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  1. #11
    Goku's Avatar
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    Hi guys,

    so i did a bit of testing but not as much as i wanted due to my kids birthday.

    i extended the wires for the batt to connect a car bat for testing its about a 70 amp/h batt so should start it.

    i did notice that when i connect the red terminal it seems to be pulling a bit of power like something is on as car light would do if on so i decided to disconnect 1 wire at a time then reconnect batt to see which one it was and i found it looks like the red/ purple wire. but after the disconnect and reconnect it wasn't as bad as it didn't spark so much now when i reconnected the positive terminal

    i cant seem to find the correct domestic engine pics to do testing as K447 suggested on https://sites.google.com/site/polari...omestic-engine as it looks a bit different to mine or which ski can i look at to get the correct diagram and tests for the sl 1050

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...it#post1539070 the red purple wire is in a different location to mine but this box is from a 2 cylinder domestic so might be why

    i still need to pull the jet pump to see maybe its putting strain on the starter or something causing the voltage drop

    id still like to find how to test the cdi and solenoid but i don't see for my specific ski

    thanks for the help and your patience
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  2. #12
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    Red/pur is the "Fused- battery feed/supply". It supplies power to the entire ski after the 15amp circuit breaker.

    Its a weird/simple setup. The red/pur is basically the stator power wire-after it enters the elect box, it has a split/"T"/"Y" that connects to the circuit breaker (small box in elct box) That is where it becomes the main power wire.Within like 4 inches there is another "Y" that will be for the CDI power. Another 5-6 inches it plugs into the terminal board, supplying power to the rest of the ski.
    The bullitin you referenced moves the CDI power wire from power all the time, to switched power on Orange terminal.

    The Gen1 ignition is the 96-99 domestic diag. We need to know if your stator meets those measurements.

    The "update" is the Gen3 ignition used 99-2004(stator was made to fit the earlier engines). And uses the later model diag. iF YOURS HAS the update stator to match your Gen3 CDI, stator readings will match Gen3 specs.

  3. #13
    Goku's Avatar
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    ok so i got to do some testing yesterday so making progress but no progress

    i tested the stator black grey doesn't register on my ohm meter and the black to purple is 6.4 ohms.

    i pulled my jet pump out it came out easy its the 5 blade plastic one which has a few chunks of plastic missing but should be ok for now i guess.

    i found that i now have a very small blue ish yellow white spark very small that comes on only when i release the start stop switch but small spark you see now and again just didn't see on middle cylinder

    cranking voltage on battery was 10.6 to 11.5v

    i tried to test starting then pressing the bilge pump switch but that didn't do anything other than turn the pump on.

    the stator cover says Polaris model WC105TCSP-02 SL not sure if that makes any difference to my setup

    does the small spark still mean that my cdi or stator is still an issue is it gen3

    i haven't done tried the jumper wire to orange yet as I don't see any clear pics on where and how to connect it if this will make a difference. "it did have the issue when warm wouldn't start till cold again"

    not sure now where to look.

    thanks

  4. #14
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goku View Post
    and the black to purple is 6.4 ohms.

    i pulled my jet pump out it came out easy its the 5 blade plastic one which has a few chunks of plastic missing but should be ok for now i guess.

    does the small spark still mean that my cdi or stator is still an issue is it gen3
    The 6.3 ohms means you have the update/Gen3 stator and will work with the CDI you have.

    Does the impeller spin easy ? Trying to find something not allowing the engine to spin easy.

    No, It still means you have a bad battery !
    The ignition system works on 12-15 volts of electricity, you do not have enough electricity. All the electricity comes from the battery.

    Releasing the start switch, starter stops drawing electricity, engine still spinning-now has JUST ENOUGH electricity to spark.

    Only other test is if the starter is going bad. Do you have a way to test the starter amperage ?

    A good battery is 1/2 the price of a stator.
    A good battery is 1/5-1/8 the cost of a CDI.
    At this point all your symptoms point to a weak battery.

  5. #15
    Goku's Avatar
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    The impeller spins reasonably easy i even tried with it out.

    how would i test the starter it seems to be turning fine. would need one of those meters to put over the starter cable to see what's the amps its pulling.

    i tried 2 different car batteries on the ski and they 12v 70amp/h and around 500+ cca which starts my diesel suv 4x4 ok its a lot bigger that the 12v 18 to 20 amp the ski had. and to import the recommended battery will cost more than the ski is worth os its over $500 so ill need to first make sure it starts before i get a decent battery to fit it.

    will the key switch not be causing a earth to prevent the spark or something else. i need to look at
    will i need to connect the 9v battery to see if it helps

    if i got the gen 3 cdi and stator its a relief but i don't think the 1 black wire was cut 1" from the electrical box or other mods as the ski doesn't have the jumper wire installed and it had the issue of not restarting when warm before it lost spark altogether

    ill use my smart charger on that batt to make sure its full and try do testing again just wondering what else i can test or look for.

    thanks

  6. #16
    casey67's Avatar
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    Do the battery cables get hot when cranking ? Should check every inch to make sure it doesnt have a bad segment. Does the starter get too hot to touch ?
    Yes, an amp meter that typically clamps around the cable.

    Spark releasing start button is a text book example of weak battery, Also proves ignition is capable of working.
    we like using the Deka brand (also rebranded) ETX16L. It may also be used in mid sized equipment.

    Have you checked cable ends are clean and tight ?
    Really need cranking voltage above 11v, at 10.6 it will not start in the water.

    Yeah, sorry I forgot to mention disconnecting the blk/yel stripe CDI wire. That is from the kill switch/stop button.
    Voltage at 8v on the CDI brown wire while cranking shows the CDI is turning on. Low voltage will make it not turn on, possibly low.

    The black battery wire delete was to prevent that wire overheating with bad black cable.
    The red/pur to orange mod is moving the CDI power from fused battery power to switch power. It needs to be running to determine if CDI needs to be reset.
    Low battery voltage also causes the same symptom.

  7. #17
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    What AGM batteries do you have available ?

  8. #18
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    This is the battery that was in the ski but didn't do its job well by the looks of it.

    ill try see what AGM battery's i can find online and bike or boat shops to see what they have to offer and ill try some battery places as well to see then ill post some.

    the MFD display doesn't work correctly is their a way to fix it or what might be the issue, it comes on but you cant see what modes its on when pressing the mode button its not clear and sometimes shows a half display, i pulled the plug on the back of the display and reconnected it it didn't do much. and im almost sure it showed a bit better when i first saw it, could this be a bad connection or just a faulty mfd
    if its faulty which models should fit it as it would be nice to see what the ski does.

    id also like to try see what mods on on the ski as the only thing i can see id the the center piston or sleeve was done as i can see its red is slightly pink instead or read and can see a different gasket.

    thanks
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  9. #19
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    Yeah, that looks like an electrical equipement type battery, engines like a kinda "sudden" power type battery.

    Polaris chose the battery for size and weight=what was commonly available.

    My friend used a Harley Davidson battery in his SLT,with minor modification.
    Your SL has a 1.05 liter engine.Water does add additional drag when cranking. I would guess a battery intended for a 2.0 liter road going vehicle should be strong enough.

    In the States we commonly use the automotive standard of "Cranking Amps" to judge batteries.
    Our Deka's are rated at 325 CA. My tester shows it having 500 CA. Explains its long term useability.

    Most important to always protect the Positive battery terminal from touching the aluminum electrical box, its grounded and WILL short out. Always cover the battery with plastic or thick rubber.

  10. #20
    Goku's Avatar
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    thanks,

    a lot of the agm battery's here are more for solar type use or inverters ect, this looks like one that they use in the Yamaha jetski here and see the sea doo is 30 amp vs this 18 amp but they look fong kong and not sure it will last like the last one so ill try find a decent batt to fit under the electrical box or ill make some mods to fit a bigger battery that can supply better starting cranks.

    i still need to do the jumper wire so that the ski doesn't have the restart issues that it had. also need to mod the exhaust pipe as it seems to be kinked quite badly from the waterbox to the outlet on the back of the ski im sure this will cause performance issues as well as over heating issues due to exhaust not breathing properly maybe i can get a pipe made up to fit better must just measure the size of the pipe

    then just the MFd to fix the faded numbers and then test the ski

    https://www.jetskifishingsa.co.za/in...tski-batteries

    https://www.takealot.com/sky-king-ge...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    https://www.takealot.com/j-l-yxt16-b...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

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