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Thread: Sticky Rings

  1. #11
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    Could this have happened because of an overheat? The slow no wake area I have to go through has been very bad this year, I noticed things have been worse than normal with the pump screens filling up. I don't even know if my overheat sensor works.


  2. #12
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    God I do love me some Klotz BēNol though!!! Mmmm mmmmm good!!!

  3. #13

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    that piston is lean to much heat on the top also there IS NO BETTER OIL THAN KLOTZ R50 for your Pro !!!

    I should say for Premix Skis not made for injected skis

  4. #14
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    I was running Super Techniplate, with the BeNOL. The R50 doesn't have it. The Benol leaves film everywhere, there was benol junk in the wrist pin, wrist pin bearing, etc. I'm gonna switch to R50 at the least. Going to have to see what I can do about the center and rear small end of the rods having some issues, see how bad the pitting is or if it's just some discoloration. I just had the crank redone in 2018 at crankworks, new rods, bearings, etc. I'm pretty sad to have to probably do it again but it's whatever.

    Definitely done with the Klotz benol. I don't like the film. Going with R50. I think center and rear over-heated. I still don't have that pro running with watcon cooling, so the front cylinder still has the bigger restricter in it and it's the only one that was fine. In fact it looks really good. I have to ride through a crappy, slow no wake area to get to ride. It's been full of lots of nasty stuff this year and I think it's very likely my cooling screen was clogged just enough to cause problems.

    Gonna take her apart, see what I can do, then start over with carb tuning (nice and fat to start), go through the carbs clean and inspect, then switch to oil with no benol so I can see what the hell is going on on the top of my pistons. This crap gas lies to you so much now when reading plugs. No matter what it sounds like overheat or too lean, and the plugs looked good but who knows with the garbage fuel we have now. It almost looks like the benol was cooking before it got to the combustion chamber. Looks like I got my winter project I wanted so badly.

  5. #15
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    I took the rear carb apart, the fuel pump diaphragm was distorted, like it's trying to pull more fuel than it can get and it's being stressed and bowing out. The diaphragms aren't that old, I just look apart the fuel pump on my SJ that has the same carb and the diaphragm was perfect, and it has way more hours.

    Obviously I need to go through the fuel system from the carb to the bottom of the fuel tank, but is there anything people have done about this? I noticed it feels like these diaphragms wear out really quickly on my pros, the other one is doing it too. It's almost like the single fuel pickup line in the fuel sender is not big enough to drive the two fuel pumps. I noticed hyoctane ran dual fuel pickups and larger fuel pumps. I was thinking of at least adding two fuel pick ups.

    Any thoughts?

  6. #16
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    I got some time to do a serious inspection. It definitely got too hot, without a doubt. I don't know about too lean, I went through the fuel system and noticed that the fuel selector valve spigot broke off when I was maybe a little rough removing the fuel tank, so it may have had a crack that was letting air in. The check valve for the fuel tank seemed to be pretty stuck. The one that goes on the steering column. I got it unstuck.

    The damage was pretty minimal considering how hot it seems like it got. I ordered two new rods and will ship the whole thing off to crankworks or Northern Crankshaft when the rods show up. The benol and super techniplate probably saved me a lot of damage, the center cylinder should hone right out, there's not much damage and it's low on the cylinder walls, below the ports. It might even not really be damage and just piston left on the walls.

    I will have to bore out the one that is sleeved one size over, maybe two. I definitely don't feel safe putting wisecos into the non-sleeved and bored cylinders with the 750 pistons being bigger (since I have to run 750 pistons in all cylinders and the 750 are bigger). That is four point seizure time very quickly. .05mm is about .002 and that will cause some serious problems with wiseco forged pistons, they always want to be loose as a goose or they stick. Even in warm water.

    Is everyone running WSM 750 pistons still happy with them? A lot of old threads went with them but I just want to make sure.

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