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  1. #1
    Goku's Avatar
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    1997 SL 1050 no spark, possible stator upgrade needed Red Domestic

    Good day All,

    I've just got me a 97 SL 1050 that doesn't run.
    i was told that the mfd doesn't work but the ski use to run well but when it was warm and you killed the engine it wouldn't start again till it was cold again or the next day but after a few months or so that they had it it wouldn't start at all.

    I've tested for spark and their isn't any with the key in. the batt is gives error on my smart charger after a while as the ski has been standing a few years but i tested it on a old car batt also, so it turns fine and still no spark
    the mfd comes on and display gets some errors when pressing through the mode settings

    I'm assuming that its either a bad connection or a stator issue which i believe is common issue, I'm going to check the wires the weekend but i cant remove the stator as i don't have a puller. so id also need to know where is the best place to get the puller and a new gen 3 stator if needed as I'm from south Africa and Polaris pulled out the country over 15 years ago and some shipping will cost $130 more or less and conversion is R17 to $1 so its heavy

    i was also advised that the ski had performance mods as he was told from the previous owner but i don't see any

    please can you advise what all i should look out for

    going to try strip the electricals the weekend if i got time as im working but i need to check it

    thanks Albert


  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    Welcome to GreenHulk.

    The very first thing is to test cranking voltage.Needs to be over 10.6v to start/have spark.
    Polaris skis demand a strong battery.

    Need to know the part number on your CDI in the electrical box. The stator will be tested from the box.

    Post a clear picture of your engine compartment, we could spot modifications.

  3. #3
    Goku's Avatar
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    thanks just did a test on a old car batt it drops to 10.6 10.5 10.8v

    think i saw that you can also test with a 9v batt and then it might get spark to start
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  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    ... just did a test on a old car batt it drops to 10.6 10.5 10.8v

    ...
    The battery voltage needs to stay well OVER 10.6 volts. Not just barely, almost, slightly more than 10.6 volts.

    You want a strong battery that maintains voltage during cranking, like MORE THAN 11.0 volts.

    If you do not have a strong battery it will confound the diagnostics.

  5. #5
    Goku's Avatar
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    thanks, ill put it on my car batt tomorrow and see if it makes any difference,
    what size battery should be in the ski it has a 12v 16 or 18 amp hour

    any chance one can tell if its got the stock stator or the upgrade

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    thanks, ill put it on my car batt tomorrow and see if it makes any difference,
    what size battery should be in the ski it has a 12v 16 or 18 amp hour

    any chance one can tell if its got the stock stator or the upgrade
    The factory battery is 19 amp-hour.

    I recommend the Deka manufacture ETX16 battery. Factory sealed AGM type, much better overall. Cannot leak, strong starting power. Just make sure you use an AGM compatible battery charger.


    Stator generation/version can be determined by ohmmeter checks of the stator coils. Click my signature link to find the details on magneto stator testing

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post

    any chance one can tell if its got the stock stator or the upgrade
    That is a Gen3 style CDI , same style as the update CDI,but is a part number used on newer 1200 engines and should be fine.

    Check stator ohms as K447 suggested- I see a ground (earth ) wire was repaired/eyelet connecter was replaced. I worried that might be the stator ground. Gen1 stator ground connected dirrectly to CDI with a bullit style connecter. The Gen3 CDI do not have that style ground connecter. Gen1 components do not work with Gen3 components.

  8. #8
    Goku's Avatar
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    thanks ill try look for the sheet so i can measure the correct wires and try see what's the stator ohms are on

    i connected it to my cars batt and still drops 9v and 10.6 when car is running at 14.6 v it drops to about 10.8 and 11v this ski pulls a lot of power from such a small batt

    I've looked but i don't find the doc to test stator ohms, i found something for a 750 but it doesn't have the same color codded wires as mine, please can someone post the pic for mine on what to do so i can get the readings its a 97 sl 1050, i also noticed that the reset switch has been disconnected not sure why, looks like wires were re routed as their are no spares not sure if this makes any difference

    thanks
    Last edited by Goku; 09-19-2020 at 07:11 AM.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    ...

    i connected it to my cars batt and still drops 9v and 10.6
    when car is running at 14.6 v it drops to about 10.8 and 11v
    this ski pulls a lot of power from such a small batt

    I've looked but i don't find the doc to test stator ohms ...

    .... the reset switch has been disconnected ... looks like wires were re routed ...

    ...
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....t-things-to-do

    Look in there, find the red engine sections, then find the links to magneto stator testing

    Non-factory wiring is a problem, in that if the people on here do not know how it is actually wired then we have no idea what is going on.

    This machine still does not have a healthy strong battery installed, correct?

    Using jumper cables and external batteries is a recipe for not only potentially causing electrical spikes that can damage the Polaris electronics, it also can allow unwanted voltage drops that confuse the diagnostics.

  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    That is alot of voltage drop. Not sure how big the auto batteries are in Africa. There is alot of voltage lost in jumper cables.

    Either way, you should inspect the battery cables closely. Clean both ends especially the black at the engine-the red at starter might be difficult.

    You could remove the jet pump to make sure it is not adding drag on starter, inorder to get the ignition issue figured out.

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