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  1. #21
    radio-active's Avatar
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    The "Q" in the spark plug designation indicates it's an inductor plug, rather than a resistor plug.

    Both inductors and resistors are used for EMC mitigation. Both have different effects on the spark waveform.

    Inductor plugs will generally produce a lower energy spark front because the inductor limits the rise time of the voltage waveform. This reduces the sharp edges of the waveform, reducing EMC. Sharp edges are what cause harmonics and ringing that can cause test failures.

    Resistors limit the current thru the spark plug, but are generally tuned to still produce an adequate spark of overall lower amplitude. Overall spark energy is reduced. (not necessarily a bad thing).

    Polaris does not specify inductor plugs for the MSX140 engine. They are physically compatible plugs, with that long ceramic, prone-to-failure insulator, but the ignition system was not characterized with an inductor plug.

    Generally inductor plugs are a little more expensive and only used when EMC radiated emission levels can't be met with a resistor plug. But the international standard levels are higher for boats and watercraft, and the levels can typically be met without resorting to inductor plugs.

    I tried lots of various plugs -- inductor and resistor -- in Polaris vehicles during my tenure in the Polaris EMC lab. (All ground based vehicles). Never had to resort to an inductor plug for production -- I always managed to get the vehicle to meet the EMC radiated emission levels thru other methods.

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  3. #22
    Oh the good times we have
    Spent the whole afternoon drilling out frozen nut certs for the cowl covers and the steering column.
    if it wasn't for all the frozen hardware its not a difficult of a job.
    My tank is full of crud and the fuel pump filters are all completely plugged.
    the pump I have might be good and was straining causing the current to rise but I will change it out regardless.
    no other issues like the check vale falling out
    Now to search for the filters.

  4. #23
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    The fuel pressure regulator mounting MUST be repaired as part of this job. It's not optional.

  5. #24
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GFrank View Post
    Oh the good times we have
    Spent the whole afternoon drilling out frozen nut certs for the cowl covers and the steering column.
    if it wasn't for all the frozen hardware its not a difficult of a job.
    My tank is full of crud and the fuel pump filters are all completely plugged.
    the pump I have might be good and was straining causing the current to rise but I will change it out regardless.
    no other issues like the check vale falling out
    Now to search for the filters.

    Often, I can get a vise grip on the nutsert from the underside, for the cowl bolts. I always cinch up the nutserts with a bolt/nut/washer and utilize anti-seize on the threads when re-assembling. It is common for the steering support tube bolts to gall into the threads of the "T" nuts. I just grind off the bolt head when this happen. As you found out, stainless does not drill easy and is hard on bits. The bolts that serves as the steering stop has a nylock nut over the "T" nut. If the "T" nuts spun in the plastic, you'll need to trim some plastic from the support column and to allow for a washer. See this thread for details, post #18.

    The pleated filter, at the bottom of the canister, is available from Summit Racing. Carter PN: STS-200. The other filters can cleaned, but I believe bfarnam found a place to source them if they are damaged/not cleanable. Check his recent thread titled something to the effect of restoring a Virage Txi or PM him.

  6. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by HiPeRcO View Post
    The fuel pressure regulator mounting MUST be repaired as part of this job. It's not optional.
    Oh yes this is my task for this afternoon and to clean out any debris in the gas tank.

  7. #26
    martincom's Avatar
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    As you have seen, it does not take much to plug the pump intake screen. I pump the tank dry as much as possible. Next, I mop out the rest with paper towels. I let it dry, then wipe out the inside of the tank with a tack rage (normally used for woodworking finish and available where they sell paint.)

  8. #27
    radio-active's Avatar
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    Typically a pump (or fan) that is unable to pump fluid (or air) will draw less current than one working normally. Not intuitive, I know, but think about it.... if it can't pump, it's not doing any work.

  9. #28
    Just wanted to update you all and again Thank you for all the help
    Got everything reinstalled and all the cowling fasteners repaired and replaced.
    The ski fired right up and fuel pressures are 21/40.
    Now to just get a chance to take it to a lake thats pretty much a all day excursion from my place.
    I could back down the trailer with the ski attached at the marina and run it till it gets up to operating temp
    to see if my problem is totally solved. Its very close by but I would have to deal with cleaning out the salt water.


  10. #29
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GFrank View Post
    ...
    The ski fired right up and fuel pressures are 21/40.

    ...
    I could back down the trailer with the ski attached at the marina and run it till it gets up to operating temp
    to see if my problem is totally solved. Its very close by but I would have to deal with cleaning out the salt water.
    $) PSI fuel pressure?
    Is that with the return fuel hose clamped off? Seems rather high for an OEM Ficht fuel pump

    Salt water isnít that big a deal for a single short term test exposure. Just rinse everything really well afterwards, including the jet pump. And flush the cooling system with garden hose. If salt water gets inside the bilge, rinse all that too.

  11. #30
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GFrank View Post
    ...
    The ski fired right up and fuel pressures are 21/40.

    ...
    I could back down the trailer with the ski attached at the marina and run it till it gets up to operating temp
    to see if my problem is totally solved. Its very close by but I would have to deal with cleaning out the salt water.
    40 PSI fuel pressure? Is that with the return fuel hose clamped off?
    Seems rather high for an OEM Ficht fuel pump

    Salt water isnít that big a deal for a single short term test exposure. Just rinse everything really well afterwards, including the jet pump. And flush the cooling system with garden hose. If salt water gets inside the bilge, rinse all that too.

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