk and adding a fogging port to the charger. Doing the valves is not that hard with a good shim kit and feeler gauge set. Took me about 2 hrs from start to finish with the engine in the hull. But at 30hrs you shouldn't need to mess with them.

  3. #3
    Thanks dcuhpw. Your Kawi restomod thread was impressive. My ski has dings and a couple scars and will never look as good as that one, but I hope to get it up and running and take my son out on his first ride. I'm 33, and have never owned or even been on a Jet Ski, so having him on one at 4.5 years old would be sweet.

    Do I need to bolt the exhaust back up in order to run it for a couple seconds? I removed it when I removed the supercharger. I actually am buying the new supercharger today for $300, i saw a video of it, opened up, and had the guy spin it for me-all the rotors are coated perfect. Came off a ski with cracked head. If all I have to do is replace the exhaust gaskets and change the oil a couple times to get any water out, then bolt in the new supercharger; I will be into this ski for under $500. Much better than the worst case scenario I've been assuming would happen.

    will keep updated

  4. #4
    dcuhpw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bashton331 View Post
    Thanks dcuhpw. Your Kawi restomod thread was impressive. My ski has dings and a couple scars and will never look as good as that one, but I hope to get it up and running and take my son out on his first ride. I'm 33, and have never owned or even been on a Jet Ski, so having him on one at 4.5 years old would be sweet.

    Do I need to bolt the exhaust back up in order to run it for a couple seconds? I removed it when I removed the supercharger. I actually am buying the new supercharger today for $300, i saw a video of it, opened up, and had the guy spin it for me-all the rotors are coated perfect. Came off a ski with cracked head. If all I have to do is replace the exhaust gaskets and change the oil a couple times to get any water out, then bolt in the new supercharger; I will be into this ski for under $500. Much better than the worst case scenario I've been assuming would happen.

    will keep updated
    you can leave the exhaust off. Just want to crank it over and get it to fire. You won’t need to run it for any length of time. Also, remember to spray fogging oil in the supercharger after every ride. Hope everything works out for you. I did an ultra 250 build last year that may have some useful info for you

  5. #5
    I read your entire build thread a few times before I even owned this Kawi, its awesome. Mine wont be nearly as thorough and I won't have the same finished product, just something to putt around the lake with my kid and dog on...and maybe the wife. I found a supercharger 4 hours from me and drove to get it on Friday-it was MINT. $300 so I feel like I stole it. I can't get the broken spark plug out of cyl #1, I ordered a 4 flute square EZ out that comes tomorrow. I hope it works. The whole plug broke off, so I shouldnt have to worry about porcelain getting into the engine.

    I'm trying to avoid pulling the head if possible, it was put on new last year. I dont want to buy a new head gasket if I dont have to. Unless someone here tells me that a broken plug and a little milky oil(from leaving the water hose on with engine not running/rain mostly) means I should pull the head? The engine cranks over super easy, I just havent done so with the plugs in because one of them is broken.

    will keep posted. love these forums.

  6. #6
    Ok. The squared EZ out broke in the spark plug and now (unless someone tells me an easier way?) I will have to remove the head (stinks because the head was new last year).

    The shop manual states I have to remove the camshafts. Is this true? Or can I set the motor to TDC on Cylinder 1 and then just remove the cam tensioner, pull the Timing Chain off the Cams and zip tie the timing chain up?

    I have Oxy Acetelyne, and I also have a BoltBuster Heat induction tool. I'm hoping that I can get this spark plug out without having to drill into the head. I am also hoping that I can wiggle or tap the EZ out up and out of the broken spark plug if I cant get it out. The EZ out broke halfway out of the plug, so I might be able to still use it with Vise Grips if I heat the plug somehow.

    Any advice? This was a free to me ski, but I already bought a new supercharger for it and really don't want to buy a new head. I know I already have to buy intake, exhaust, fuel inj O rings, and a new head gasket. If I can save the head, I'll be into this 30 hour ski for under $800...

    I already have the supercharger, intercooler, water box, and exhaust out. I don't have a special tool to lock the cams and crank, and tried using search function to find out how people do it without these...I'd also buy them if anyone knows off hand where to get them and what the part numbers are?

    I have a complete but seized SC for this ski that someone can have if its useful for anyone. Otherwise its a pretty cool looking doorstop.


  7. #7
    Hurricane1000's Avatar
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    Last I heard....Jon Bond does not coat Kawasaki supercharger viens....

  8. #8
    dcuhpw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bashton331 View Post
    Ok. The squared EZ out broke in the spark plug and now (unless someone tells me an easier way?) I will have to remove the head (stinks because the head was new last year).

    The shop manual states I have to remove the camshafts. Is this true? Or can I set the motor to TDC on Cylinder 1 and then just remove the cam tensioner, pull the Timing Chain off the Cams and zip tie the timing chain up?

    I have Oxy Acetelyne, and I also have a BoltBuster Heat induction tool. I'm hoping that I can get this spark plug out without having to drill into the head. I am also hoping that I can wiggle or tap the EZ out up and out of the broken spark plug if I cant get it out. The EZ out broke halfway out of the plug, so I might be able to still use it with Vise Grips if I heat the plug somehow.

    Any advice? This was a free to me ski, but I already bought a new supercharger for it and really don't want to buy a new head. I know I already have to buy intake, exhaust, fuel inj O rings, and a new head gasket. If I can save the head, I'll be into this 30 hour ski for under $800...

    I already have the supercharger, intercooler, water box, and exhaust out. I don't have a special tool to lock the cams and crank, and tried using search function to find out how people do it without these...I'd also buy them if anyone knows off hand where to get them and what the part numbers are?

    I have a complete but seized SC for this ski that someone can have if its useful for anyone. Otherwise its a pretty cool looking doorstop.

    There is no cam or crank locking like seadoo and some auto manufacturers have. What they don’t mention in the service manual is that at TDC the cams try really hard to jump out of position. I’d keep trying to get to it without pulling the head. Try using plenty of pb blaster and let it soak overnight. If you need to pull the head: pull the timing rotor cover and mark the timing rotor and the side of the case with some paint or a grease marker to make sure it stays aligned, basically you’ll need to keep the rotor at tdc, install the exhaust cam with the appropriate marking flush with the head and count the links on the timing chain between exhaust and intake. Remove the tensioner on the starboard side by the intake manifold. Have a look at the factory service manual before you do it so you know exactly what your looking for with each procedure. It’s not terribly hard but it’s tedious and not very user friendly. Take pics along the way and we can help you through it. The head bolts can be reused as long as they all look good and torque nicely. And don’t worry about the timing chain slipping on the crank gear. The guides don’t let it move. Just keep the guides in place. There should be no need to remove any hardware under the timing cover. Just remove it to set tdc. I’d take your old supercharger if you don’t want it anymore. Send me a PM and I’ll send you a prepaid label if you like.

  9. #9
    dcuhpw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurricane1000 View Post
    Last I heard....Jon Bond does not coat Kawasaki supercharger viens....
    He does actually, I have the proof on a friends ski here. Good to see you around here again by the way. You had some great tech that helped me out on my builds. I couldn’t remember for sure but weren’t you the one that posted about swapping to the older style waterbox on the newer 15f’s?

  10. #10
    The EZ out wouldn't come out, but I'm glad it didn't. I pulled the head off to find out that the valves had a lot of surface rust on them, and the intake valve on the number 1 cylinder is bent and stuck open.

    I've done plenty of backyard small block valve jobs with just a simple spring tool and some grinding paste, but I no longer have my valve spring compressor.

    1.) Is there a generic valve spring compressor I can use to replace this one valve if I find a valve online? The manual says I need a 57001-241 spring compressor and a 57001-1202 adapter. I could rent or borrow a kit but would need to know what size the 57001-1202 adapter is.

    It doesn't look like it did any damage to the head itself. The pistons and piston walls on the block also look good. Everything inside the head looks decent, and the engine turned over perfectly fine. I think salt water must have sat for awhile floating on top of the oil in the engine, and rusted the bottom of the valves.

    2.) Is there something I can safely use to clean or or soak the intake manifold/throttle body/other small engine parts in order to remove the white crystal-like salt deposits inside?

    I've taken pics along the way and would like to try my first attempt at a write up for replacing a bent valve and removing/replacing the supercharger as well as head gasket replacement, etc. I just want to make sure I succeed in having a running ski before becoming the joke of the forum...

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