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  1. #1

    1999 Seadoo GTX RFI cranks but no start

    Hello everyone, after extensive searches regarding my issue,im to the point where I need help and decided to register and become a member. I have a 1999 seadoo GTX RFI I picked up from a friend of mine and at the time it kept killing the battery when he used it. After troubleshooting, I replaced the stator and put a fresh new battery and made sure the rectifier was working and all was good. Ive been riding it for the past 4 months with zero issues until my son took it out on the lake and after an hr of riding it went completely dead. Towed it back to shore, got clicking when tried to start and had hi temp warning in cluster. let it cool down, tried to start, dead battery. brought it home, charged battery overnight, next morning,it would crank like before, but this time no start. Checked all fuses,all good, checked for spark, got good spark in both cylinders, replaced plugs, same issue.Compression was 130 both cylinders. Can hear fuel pump when dess key is on, figured wasnt holding fuel pressure and replaced fuel pump which my buddy had gave me. same issue. pulled fuel rail to see what the injectors were doing, minimal spray, but not sure on 2 strokes how different it is to my RXP 4 stroke. Thinking its a fuel issue, I poured a teaspoon of premix fuel in each cylinder and still will not start. I checked the voltage at the injector harness pin and was only getting 5,7 volts with dess key on. regardless, I would think by putting fuel in cylinders, it would try to run, NOTHING! I checked the fuses with a volt meter at the mpem with dess key on, and all have 0 volts(there are 2 for starter circuit and 1 for mpem protection). I dont know where to go with this, If it was a fuel issue, I would think by putting fuel into the cylinders I would get something, or a backfire or something, I get nothing. I pulled the plugs out after excessive cranking and I would imagine they should be saturated in fuel and smell like fuel and its not the case. two things im stumped on, is when dont I get voltage reading at the fuses at the mpem and the voltage at the injector harness isnt reading 12.8 volts. Any help is TRUELY appreciated! Ive read about rotary valve issues etc, but for it to die all of a sudden probably due to running on battery power being battery was dead, but why now a no start with a freshly charged battery? I hooked up my Candoo pro and had no codes peratining to my issue other than a p0335 which is normal if the ski isnt running through the diagnosis. HELP!!!


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    try some carriage returns

    that shizz

    is

    too tough

    to read

    thru

    hint-rotary valve gear failed

  3. #3
    My bad, sorry about that, So here is the update, I took the motor out and took the rotary cover off and I was under the assumption that if the brass gear was stripped, id be able to rotate the shaft by hand, thats not the case. The rotary shaft turns in sync with the crank when turning the crank. Other than a couple of score marks on the face of the housing, everything looks good. Should I still pull the rotary shaft out? How else would I be able to confirm it is the rotary gear? Thanks for the help thus far!

  4. #4
    Pulled the rotary shaft out and nothing wrong with the brass gear! Next ill pull the flywheel and see if the woodruff key is sheered. After that, im really stumped if that checks out ok!

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    the next step was to check to rotary valve timing, but since you've torn it down, we can take that off the table, but perhaps your rv housing is damaged.

    please post a picture of both sides of the rotary valve compartment, the crankcase side and the cover.

    any gouges that go from port to port could be a problem, allowing air leakage off time

    right now given you've confirmed spark and compression my best guess is too much damage on the cover

    these are tricky to diagnose, could be a failed crank seal or leaky crankcase

    typically tossing a little premix down the jugs will get you something like a bang or two or some smoke

    get some good pics at a slight angle.

    if you can catch your fingernail in the grooves and they run port to port that would be a sure tell.

    having a candoo is vital to the proper diagnosis of a rfi.

    often people mix up the injection rail connector with the coil connector

    sorry for all the extra effort pulling the engine, I know your anxious to get her back, but that's a whole bunch of extra work and expense on time and gaskets

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    the next step was to check to rotary valve timing, but since you've torn it down, we can take that off the table, but perhaps your rv housing is damaged.

    please post a picture of both sides of the rotary valve compartment, the crankcase side and the cover.

    any gouges that go from port to port could be a problem, allowing air leakage off time

    right now given you've confirmed spark and compression my best guess is too much damage on the cover

    these are tricky to diagnose, could be a failed crank seal or leaky crankcase

    typically tossing a little premix down the jugs will get you something like a bang or two or some smoke

    get some good pics at a slight angle.

    if you can catch your fingernail in the grooves and they run port to port that would be a sure tell.

    having a candoo is vital to the proper diagnosis of a rfi.

    often people mix up the injection rail connector with the coil connector

    sorry for all the extra effort pulling the engine, I know your anxious to get her back, but that's a whole bunch of extra work and expense on time and gaskets
    I do have a Candoo Pro, but I didn't have any fault codes. So here are a few pics per request, and in fact I do have grooves port to port, on the face of the block and on the RV cover. Also there was approx. 2 gallons of mixed fluids at the bottom of the hull, combination of water and 2 stroke oil is my guess. Where would it leak from if it was a crank seal? Everything is dry in the flywheel area.

    https://imgur.com/a/t8lk5KK
    What do I do in this situation?

  7. #7
    the link was working, now its not, grrrrrrrrrr! What are you guys using to be able to post pics on here?
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    Last edited by jroptop; 08-24-2020 at 05:47 PM.

  8. #8
    Finally got the pics to post! Thanks Pete! So by the looks of it all, looks like im going to have to find a decent used case and teardown and most likely rebuild the whole thing. Pertaining to the large amount of water/fluid in the hull, it could have been build up over the years and not getting completely drained with the plugs out
    Last edited by jroptop; 08-24-2020 at 06:43 PM.

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    just one more question before I pass judgement here...

    engine hours on the meter showing over 250?

    the gouges on the RV cavity indicate at one time there was debris bouncing around the engine ( typically a broken ring or bit of a piston) and just looking at this damage I would say the cases are toast. The damage is above average and the gouges look quite deep

    sbt does offer the rv _cover_ on an exchange basis but the rv is a super precision bit on the engine and in your OP you indicated an overheat condition which may have been caused by the loss of air/fuel charge creating a lean condition. Might have damage to the crank seals too.

    set of used cases seem to go for around $200 on ebay.

    it's quite a bit to repair, is the ski nice on cosmetics?

    twenty year old skis are a toss up on repair/part out.

    book is around $1200 for a runner

    when you browse ebay you'll see what the rv valve surface on the cases are supposed to look like

    you got a couple of months out of this one

    getting a runner and keeping this one for spares is one option, but since the engine is already out, might as well pull the jugs and have a look and see if you want to go ahead with some used cases.

    you'll be in at least $500+ in parts before you're all done and then all the labor. I suspect you have damage to the top end to.

    put it to you this way, if you rolled into my shop to get this fix, I'd advise you strongly not to do it

    I'm sure over the next few days some other guys will come along to provide opinions if mine is a bit hard to swallow

    like the gunny, I am hard, but I am also fair.

  10. #10
    Truely appreciate the in depth diagnosis. Being I purchased it for $500 trailer included and all I put into it was a stator, im not in it deep at all. Cosmetically its in mint condition. I guess at this point ill have to decide if a rebuild and used case is worth it. Ive seen the same machine in our area sell between $2500-$2800. Or I may just put the motor back in it and sell it as is and letting the buyer know it needs a motor.

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