Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
  1. #11
    AllanK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    37
    +1
    3
    My guess for pushing up the plate is so engine alignment is set slightly higher. I have noticed after checking the engine alignment a month later, my new engine mounts had sagged slightly. Alignment with the hull insert is also very critical and needs to be spot on.

  2. #12
    This is what I mean in the past post, If the plate are fix it at the top as the manual says, the shaft will not be centered in the thru-hull, the bellow and carbon ring with the possible consequence that it is always touching the carbon.
    In these images the motor is 100% perfectly aligned with the plate at the top as the manual says, but it can be seen that the shaft is very close to the top of the carbon ring instead of being centered on it.
    This shit has me crazy, lol.


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	service.jpg 
Views:	108 
Size:	91.1 KB 
ID:	467228   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	FUELLE.jpg 
Views:	112 
Size:	64.7 KB 
ID:	467229   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_9371-min.jpg 
Views:	109 
Size:	41.8 KB 
ID:	467230  

  3. #13
    AllanK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    37
    +1
    3
    I machined up an aluminium disk and installed it into the pump shoe behind the alignment plate. The aluminium disk also locates on the alignment tool round machined boss. I found that the alignment plate was correct and central setting down on the locating pins and not pushed up. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SmartSelect_20200920-092156_Photos.jpeg 
Views:	24 
Size:	26.2 KB 
ID:	467235


  4. #14

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jax,FL
    Posts
    4,824
    +1
    981
    A few things;

    1. When you put the alignment plate on, did you use a torque wrench to make sure the plate is on even? It's super important to use the procedure in the manual to torque the pump on and the plate the same way so you make sure you maintain the alignment when you put the pump back on.

    2. Take the bellow band off, the hope is (assuming the pump shoe is on correctly) the shaft will go through the middle of the hull. Hard to see with the bellow band hanging there. I also take the o-rings out of the pto so the alignment shaft just slips in and out of the PTO. It might catch a little but that's ok. You shouldn't have to force the alignment rod in an out. Hopefully it looks like it's going through the center of the hull or is at lest perpendicular if it's a little high or low. If you think you have the motor aligned best you can and the alignment tool is going crooked through the hull...then you kind of shit out of luck and redoing a pump shoe is a big PIA and you may end up making things worse. I've done this a bunch and never had to fix a shoe. I did have a ski where the shaft was a little high but the carbon seal was still parallel to the hat and the hat and the seal was fine.

    3. Your carbon ring looks new...not sure if is. I would measure you below band as well...it's a spring and will loose springy-ness over time. spec is in the manual.

    4. Usually when I do an alignment I replace everything, o-rings, hat, carbon seal, c-clip. It's usually once in a lifetime of a ski for me...just not worth not having everything new.

    5. Once you think you have it aligned, put the pump back in with the just the shaft (don't put the hat, orings etc back on) this is so you can see if the shaft is moving freely. You can reach up through the grate and move the shaft back and forth. The axial play is very little like 1.9 mm I think. The shaft shouldn't feel bound up is the point and shouldn't feel sloppy back and forth.

    I know that was a lot, hope it helps.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jax,FL
    Posts
    4,824
    +1
    981
    wow, just saw how sloppy your plate is. is that an official seadoo tool?

  6. #16
    Look my next video i believe that i will alignment with the plate in down position..

    Quote Originally Posted by AllanK View Post
    I machined up an aluminium disk and installed it into the pump shoe behind the alignment plate. The aluminium disk also locates on the alignment tool round machined boss. I found that the alignment plate was correct and central setting down on the locating pins and not pushed up. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SmartSelect_20200920-092156_Photos.jpeg 
Views:	24 
Size:	26.2 KB 
ID:	467235

  7. #17
    Is SBT....

    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    wow, just saw how sloppy your plate is. is that an official seadoo tool?

  8. #18
    Hi buddy thanks for the help

    yes i used the same torque of the service manual and all components as new, ring carbon, hat, c-clip, bellow, all new... check my next post with new videos down... i believe that i will change the alignment and i will put the plate in the more down position because check videos, the drive shaft touch the carbon ring and in the other video you can check...up i can not enter the finger and down i can enter de finger without problem...i will proceed to alignment with the plate of tool in down position normal...for try that the drive shaft are as centered as possible on the thru-hull

    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    A few things;

    1. When you put the alignment plate on, did you use a torque wrench to make sure the plate is on even? It's super important to use the procedure in the manual to torque the pump on and the plate the same way so you make sure you maintain the alignment when you put the pump back on.

    2. Take the bellow band off, the hope is (assuming the pump shoe is on correctly) the shaft will go through the middle of the hull. Hard to see with the bellow band hanging there. I also take the o-rings out of the pto so the alignment shaft just slips in and out of the PTO. It might catch a little but that's ok. You shouldn't have to force the alignment rod in an out. Hopefully it looks like it's going through the center of the hull or is at lest perpendicular if it's a little high or low. If you think you have the motor aligned best you can and the alignment tool is going crooked through the hull...then you kind of shit out of luck and redoing a pump shoe is a big PIA and you may end up making things worse. I've done this a bunch and never had to fix a shoe. I did have a ski where the shaft was a little high but the carbon seal was still parallel to the hat and the hat and the seal was fine.

    3. Your carbon ring looks new...not sure if is. I would measure you below band as well...it's a spring and will loose springy-ness over time. spec is in the manual.

    4. Usually when I do an alignment I replace everything, o-rings, hat, carbon seal, c-clip. It's usually once in a lifetime of a ski for me...just not worth not having everything new.

    5. Once you think you have it aligned, put the pump back in with the just the shaft (don't put the hat, orings etc back on) this is so you can see if the shaft is moving freely. You can reach up through the grate and move the shaft back and forth. The axial play is very little like 1.9 mm I think. The shaft shouldn't feel bound up is the point and shouldn't feel sloppy back and forth.

    I know that was a lot, hope it helps.

  9. #19
    Hi buddys, THANKS ALL MEMBERS FOR ARE HELP ME.

    New videos with the motor 100% aligned with the tool plate in the up position ... I think I will proceed to remove the shims that I added to raise the motor and it will be aligned with the alignment plate in the highest position.
    now I will install the plate of the alignment tool in normal position down, I will align the motor again, removing the shims to try that the drive-shaft is a little more centered in the thru-hull ... what is your opinion?


  10. #20

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jax,FL
    Posts
    4,824
    +1
    981
    Just keep in mind the goal is to have the shaft to be as perpendicular to the hull as possible. If it's not perfectly through the middle it shouldn't be an issue. Seems like my 16PX wasnt perfectly through the middle but it was perpendicular and didn't leak. Can't remember which year but I think by 16 the hat was bigger in diameter so if the carbon ring was a little off center (not crooked) it would still seal.

    I would put just the shaft in with the pump on and if it's not binding and looks like it's perpendicular to where it goes through the hull, i'd call it a day. Not sure where you got your plate but those holes that fit over the little plastic pins should be snug...otherwise what's the point. That being said now that you have the bellow off, you should be able to see if your alignment shaft is going through the center of the hull, and move it up or down...then work on getting the motor to the right height.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-04-2020, 09:17 PM
  2. 2016 rxpx 300 needing engine alignment tool
    By Northwestron in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-03-2017, 09:48 PM
  3. Rxt-300 Motor Alignment Help
    By LITTLEZ187 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-15-2017, 10:37 PM
  4. FS Sea-Doo OE Engine Alignment Plates, Adaptors and Alignment Rod
    By David_HX_RXP in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-03-2015, 02:33 AM
  5. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-04-2011, 09:09 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •