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  1. #1

    2002 Kawasaki 1100 STX DI Broken Oil Pump Throttle Control Cable

    Recently replaced fuel pump, had the emm rebuilt and replaced the stator. Had it out for the first time today. It ran fine for a long while then engine died and wouldn’t restart. It was trying to but the few times it started it was a weak idle and died almost right away. Once it ran for a few minutes at about 14 mph then when i backed off the throttle it died immediately. When I looked in the hull I noticed the oil pump line from the throttle control cable broke. Would that cause these problems such as the engine to not start or idle rough and die?

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    That doesn't sound good. Time for a compression test.

    The oil pump pulley should have a spring on it to make it go to full lubrication if the cable comes out, but perhaps yours isn't working for some reason.

    I went back and re-read your post about the missing spring and thought that perhaps you were describing the oil pump spring as the one you found, but I don't think it was. If the spring on the oil pump is broken (and I've seen one break) that could definitely cause it to run without oil if the cable comes off. And that could cause slack in the cable to allow it to come off.

    I don't have the links to the bearing replacement thread or the cooling mod thread with me right now. You can do a search for them. For now, I'm afraid that you may have bigger problems.

  3. #3
    Will go and get a compression test kit. In the meantime, it appears the oil pump did go wide open as it is still on a spring. I pulled the plugs and they don’t appear to look good. They were brand new and on have about two hours run time on them.
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  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    That looks REAL good! Looks like it was getting oil, which is the main thing. They're probably fouled to the point where it won't run good, but you can probably save them by cleaning with lacquer thinner or a glass bead cleaner. Otherwise replace them and I would bet that it runs a lot better.

  5. #5
    I tried cleaning the plugs and even bought new ones. And the ski doesn’t start. I did a compression test and am getting about 140, 150 and 150psi. A local jetski mechanic told me that a broken throttle cable wouldn’t effect it starting or not. I did squirt some fuel in each of the cylinders and it started ran for a few seconds and died. I pulled the fuel line and fuel definitely comes out at a good rate so the pump is working. Any ideas on why the ski won’t start? I keep going back to thinking once I replace the broken cable it should work but this guy doesn’t think so.


  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    Sounds like it's not getting fuel. Plugged injectors, perhaps?

    Could be a problem with the rebuilt EMM or something.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by molemansd View Post
    ... had the emm rebuilt and replaced the stator. ... ran fine for a long while then engine died and wouldn’t restart. ...
    Which company ‘rebuilt‘ the EMM?

    Is the stator genuine OEM or aftermarket?

    I am more familiar with the Ficht system on Polaris but the Ficht EMM used on Kawasaki PWC is broadly similar.

    On Polaris Ficht, for a no-start condition it is important the check the DC voltage feeding the fuel injectors while the engine is cranking, measured to engine ground. The catch is that this voltage must be measured with all connectors plugged in. You have to find a place to slip a thin wire or sewing pin in the back side of a connector to make contact. On Polaris the injector voltage must be more than 20 volts DC, while the engine is cranking.

    As soon as the Ficht engine starts the injector voltage should jump up to about 45 volts.

    If the voltage while cranking is below 20 volts typically there will be little or no actual fuel injection happening, and the engine will crank but not properly start.

    Once the engine does start the EMM immediately changes its internal configuration. If that switchover mode exposes a fault then the injector voltage may not stabilize at the higher 45 volt range and the engine runs very poorly or stops running.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by molemansd View Post
    ... squirt some fuel in each of the cylinders and it started, ran for a few seconds and died. ...
    That is a classic indication that the voltage to the fuel injectors is not high enough.

    On a Ficht engine the injectors are actually high pressure fuel pumps, electrically powered. When the injector is triggered it uses the high voltage to drive a solenoid rod and compress the fuel to several hundred PSI. That high pressure overcomes the spring for the poppet valve in the injector tip and the fuel sprays out. If the voltage is not over 20 volts the injector cannot develop the pressure needed to actually push fuel out the tip.

    Note that Ficht fuel injectors should NOT be operated without being clamped into the cylinder head. When laying loose they will just spew fuel from around/behind the tip.

    Ficht fuel injectors are entirely different from typical automotive fuel injectors. They work differently, are built differently, and the diagnostics are different.

    Do not continue to prime the engine with gasoline and start it for multiple tests, and certainly do not rev it repeatedly or ride it around after priming it to start. The same component failure inside the EMM that weakens the injector voltage also exposes the EMM power circuit board to further damage if the engine is run.

    There are some additional checks you can do regarding stator coil output voltages and possible short circuits. This link has info mostly for the Polaris version of Ficht but the Kawasaki implementation is similar.
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl....jected-engines

    If you determine the EMM is probably in need of repair, I can recommend the following EMM repair service.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post2917494

    The only other service still offering Ficht EMM repair for PWC is to be avoided.

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  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Which company ‘rebuilt‘ the EMM?

    Is the stator genuine OEM or aftermarket?
    Both fuel pump and stator are aftermarket. I have posted information with this reply. The EMM was rebuilt by Harris at Ficht EMM Repair in Tennessee. It didn’t work the first time and I had to send it back to him. It worked after he sent it back for a bit. Then I had a problem with the ski and he said to send it back. He put it in a test ski and said it fired the ski up no problem and sent it back. I reinstalled it, changed the stator then it worked for about an hour up until this point.
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  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    On Polaris Ficht, for a no-start condition it is important the check the DC voltage feeding the fuel injectors while the engine is cranking, measured to engine ground. The catch is that this voltage must be measured with all connectors plugged in. You have to find a place to slip a thin wire or sewing pin in the back side of a connector to make contact. On Polaris the injector voltage must be more than 20 volts DC, while the engine is cranking.

    As soon as the Ficht engine starts the injector voltage should jump up to about 45 volts.

    I stuck a couple paper clips in and tested each one. The multimeter registered a trickle of power , like .05 volts to each injector. I did not manually inject any more fuel to the cylinders so engine didn’t start. What would be the next component to check? The stator or the emm? Any recommendations for next steps.

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