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  1. #71
    I enjoyed reading this thread, especially the bits about comparing it to aircraft stuff, as a helicopter mechanic and crewman had me laughing.

    If you're able to, why wouldn't you replace it? This isn't a car where its something you absolutely must have and sometimes your financials don't allow you to go without it for a day or two waiting on parts. This is a RECREATIONAL vehicle and I have to assume everyone here is at least decently well off to purchase a 15k+ PWC... spend the money and replace the parts.

  2. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by badm0t0rfinger View Post
    I enjoyed reading this thread, especially the bits about comparing it to aircraft stuff, as a helicopter mechanic and crewman had me laughing.

    If you're able to, why wouldn't you replace it? This isn't a car where its something you absolutely must have and sometimes your financials don't allow you to go without it for a day or two waiting on parts. This is a RECREATIONAL vehicle and I have to assume everyone here is at least decently well off to purchase a 15k+ PWC... spend the money and replace the parts.
    most people aren't doing headgaskets on 15k skis, they are picking up 15 year old ones that need some loving to go riding.


  3. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by toxicgun View Post
    most people aren't doing headgaskets on 15k skis, they are picking up 15 year old ones that need some loving to go riding.
    Yes, absolutely a fair point! I think that is all the more reason to replace the parts. You don't know the abuse by the previous owner or skill level of the tech or shade tree mechanic before you. Perhaps they had a 500 dollar precision snap on torque wrench... perhaps they had an air gun that went uggadugga until it was good'n'tight.

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  5. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by badm0t0rfinger View Post

    If you're able to, why wouldn't you replace it?
    Because:

    1. There is no evidence out there that proves reused bolts are inferior to new bolts
    2. I ( and others) have personally seen instances of bad new bolts. In other words, simply replacing old with new is no insurance for improvement.
    3. Your going to spend over $100 with no solid benefit
    4. For stock engines, ARP studs don't provide any benefit over stock bolts, and may not work as well due to the need to recheck torque.

    BRP changed their manual guidance, why? Nobody knows or will fess up. It never appeared in the TSB, so they didn't want to publicize it. (probably, because if they did, everyone that had head gasket failures on 2002-2006 models would go back to BRP and want them to pay for the repairs)

    BRP, like most companies, never updates old manual with error corrections or improvements they learn throughout the years. Likely at this very moment, there is some poor bastard that is assembling a 1999 951 case halves using Loctite 518. There is some poor bastard tightening his impeller on a 2004 RXP to 59 ft lbs, not realizing he will be blowing up his beloved ski due to trashed thrust bearing in a few hours.

    Tribal knowledge, like learned here on this very forum, rules over BRP manuals. This is a good debate to be had.

  6. #75
    @Sea dood, perhaps I'm just using the standards from my line of work are bleeding into my views when working on a PWC.

    1. I disagree to a point, and there are plenty more nuanced posts [in this thread] regarding TTY and elasticity.
    2. That doesn't inherently mean that the practice of replacing old bolts with new ones is flawed, that to me shows a lack of Quality Control on the production line.
    3. I feel that his is a subjective statement. Plenty of people would feel like its more insurance on their fresh rebuild to use new parts than old. Perhaps its a placebo, but something to think about.
    4. I'm not advocating for ARP studs. I've used them in some of my project cars when I found the need, but I do agree bolts are the way to go on most stock applications.

    I understand your point completely; I find many times manuals are lacking in scope and often times behind the curve on making sure the tech or shade tree mechanic have the most up to date information. I'm looking at you Haynes.

    I will say from my own experience the manuals which must be used for ALL maintenance items will spell out EXACTLY when a bolt shall be replaced. The only time that its left up to techs discretion is when its something that has such a low torque application that you'd surpass it going just beyond finger tight. Those bolts are never on an engine item, more likely an avionics rack or a display unit bolt. Tribal knowledge is cool and all, but I would be weary of someone saying "thats just how its done"... and without trusted publications you're left between a rock and a hard place.

    I know there has already been exasperated posts regarding comparisons between aircraft and PWCs and I'm not trying to spin that whole conversation up again. I'm merely saying my piece and I cannot divorce my professional training from how I work on my own vehicles. I'm not even trying to say I'm correct with regards to PWC, I want to put it out there as a technician who deals with this kind of thing on a regular basis [in another field].

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