SL 1050 Performance

[awolverton42]

I’ve got a 97 SL 1050 that is getting a complete rebuild this winter, all internals. It was completely stock before, but I am looking for any mods to up the performance a bit. Let me hear any and all of them. I already have a 6 vane stator that I bought a few weeks ago, but haven’t put it in yet. Just looking for thoughts from anyone. Thanks

[Drkvampire2001]

Biggest bang for you buck would be to find some 1050 Hot Seat Domes.

[awolverton42]

Hot seat domes are pretty rare aren't they? I was thinking maybe Boyesen Power reeds too, has anyone swapped reeds? I had good luck with the Power reeds on my 750. Anything else?

[awolverton42]

I've seen a fair amount of people using carbon tech reeds in 1050's with good results, would that be a good way to go??

Also, I've got some high compression heads on order from a guy that is having some old ones copied, will require premium fuel. Will this require any jetting changes that anyone knows about or should I just tune on my own once I get them?

[sdlvx]

I've seen a fair amount of people using carbon tech reeds in 1050's with good results, would that be a good way to go??

Also, I've got some high compression heads on order from a guy that is having some old ones copied, will require premium fuel. Will this require any jetting changes that anyone knows about or should I just tune on my own once I get them?

Whenever I do anything to a ski I check spark plugs (and you should check piston wash too), just to be safe.

[xlint89]

Performance reeds are nice. They add a touch to acceleration.

Domes are good too. Yes, you will need to adjust jetting for it. Make sure to do a squish test once installed. Too much clearance and you don't get a good burn. Too little and you'll get preignition, or possible contact.

[awolverton42]

Performance reeds are nice. They add a touch to acceleration.

Domes are good too. Yes, you will need to adjust jetting for it. Make sure to do a squish test once installed. Too much clearance and you don't get a good burn. Too little and you'll get preignition, or possible contact.

Can you explain squish? I've heard the term used but just not familiar with what it means or how to check it. Thanks

[sdlvx]

Can you explain squish? I've heard the term used but just not familiar with what it means or how to check it. Thanks

Squish is the distance between the dome of the head and the top of the piston. It's smaller on the edges, you can take a soft metal rod, like a welding rod for tig welding, bend it so it fits into the spark plug hole, push it to the side of the cylinder wall, then manually turn over the engine with your hand to squish the metal you put in (it should be very soft metal, don't try with anything hard), then take out the part you squished and measure it with a micrometer. That's a hill billy way I think but it's good enough to know if you're going to hit. Rods will stretch when under high RPMs so you want plenty of space.

[xlint89]

Post #14

http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...t=15460&page=2


Doing some reading and it looks to be .060" is what you should aim for squish clearance

[awolverton42]

I see. I will be sure to check that when I get it all put back together.

Also, I'm getting my cylinders bored out to match my new top end, I know there's a port chamfering specs that are special to the 1050 engines, can anyone fill me in on what the spec is, and can educate me on how important it is? And will it need to be redone if the cylinder is bored to match .25 over pistons? Thanks.