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  1. #11
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StevoH@O View Post
    Man that sounds like a ton of work!!
    Oh yes! Never ending. Folks often ask me how the fishing is. To which I reply, "I wouldn't have a clue. I live on a lake. Therefore, I don't have time to fish."

    I still have the dock to remove. I usually wait until sometime in early November to do that. It is an 80' roll out, so it takes up quite a bit of room in the yard and is a pain to work around when doing leaves----and we have a lot of those. The plus side of the roll out is I can do that myself. I need help with the PWC lifts, swim raft and the slide. I use to have a neighbor that was pretty stout and the two of us could carry each of the two place lifts, w/canopy and vinyl in place in/out. Those days are over. I now need two neighbor boys and their father for each one. The stout neighbor moved away to TN. I wonder if I had anything to do with his decision to leave?


  2. #12
    StevoH@O's Avatar
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    Update - #1 will only fire briefly and will not stay running at idle any longer. Going to attack the fuel pump to see of that filter is clogged. It was reading 18 PSI on the schrader valve.
    #2 I need a stronger battery as it is not turning over fast enough and the display is blinking due to lack of power.

  3. #13
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    #2 has no RPM movement on display when turning over. It just sits on the bottom of the RPM scale reading.

  4. #14
    martincom's Avatar
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    #1

    Often, they will start and idle when the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) has fallen off---no fuel pressure. The injectors will pump some fuel on their own. Your reported symptoms are typical of a failed EMM. Check the DC voltage on the white/red wire (21/45 vdc supply) while cranking with a good battery. It should be approximately 21 vdc while cranking and 45 vdc while running.

    #2

    Check the DC voltage on the white/red wire on this PWC, also.

    If they are not OK, unplug the stator harness from the EMM (12 pin plug) and check the AC voltages as set forth in the attachment.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2003 Polaris DI Service Info.pdf  

  5. #15
    StevoH@O's Avatar
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    Well broke into the fuel pump and here are some pics of what I found.


    The last pic was the gunk in the bottom of the fuel tank. I have cleaned that out. However, I wrecked the orange rubber gasket in the bottom of that circular filter. Where can I purchase just the filter? The pressure valve was still in place. We tested the pump in a bucket of water and it pumped well. So fuel delivery is getting checked off.

    I am concerned that the EMM may have gone out causing all that sudden hesitation at throttle applied speeds. Question - can I harvest the EMM from the other machine? Are the injectors matched to each EMM ? Or can I just perform a swap and see what happens? Appreciate all the advice.

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    Last edited by StevoH@O; 09-13-2020 at 07:16 PM. Reason: get pic in there

  6. #16
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StevoH@O View Post
    ... fuel pump ... We tested the pump in a bucket of water and it pumped well. ...

    ... can I harvest the EMM from the other machine? Are the injectors matched to each EMM ?
    Or can I just perform a swap and see what happens? ...
    Do not leave any water inside the fuel pump. The steel pump parts inside can rust quickly.

    Pump some mineral spirits or similar through to clear all the water out. Do this sooner than later.

    Tip for others: If you want to flow test a Ficht fuel pump use mineral spirits in place of gasoline.
    Less explosive than gasoline and will not cause corrosion, unlike water.


    For testing purposes you certainly can swap EMM between engines. Just do not run the engine long and hard with mismatched EMM + injectors. Engines must have the same number of cylinders.

    If you decide to test swap injectors, first mark them with which cylinder and which engine they came from. Mixed up injectors when the work is complete is a no-no.

  7. #17
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    Got it. I actually have mineral spirits here for cleaning paint brushes so I will hit that in the morning. So I should swap out the EMM and number and mark the fuel injectors as well. I can do that. I need to make sure I torque the injectors down correctly.

    Any ideas on the circular filter - let me know as I am nervous about using the old one with that orange tab torn off.

  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StevoH@O View Post
    ... So I should swap out the EMM and number and mark the fuel injectors as well. I can do that. I need to make sure I torque the injectors down correctly. ...
    Just the EMM can be swapped over for testing purposes. It will work just fine with ‘mis-matched‘ injectors. Just don’t take it out on the lake for a long hard fast wide open run.

    Engine starts, revving up, and even short test rides on the water are just fine.

  9. #19
    StevoH@O's Avatar
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    OK I may try to pull the fuel pump out of the other unit and see if that filter is in better shape. Then I can reassemble and try the other EMM. Will have to leave for home tomorrow so this gives me a manageable group of tasks to get after.

    Appreciate the quick ideas and responses. Frost supposed to come in tonight.

  10. #20
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    Be sure to reinforce the fuel pressure regulator, utilizing the hose barb method, whether it is still in place or not. It is not if it will fall out, but when.

    Another member had posted a possible replacement source for the filter you seek. I messaged him this morning as to if it actually fit and, if so, where he sourced it. If not, I have a used canister I can salvage one from.

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