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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by fixer View Post
    They were in the 01' pro 1200. They are the standard pump extensions that were cut down.
    Yes you could do that as another member many years ago did this (TxVirageTX http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...t=Pro1200+pump ), but here's my issue with it...the impeller is now located on the butt joint seam of the extension ring and the pump housing....so it wears on both components. The whole purpose of this is to get the impeller completely out of the pump housing so you never have to replace it due to being worn out. The pump housing is a pain in the a$$ to replace if you can even find one as the Pro1200 has it's own unique part number for this....but there probably are some other ones that you could use for a replacement.
    Last edited by 32DegH2O; 10-22-2020 at 07:52 PM.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Is there room behind the Pro1200 engine to add a 2 inch extension directly in front of the threaded driveshaft coupler?
    That would allow a ‘stock’ Pro785 length driveshaft to be used on the Pro1200 with the wear ring in front of the stator?

    Essentially a 2 inch thick metal disc with threaded male and female to fit between the engine and a stock engine coupler.
    I don't think there is room as the shaft bearing housing is about an inch or so away from the hull typically...not to mention the 2" filler piece would need to be stabilized somehow. If there was the room and you were going to go through the trouble of making a custom part to do that, it would probably be easier to just make a custom engine coupler that was 2" longer but that might put to much cantilever force on the threading portion of the coupler to the crank rod.
    Last edited by 32DegH2O; 10-12-2020 at 09:04 PM.

  3. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    I don't think there is room as the shaft bearing housing is about an inch or so away from the hull typically....
    I will mention that the Genesis (and maybe also the Hurricane? ) used a shorter/stubby through-hull bushing+seal assembly.

  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    ... the 2" extension would need to be stabilized somehow.

    ... easier to just make a custom engine coupler that was 2" longer.
    Custom engine driveshaft coupler might be possible, perhaps based on the solid metal (SL780?) coupler rather than the rubber bonded version.

    Anything attached to the back of an engine turning 7000+ RPM needs to be precisely machined, true and in-balance. Custom made coupler, coupler spacer, or driveshaft.

    My initial thought was that a compact 2 inch coupler spacer might be reasonably straightforward for a machinist to create. Threaded on each end, with one side female and the other male threads. Initial shaping (or perhaps almost all the work) done on a lathe so the adapter centerline and finished rotating axis would be true.

    The finished custom adapter would be compact and probably would last forever. One could configure the jet pump with the wear ring in front or behind, using long or short ‘standard’ driveshafts.

    Factory coupler and driveshafts could be used with the adapter and OEM replacements sourced fairly easily if wear or damage occurs. Splines can wear, driveshafts can become grooved or warped

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I will mention that the Genesis (and maybe also the Hurricane? ) used a shorter/stubby through-hull bushing+seal assembly.
    The Pro1200 uses the same shorter/stubby one as the Genesis.

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  7. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    The Pro1200 uses the same shorter/stubby one as the Genesis.
    Could the splined portion of the coupler be made slightly shorter (to allow the ‘longer’ custom coupler to (barely) fit in front of the through-hull seal) and still engage ‘enough’ with the driveshaft splines?

    One option might be to greatly shorten the rubber hose section that holds the through-hull housing in place. Or switch to a different through-hull design. The MSX hulls used a semi-rigid through-hull assembly with a fairly stiff rubber ‘Lord Mount’. Alignment was more critical but it does work. The MSX through-hull housing was rather chunky but not very thick front to back.

    Say, have you looked at whether the MSX type driveshafts (I think there was two lengths) and spider type coupler would possibly work for this? I have no idea whether non-Polaris driveline parts might work for any of this.

  8. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Could the splined portion of the coupler be made slightly shorter (to allow the ‘longer’ custom coupler to (barely) fit in front of the through-hull seal) and still engage ‘enough’ with the driveshaft splines?

    One option might be to greatly shorten the rubber hose section that holds the through-hull housing in place. Or switch to a different through-hull design. The MSX hulls used a semi-rigid through-hull assembly with a fairly stiff rubber ‘Lord Mount’. Alignment was more critical but it does work. The MSX through-hull housing was rather chunky but not very thick front to back.

    Say, have you looked at whether the MSX type driveshafts (I think there was two lengths) and spider type coupler would possibly work for this? I have no idea whether non-Polaris driveline parts might work for any of this.
    No I haven't looked at the MSX setup...I just looked at a parts diagram and it looks very similar to what Yamaha does...especially the GPR. I'll have to look into more of the specific dimensions of these components but looks intriguing.

  9. #18
    Well custom driveshafts are out....waaaaaay to expensive. So here's the next plan. Take the standard 24 3/8" driveshaft which is 6" longer. Switch the extension ring and stator around which gets you 4". Now move the engine forward 2" but that requires a lot of work for a new custom or altered motor mount plates with welding. If you have triple pipes, they can't move forward 2" with the engine. However, you can drill new holes 1" forward on the stock motor mount plates as they have room to do that...and move the engine forward 1"...and triple pipes have room to move that distance. Then you take the 24 3/8" driveshaft and get the ones that have the 2" long flat smooth splines on the one end and cut off 1". Reshape the splines with a curved surface like stock and waaalaaa you have accommodated a stock driveshaft...you'll be able to get those for years to come...even brand new ones!


  10. #19
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32DegH2O View Post
    Well custom driveshafts are out....waaaaaay to expensive. So here's the next plan. Take the standard 24 3/8" driveshaft which is 6" longer. Switch the extension ring and stator around which gets you 4". Now move the engine forward 2" but that requires a lot of work for a new custom or altered motor mount plates with welding. If you have triple pipes, they can't move forward 2" with the engine. However, you can drill new holes 1" forward on the stock motor mount plates as they have room to do that...and move the engine forward 1"...and triple pipes have room to move that distance. Then you take the 24 3/8" driveshaft and get the ones that have the 2" long flat smooth splines on the one end and cut off 1". Reshape the splines with a curved surface like stock and waaalaaa you have accommodated a stock driveshaft...you'll be able to get those for years to come...even brand new ones!
    A guy I talked to about all this said he ran the 20 3/8” shafts with a single 2” cut down wear ring.he shortened the water pipe,linkage,and bolts which moved the tail cone and nozzle forward 2”. Said it worked good.look into finding someone who will mod a stock new shaft.I had two done.plenty of material to do this.one of the best things I ever did to my ski.keep in mind there was a reason for motor placement the way in the ski.the hull basically dictates where the weight needs to be and it’s my belief that all of it was setup for triple pipes in the hull.having said that on a stock pro1200 I always thought the fuel tank needed to be moved to center if triple pipes weren’t going to be installed

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