Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 46
  1. #21
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lemont,IL
    Posts
    3,515
    +1
    84
    J&L YXT16-BS, looks like a dirrect fit. Is there away to have it tested for actual output ? In CAmps ?

    The power wire move/jumper was needed on most Gen3 CDI, but not all. It does rely on the LR module to work properly-complicates diagnosis.

    Yes, the exhaust hose needs to be repaired. It sounds like it is damaged on the inside-could block exhaust and not run. At minimum if it leaks-it will choke the engine.
    I have made modifications with PVC pipe. Bought thin wall aluminum pipe on e-bay.
    Silicone hose bends available for turbo cars, also works. Cheaper if you can your bends.

    There is a write up on fixing MFD's dim display on this site.
    It will run without the MFD, just cant see rpm's.


  2. #22
    Goku's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    22
    thanks ill try get that battery tested and ask them to test a new one to see what the cca are. the website below for
    J&L YXT16-BS looks like the cca is 200 on that battery

    what whould be the biggest but safest battery to fit so it doesnt damage the stator as im sure a larger bettery will try pull to much more power and damage the stator.

    i was going to build a mold from the pvc pipe to get the shape then get a place like an exhaust place to bend and shape it guessing its close to 60 mm in diamater but will measure.
    will try the flea market here also as they sell some car stuff and sound to make them look bit better they might have as their prices will be better

    or ill have to try this place https://www.autostyle.co.za/product-category/car-accessories/engine-performance-products/silicon-pipes-and-bends/

    family i got the ski from advised that when the ski was hot it wouldnt restart so its prob the jumper as it started when was cold not sure if theyt recharged the battery, guessing it wont harm if i just get it out the way and do it once ive stripped it or ill have to strip it again.

    i saw the fix for the MFD so will give it a try at some point and it would be nice to have working.

    battery specs https://www.battery.co.za/products/automotive/motorcycles/

  3. #23
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    43,344
    +1
    2,276
    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    ... family I got the ski from advised that when the ski was hot it wouldn't restart ...
    The typical no-warm-restart symptom happens even with a cold engine. *

    Start engine.
    Stop engine.
    Wait a few seconds.
    Press Start.
    Engine cranks but no spark.
    Wait several minutes.
    Press Start, engine fires up normally.

    It is not really anything to do with the engine being fully warmed up. It is just the Gen III CDI electronics being confused about whether the engine is still running when in fact it has already been stopped.

    Inside the CDI is a circuit that forces a complete engine shut down even if the Stop button is momentarily pressed. The idea is that a quick tap on Stop would not resume firing the spark plugs again immediately after the Stop button was released while the engine was still coasting down. So a quick tap of Stop ‘locks’ the CDI into an internal ignition shut-down mode. No more spark even after Stop button is released.

    The problem is that some CDI would stay in this ‘ignition not allowed’ mode for far too long. So even many seconds after the engine had actually stopped turning, the CDI internally was continuing to ‘force’ no spark.

    The work around hack (instead of Polaris and PVL properly fixing the CDI circuitry) was to power the CDI from the Orange wire ‘accessory’ output of the LR module. The LR module does properly recognize when the engine has stopped turning (when the Yellow wire AC signal goes away).

    So the Orange wire goes to zero volts very quickly after the engine RPM reaches zero, forcing the CDI to fully power down. Now when Start is next pressed and the engine begins cranking, the LR module Orange output powers up the CDI. The CDI has completely forgotten about the ‘forced no spark’ thing and just starts the engine normally. Even if the engine was just shut down a few seconds earlier.


    * I suppose it is possible that some CDI change their restart behavior when the electrical box becomes warm from radiated engine heat.

    This can be checked by using a hair dryer or mild heat gun to warm up the CDI module directly with the engine still cold. If the problem occurs when the module is warmed up but does not occur when the engine itself is cold then you have exposed the problem cause condition.

  4. #24
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lemont,IL
    Posts
    3,515
    +1
    84
    That hose shouldnt get that hot. PVC pipe holds up.
    I used it to repair straight peices of damaged hose, where damage usually occurs.

    "wouldnt start when hot" has like 100 causes in any diagnostic tree. Even a borderline battery. More power is needed with a hot starter.
    The first and most important part is the battery. Everything begins at the battery.
    Difficult to diagnose with out first hand tests. Ive been a mechanic for nearly 30 years-couldnt count how many "NEW" parts/repairs did not fix the issue at hand.

  5. +1 by:


  6. #25
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    43,344
    +1
    2,276
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The typical no-warm-restart ...
    That is caused by the CDI itself.

    Forum won’t let me edit my prior post

  7. #26
    Goku's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    22
    so is it worth putting the jumper? as it doesn't currently have it installed

    ive made up a jumper wire to look the same just need to install it

  8. #27
    Goku's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    22
    ok so ive been emailing around and this is from one of the battery experts over here

    they advised if the ski has a stator and not an alternator then it will kill the agm battery as it wont charge it properly so im think the ski is stator and not alternator

    what cca does the battery need to power the ski and for how long? will also need to see if the below will fit or will i need to modify it


    These are the batteries generally used for Jet Skis

    These are all Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) with Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Technology

    12V 17Ah, 20Ah sharing the same casing size (LxWxH in mm: 181 x 76 x 167) :
    CSB GP12170 12V 17Ah Standby Battery, 5 year design life in standby use, 230A for 5 Seconds: https://www.createenergy.co.za/batte...m-battery.html R 684.95 VAT Incl. (In Stock, subject to prior sale)

    CSB EVX12170 12V 17Ah Deep Cycle Battery, 8 year design life in standby use, 230A for 5 Seconds: https://www.createenergy.co.za/batte...m-battery.html R959.95 VAT Incl. (In Stock, JHB East Warehouse, Subject to prior sale, +-2 Working days lead time to arrive at our offices from payment being received in our account)

    CSB EVX12200 12V 20Ah Deep Cycle Battery, 8 year design life in standby use, 230A for 5 Seconds: https://www.createenergy.co.za/batte...m-battery.html R 1299.95 VAT Incl (In Stock, JHB East Warehouse, Subject to prior sale, +-2 Working days lead time to arrive at our offices from payment being received in our account)

    12V 26Ah, 28Ah, 30Ah sharing the same casing size (LxWxH in mm: 166 x 125 x 175):
    CSB HRL12110W 12V, 28Ah Long Life Standby Battery, 8 year design life in standby use, 225A for 5 seconds: https://www.createenergy.co.za/batte...y-10-year.html R 1 459.95 VAT Incl. (In Stock, JHB East Warehouse, Subject to prior sale, +-2 Working days lead time to arrive at our offices from payment being received in our account)

    CSB EVX12300 12V 30Ah Deep Cycle Battery, 8 year design life in standby use, 400A for 5 seconds: https://www.createenergy.co.za/batte...m-battery.html R 1 529.95 VAT Incl (In Stock, JHB East Warehouse, Subject to prior sale, +-2 Working days lead time to arrive at our offices from payment being received in our account)

    CSB GP12260 12V 26Ah Standby Battery, 5 year design life in standby use, 350A for 5 seconds: https://www.createenergy.co.za/batte...m-battery.html R 1 214.95 VAT Incl. (In Stock, JHB East Warehouse, Subject to prior sale, +-2 Working days lead time to arrive at our offices from payment being received in our account)

  9. #28
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    43,344
    +1
    2,276
    You do NOT want a deep cycle or Standby battery.

    You do want an engine start battery which is intended to repeatedly deliver high amp current to the starter motor during engine cranking.

    The battery charging system in Polaris watercraft is voltage regulated. It is a stator design but it works just fine with AGM battery. We have used Deka ETX16 factory sealed AGM batteries in many Polaris PWC. Works well, charges the battery nicely. Typical charging voltage is just over 14 volts when the engine is running with a fully charged battery.

    Perhaps the battery expert you are talking with are conflating stator type charging with poor voltage regulated electrical systems on small engines?

    The same Deka ETX16 battery also fits large motorcycles such as the big twins from Harley and some other brands. What battery is sold to fit the big engine motorcycles in your region?

  10. #29
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    43,344
    +1
    2,276
    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    so is it worth putting the jumper? as it doesn't currently have it installed

    ive made up a jumper wire to look the same just need to install it
    If you are asking about the wire to connect the CDI power feed to the Orange wire terminal, that is NOT needed unless you are encountering the engine not wanting to restart right after engine shut down. If you can start and stop the engine several times in succession then you do not need the jumper.

  11. #30
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lemont,IL
    Posts
    3,515
    +1
    84
    Yes, you can install the jumper. For ease of diagnosis- connect it to the red/pur terminal on the terminal board.

    IF you verify proper operation/voltage of the LR, you can simply move that wire to orange terminal.

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2000 polaris 1200 pro No start/No spark Red Domestic Engine
    By Hobbleswolf in forum Polaris Tech Tips and Info
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-20-2018, 12:36 PM
  2. 2002 Polaris Virage Red Domestic Engine No spark - Need help
    By Lake_guy in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-03-2017, 03:50 PM
  3. FS - Parts Polaris domestic red engine flywheel housing and stator cover
    By K447 in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-13-2013, 10:59 PM
  4. 1997 polaris sl 1050 stator upgrade
    By cfarley04 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-29-2010, 09:20 PM
  5. 1997 SL 1050 engine. Red or blue?
    By dannyual777 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-14-2010, 05:18 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •