Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 62
  1. #21
    dcuhpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    765
    +1
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by gunner12 View Post
    Set up and its 0.005 so I am good. Just eye balling is a shot in the dark!
    That’s what I imagined. Pretty much imposible to tell with a tape measure. All you can tell is that it moves. I thought I had about the same amount of play until I used the dial indicator.


  2. #22
    dcuhpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    765
    +1
    56
    Always a good idea to replace the tensioner pulley bearing along with the supercharger pulley bearing. I replaced the supercharger puller hub as well and it makes it much easier for future bearing swaps. If the supercharger is i good shape then make sure you fog it with fogging oil after every ride. No exceptions! If youíre so inclined, I would personally remove the charger and disassemble and inspect it. Check the condition of the rotors and replace the 2 bearings for the rotor shafts. I wish I had the part numbers for all the upgraded bearing part numbers but I failed to document them when installing. In regards to the supercharger belt, itís a good idea to add a second belt and just leave it tied up for future use. Installing the belt isnít that bad actually. Takes a good hour or so if you have your tools ready to go. Just slide the engine back far enough to create a small slot between the driveshaft and pto coupler and feed through your belt. Thereís also an off the shelf belt that fits well but the part number escapes me at the moment. Just make sure not to loosen the driveshaft carrier bearing assembly or youíll have to realign things.

  3. #23
    gunner12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Shelton Washington
    Posts
    41
    +1
    1
    You guys rock!! So I pulled the jet pump and everything looked good. No sign of movement but a little water. I bought all new 300x pump parts including nose cone and solas prop. Bought a good used riva ride plate from Hurricane1000 . New tensioner pulley bearing and 2 sc belts is ordered as well. (would be cool to know the off the shelf # for the belt)
    I will get the SC pulley bearing coming. Once this is all back together I will dive into the charger and and other recommended mods.

  4. #24
    dcuhpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    765
    +1
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by gunner12 View Post
    You guys rock!! So I pulled the jet pump and everything looked good. No sign of movement but a little water. I bought all new 300x pump parts including nose cone and solas prop. Bought a good used riva ride plate from Hurricane1000 . New tensioner pulley bearing and 2 sc belts is ordered as well. (would be cool to know the off the shelf # for the belt)
    I will get the SC pulley bearing coming. Once this is all back together I will dive into the charger and and other recommended mods.
    Let us know how it goes. Perhaps try running the stock plate first and then swap on the Riva so you know how each handles. Not a bad idea to pull the intercooler also and clean out the core. I don’t really recommend that the intercooler be disassembled though unless you plan on replacing the gaskets. Just us some good degreaser (I used some simple green), cap off the inlet, outlet (as well as the blow off valve if you still have one) and bypass valve outlet. Slosh it around and pour it out into a container. Then blow high volume air (I used a shop vac output) to remove any debris. Take note of what comes out especially on the supercharger side. That’s where you may see signs of supercharger wear (eg black flakes of rotor coating). Make sure you get all the debris and fluid out of the intercooler. If you ride in salt, it’s not a bad idea to replace the bolts with stainless, especially the supercharger and pulley bolts. Check all your hoses and clamps and replace any dubious ones with 316 stainless clamps. All water lines (except the bow discharge) are 1/2 ID and all oil hoses are 5/8 ID. Also check the stainless liner in your jet pump for any swelling or high spots. Just my $.02

  5. #25
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    8,160
    +1
    845
    Excellent!

  6. +1 by:


  7. #26
    gunner12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Shelton Washington
    Posts
    41
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by dcuhpw View Post
    Let us know how it goes. Perhaps try running the stock plate first and then swap on the Riva so you know how each handles. Not a bad idea to pull the intercooler also and clean out the core. I don’t really recommend that the intercooler be disassembled though unless you plan on replacing the gaskets. Just us some good degreaser (I used some simple green), cap off the inlet, outlet (as well as the blow off valve if you still have one) and bypass valve outlet. Slosh it around and pour it out into a container. Then blow high volume air (I used a shop vac output) to remove any debris. Take note of what comes out especially on the supercharger side. That’s where you may see signs of supercharger wear (eg black flakes of rotor coating). Make sure you get all the debris and fluid out of the intercooler. If you ride in salt, it’s not a bad idea to replace the bolts with stainless, especially the supercharger and pulley bolts. Check all your hoses and clamps and replace any dubious ones with 316 stainless clamps. All water lines (except the bow discharge) are 1/2 ID and all oil hoses are 5/8 ID. Also check the stainless liner in your jet pump for any swelling or high spots. Just my $.02
    So I yarded the IC and found chunks in the bottom of the cooler. So I pulled the SC and found it flaking off the rotors. Sh*t
    This would cause a power loss right? Crazy the thing only has 57hrs on it!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20201008_140250.png 
Views:	142 
Size:	310.1 KB 
ID:	467884  

  8. #27
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    8,160
    +1
    845
    Bummer! But it beats the shit out of replacing the crank & case!

    As far as the belt, I doubt that it's a special belt. Probably any auto parts store could match it.

  9. #28
    dcuhpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    765
    +1
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by gunner12 View Post
    So I yarded the IC and found chunks in the bottom of the cooler. So I pulled the SC and found it flaking off the rotors. Sh*t
    This would cause a power loss right? Crazy the thing only has 57hrs on it!!
    Looks like no maintenance. like I said, fogging oil after every ride no exceptions. You can grab a new one for about $1700-$1800 or send it to Jon Bond for a rebuild. Also, grab the Riva air intake. There is no filter on the ski as is and a lot of junk gets sucked up in there.

  10. #29
    gunner12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Shelton Washington
    Posts
    41
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by dcuhpw View Post
    Looks like no maintenance. like I said, fogging oil after every ride no exceptions. You can grab a new one for about $1700-$1800 or send it to Jon Bond for a rebuild. Also, grab the Riva air intake. There is no filter on the ski as is and a lot of junk gets sucked up in there.
    Yeah pretty much a bummer but what are you going to do. Bought the ski cheap enough and I'm willing to invest in it. How much did John Bond charge or do you guys have contact information so I can talk to him? Definitely going to do a air intake for sure. Crazy didn't come with them Factory. I looked at Kawai performance.com but they started out at 2000 and up. Does anybody have information on a fogging Port? I can TIG weld a bung no problem.
    Last edited by gunner12; 10-08-2020 at 09:07 PM.

  11. #30
    dcuhpw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    765
    +1
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by gunner12 View Post
    Yeah pretty much a bummer but what are you going to do. Bought the ski cheap enough and I'm willing to invest in it. How much did John Bond charge or do you guys have contact information so I can talk to him? Definitely going to do a air intake for sure. Crazy didn't come with them Factory. I looked at Kawai performance.com but they started out at 2000 and up. Does anybody have information on a fogging Port? I can TIG weld a bung no problem.
    I believe it’s about $900 to rebuild the charger. He really does great work. Lookup Jon Bond Superchargers and his website will pop up. I’d upgrade the pulley hub and pulley with bearings. The aluminum hub is nice to have and I’d recommend a nice aluminum pulley (stock size or just a tiny bit undersized if you want). You could also disassemble the intercooler and grab some new gaskets.

Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FS - Parts 2007 kawasaki ultra 250x part out
    By ChrisFiore15 in forum Kawasaki Classifieds
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-16-2017, 06:48 AM
  2. 2007 kawasaki Ultra 250X
    By colombianomiami in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-05-2013, 06:19 PM
  3. FS 2007 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X
    By Socaloffshore in forum Kawasaki Skis
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-30-2010, 01:33 AM
  4. FS Red 2007 Kawasaki Ultra 250X
    By Robsauto2 in forum Kawasaki Skis
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-10-2010, 07:14 PM
  5. 2007 Kawasaki Ultra 250X.
    By blownhotrodder in forum Kawasaki Skis
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 01-27-2009, 03:10 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •