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  1. #11
    I forgot to ask -- regarding running these dry -- without water running through the hose connection.. I gather you can run them dry a little but for how long before water should be applied? What is the water doing -- is it cooling the engine or something else? I don't want to do anything that will mess things up.. thx!!

  2. #12
    Yes they need water for cooling. Don't run them out of the water for more than 15-20 second and then you will have to let them cool off before running them again.

  3. #13
    The first thing you should do is go find a running yamaha 500 wave runner and take it for a test drive and then test drive another ski the mid 1990s for comparison. You will find that by the mid 1990's that skis had 2-3 times the horsepower and relatively decent handing.

    If after the test drive you are bored and like tinkering and do not expect any return on the time and money you put into these skis, then continue on.


  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by camper357 View Post
    The first thing you should do is go find a running yamaha 500 wave runner and take it for a test drive and then test drive another ski the mid 1990s for comparison. You will find that by the mid 1990's that skis had 2-3 times the horsepower and relatively decent handing.

    If after the test drive you are bored and like tinkering and do not expect any return on the time and money you put into these skis, then continue on.
    People are enjoying the open waters with an intex rubber boat and 2hp motor. And there is nothing wrong with that.

    Some even with a kayak.
    And for a midage person you usually don't have time to rebuild a supercharger every 100 hours.
    Any ski is better than no ski.

    If you have kids they will love it. If you want to be a hardcore pwc guy you can pickup a 150hp machine later.

    So it's like 125-250 cc starter bike.

  5. #15
    Nothing hardcore about something just a few years newer like a stone cold reliable 1993 waverunner 701 with a whopping 60 horsepower that does not handle like a 2x4 with handlebars. Still cheap in comparison to newer skis, and actually worth fixing if something breaks.

    A rubber raft will seem like a good deal after buying new electronics for the 500.



    Quote Originally Posted by waverunnerlx650 View Post
    People are enjoying the open waters with an intex rubber boat and 2hp motor. And there is nothing wrong with that.

    Some even with a kayak.
    And for a midage person you usually don't have time to rebuild a supercharger every 100 hours.
    Any ski is better than no ski.

    If you have kids they will love it. If you want to be a hardcore pwc guy you can pickup a 150hp machine later.

    So it's like 125-250 cc starter bike.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by camper357 View Post
    Nothing hardcore about something just a few years newer like a stone cold reliable 1993 waverunner 701 with a whopping 60 horsepower that does not handle like a 2x4 with handlebars. Still cheap in comparison to newer skis, and actually worth fixing if something breaks.

    A rubber raft will seem like a good deal after buying new electronics for the 500.
    I have a 650lx and a xl1200 Ltd, and I still enjoy my 650 alot.
    It's not for everyone, and it's almost like a early superjet with a seat, but it can be your gateway to this hobby both mechanically and improve your riding skills.or just for fun.

    If I started on a more complicated ski I would have dumped this hobby, . When I started I had zero knowledge about marine stuff, now I can fix anything pwc related.
    But to be fair I have a decent amount of automative knowledge.

    For compression an air-cooled bettle is slooow . The suspension is made of wood and the steering play is crazy. But it's still fun to ride.
    URAL motorcycles are shi++u in every aspect but still fun to ride.
    Even HD a million cc for a few hp. Again still fun to ride.

  7. #17
    ok.. Carb rebuilt kit question .. I see two varieties.. One has the SPR on the end of the title and tends to run about $50-60.. the one without the SPR runs about $15-20.. I'm leaning towards the SPR version since things are unknown on these boats.. is there any reason to buy the cheap one?

  8. #18
    OK. I’m working on the 500 F that has been modified I believe. I started on this one because I need to figure out the power for the battery. The only two cables I found were both red for the battery. So I took apart the electronics box to figure things out.

    There is a Hitachi A104-136 starter solenoid that both red wires connect to. This looks stock to me. I don’t see any aftermarket cdi module like I expected.. when I google the hitachi part I found a wiring diagram that seems to indicate that one red wire goes to the starter and the other to the positive lead of the battery as expected.. if that’s that case, why is there NO ground lead anywhere on this boat? Hmm

    ok.. further looking revealed the missing ground cable.. just laying in the bottom of the boat.. I’m now of the opinion that there’s NO starter in this thing hence the two disconnected cables that should be connected to the starter. Ugg.

    I guess I’ve got to remove parts of the engine to access the starter location which I’m assuming is behind the battery box.. doh!! Let the fun ensue!!
    Last edited by Ps91rick; 08-21-2020 at 10:44 PM.

  9. #19
    If anyone has general guidance on installing the starter and what kind of bolts should be on it, Iím all ears. Iíve yet to actually ďseeĒ the spot where it goes but I know where it is and without having the engine out of the boat I just canít see anything. Iím hoping I can pull the exhaust (?) part off the engine to expose the area beneath where the starter lives. Iím REALLY hoping there are bolts down there and I donít need to find some.. Iíve got a used starter that was given to me when I bought the boat and was told it was a spare.. NOT exactly!! Lol

  10. #20
    So I found a write up someone did regarding changing the starter on these boats. Sounded like a big pain to get the exhaust manifold off (or whatever its called) .. I was looking at the service manual and I’m REALLY considering just removing the entire engine — pull the carb, disconnect cooling hose + exhaust hose, coupling cover and engine mounting bolts.. that way I can also look over the engine a bit closer and check the under engine areas and whatnot.. Seems like it’ll be easier than ripping the exhaust manifold off with the hard to reach lock-tite’d bolts... IMHO. That way I can also check the jet unit for its play and whether it spins freely.. I did flip the boat and it looks about as expected underneath — typical wear for probably being beached a million times, but the jet unit bottom looks pretty darned clean except for the dozens of spider webs and no I’m not sticking my hand in there — this is black widow territory..

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