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  1. #31
    Goku's Avatar
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    Progress updated

    ok, so im making progress it finally starts after a while but wasn't easy but it smokes like hell not sure it should be using so much oil, even the muffler pipe was full as it looked hard and like thick soet.

    not sure its charging well either as the volts while running is only 12.8v but don't want to rev it a lot out of water, so someware must be a charging issue.

    kinda revs ok if you listen to the end of the vid. but you might know better on the sound but guess will see when in the water

    I've added the jumper wire hope its in the right place

    im going to replace the exhaust pipe with 2 90' silicon bends and a 76mm pipe so it doesn't smoke in the ski and flows a bit better.

    I ran it for about 20 min or so and killed it and started it again to see if it would start and seemed fine just doesn't start well when cold starts after about 4 min on and off so I don't burn the starter.

    found some place said they do American made battery but don't think I believe them as you only get a 6 months warranty which if crap. so im still hunting for another good battery.

    I still need to strip the mfd and see what I can do as I saw how to fix it.

    thanks for all the help and ill post my progress


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  2. #32
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    These engines get "fogged" for storage/off season. That involves spraying cylinders/carbs with fogging oil. It will smoke more on first start of season.

    It will not run well with that smoke under the seat.

    Anything above resting battery voltage is charging. These charging systems are not very strong. A weak battery will absorb all charging voltage. As you probably noticed, a weak battery is not your friend.

    Yeah, 6 months for a power sports battery warranty is common. What people do with them in the off season matters. Let them sit 6 months=junk.

    Phones arent known for their sound quality, but sounds about right. Congratulations !

  3. #33
    Goku's Avatar
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    Thanks bud, I don't think we fog the ski here in sa as the waather is always hot even winter doesn't really drop below 3 sedrees c and family that had it wouldn't know he to fog it as they were new to boating so might be another issue

    If I look at the exhaust pipe I'm busy replacing it had bad carbon and thick carbon build up.

    Old the oil might be why it doesn't start so easy when cold.

    But maybe a good run will get the carbon out and will have to see if it will still smoke as bad.

    Think I connected that jumped wire OK so now hope no restart issues like it had

    ok another update I just stripped and repaired the MFD and its working ok now has a good display again but a crap job to try cut through the plastic bit sealed again with marine silicon so done.
    Last edited by Goku; 10-04-2020 at 05:11 AM.

  4. #34
    Goku's Avatar
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    tried to start it and it battles again untill i put fuel in the carbs then it starts after a while but runs foe 20 min easy, maybe ill get some carb cleaner or fuel cleaner to clean it abit.

    now i dont my trim is working as it doesnt register on the mfd and its not moving up or down. mmmm maybe loose wire or something

  5. #35
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    ... trim is ... doesnt register on the mfd and its not moving up or down. ...
    Hold Bilge button down. Make sure the MFD is awake. Bilge pump should run. Press trim up/down buttons. Trim motor should work and show on display..

  6. #36
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    Hi Guys,

    does any one know what the 1050 SL draws as CCA when it starts maybe around 200 cca as I'm looking for a battery and a lot only have 230 CCA which might be ok or be the min, so I'm looking for others that are 270 to 310 cca so the higher the better to prevent voltage drop. but the prices are more than a sealed car battery that's about 70amp and 500cca but its just a lot bigger probably can even fit a sealed 40amp sealed car battery. "probably the size of the electrical box"

    the ski battles to start a bit when cold and don't think it likes the choke to be used fully and starts better if i put some gas in the carbs then it starts in 30 sec about or 1 min, I'm still thinking its getting to much oil but after a good run might fix that issue.

    ill try post a pic of the plugs as they look a bit black

    i just don't want the battery to get flat to quick before it starts up after standing a day or longer.

    not sure if their is anything I can put in the fuel or pray to clean carbs a bit, it seems to rev ok once started but ill check again this weekend after I've replaced the exhaust pipe

    i stay 1.5 hours from the dam so its quite the drive to go test so i just want to see what i can do first. and now we need a skippers license too so ill be getting that in the next few weeks

    thanks
    Last edited by Goku; 10-09-2020 at 01:08 AM.

  7. #37
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    When the engine is working 100% properly, including the carbs and fuel system, it should start from cold, with choke, in maybe 10-15 seconds. Warmed up even a little, maybe 3-5 seconds of cranking to fire up and idle.

    Really long cranking (30 seconds or more) before the cold engine begins to fire can be an indication that air is getting into the fuel lines (perhaps air leakage or fuel leakage while the engine is sitting).

    Or something else is not quite right.

    In terms of physical battery size, the factory battery size is about 7 long x 6 inches tall and about 4 inches thick.

    CBL16 is a wiely used name for this size.

    225 cranking amps (nominal, claimed)

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  8. #38
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    ok so I'm making progress but finding more issues.

    the plugs installed are BR8ES but knowledge base says should be BRR8ES not sure what the difference is on the RR will this make a difference as i cant find the RR plug.

    I've installed the new exhaust pipe so that it doesn't restrict the flow assuming should perform better and not get as hot any ideas.

    not sure if sounds like bogging or limiter

    while running the ski on the hose the mag and Cen will sting your finger pro is hot but not to bad guess cant run it on the pipe to long

    also noticed the dreaded grey lines but looks like just on the tank and not carbs not sure if this is correct as i guess ill need to replace them too


    thanks
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  9. #39
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    The correct plugs are B P R 8ES.
    The P stands for "projected". On a completely different model I compared "P" to non projected and couldnt find a difference on that model.

    Non P ,might be minutely safer. If dealing with performance issues=should get correct plugs.

    Yeah, sounded better with restricted exhaust. Will need to get it running better/tune carbs as needed. You should read up on that.
    Wiith PWC IN water, all 3 cylinders should be equal temp. Unequal temp means cylinder not operating correctly.
    Running on hose to water bar will have unequal temps.

    You do know these came from the factory with "automatic" oil injection. There will be an oil pump bolted to front of engine, I can see it still has the oil tank-there will be a hose from tank to pump, 3 small hoses to carbs (one each carb).
    With oil pump working there is no need to mix oil into the fuel. Could someone have poured oil into fuel tank ?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    The correct plugs are B P R 8ES.
    The P stands for "projected". On a completely different model I compared "P" to non projected and couldnt find a difference on that model.

    Non P ,might be minutely safer. If dealing with performance issues=should get correct plugs.

    Yeah, sounded better with restricted exhaust. Will need to get it running better/tune carbs as needed. You should read up on that.
    Wiith PWC IN water, all 3 cylinders should be equal temp. Unequal temp means cylinder not operating correctly.
    Running on hose to water bar will have unequal temps.

    You do know these came from the factory with "automatic" oil injection. There will be an oil pump bolted to front of engine, I can see it still has the oil tank-there will be a hose from tank to pump, 3 small hoses to carbs (one each carb).
    With oil pump working there is no need to mix oil into the fuel. Could someone have poured oil into fuel tank ?
    Don't think they mixed oil in the tank so the oil injection should be working, i see its also smoking a lot less than it first did after standing so long.

    the throttle was fully open so not sure if if was bogging or it was the limiter as it seemed to rev and respond quick just not start easy when cold.
    I've added that 76mm pipe with the 2 90" bends so that the exhaust isn't so restricted I'm sure with out it will cause performance issues and over heating

    ill try get a spare set of plugs BPR8ES as i saw the online Manual advised BRR8ES for this model

    i also see that grey line by the tank but looks like it goes to the splitter connection and fuel on off switch guessing this must be changed to the black line too

    might need to lookup how to clean or tunes the carbs but still not sure what mods the ski has but either way tuning and cleaning should be the same i guess

    thanks

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