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  1. #1
    lau-de's Avatar
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    just another MSX150 engine rebuild

    Hello everyone,
    my name is Stanislav, I live in Germany and I have bought a nice silver/black MSX 150 with 103 hours (though being purchased in Italy and considering the overall condition I would rather trust the hourage, the vehicle was just a little sloppily treated) - knowing that it needs an engine rebuild (low compression on both cylinders). Yesterday I have succeeded to remove and disassemble the engine; the crankshaft, balance shaft, rods and its bearings/journals have minimal wear, valves and valvetrain seem intact, only nikasil plating in the upper part of cylinders is damaged as well as the pistons walls. I decided to put new sleeves and replace the pistons. I have read through almost all engine rebuild threads and still have a few questions. I believe these could be answered assuming the amount of experience in Weber engines collected by the greenhulk community

    1) are there any other sources of new pistons besides weberpower? (we have two dealers of Weber parts here in Germany too, but the original pistons are also pricey as on weberpower ) some users seem to get used to the CP or Wiseco pistons, but their catalogs cover only 2-stroke Polaris engines... I think if I got a job/order number by CP or Wiseco I would re-order it
    2) After the engine block is sleeved can the OEM pistons' rings be installed or are they too hard and only suitable for a nikasil surface?
    3) With the engine removed do I still need the PW-46593 tool to replace both bearing carrier seals or can I pull the driveshaft through into the engine compartment?


  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to GreenHulk!
    Cool to read of an overseas MSX!

    1. On one of my Weber rebuilds I did because of failed nikasil plating, I found the pistons in re-usable condition. I only tracked down some new rings... which WeberPower sells (not sure if still does). On another rebuild I went with Wiseco pistons (also sold by WeberPower). If on a budget, I would get a set of used good condition pistons (I picked up a set of clean ones off Ebay earlier this year). Then buy just a new set of rings for them. The Weber engine was also used in the Polaris snow-mobiles (FST and IQ turbo)... and those pistons will also work in the MSX.

    2. My rebuilds have all been sleeved engines. The OEM piston rings from Weber work fine on steel sleeves.

    3. With the engine removed, you do not need the tool. Simply leave the pump-side coupler attached to the driveshaft and slide the whole driveshaft out through the inner hull. Rebuild your through-hull carrier (bearing and seals)... the be sure to put the driveshaft back into position BEFORE putting the engine back in the hull. This is how I prefer to do it... if the engine is coming out. If your driveshaft is damaged (worn badly) and you need to get the coupler off... then you will likely need the tool. Removing the coupler off the driveshaft is a major pain.

    Cheers!

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  4. #3
    lau-de's Avatar
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    thanks for the tip, have ordered a pair of Wiseco FST/IQ pistons 40021M08500
    but I've noticed that all sellers give the compression ratio as of 8.5:1, but the service manuals of MSX and FST mean 9.0:1
    could it be an issue?..
    Last edited by lau-de; 08-18-2020 at 04:46 PM.

  5. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lau-de View Post
    thanks for the tip, have ordered a pair of Wiseco FST/IQ pistons 40021M08500
    but I've mentioned that all sellers give the compression ratio as of 8.5:1, but the service manuals of MSX and FST mean 9.0:1
    could it be an issue?..

    No issue with those pistons. I'm also running Wiseco pistons (probably same ones) that are also 8.5:1 in my MSX and it runs great.

    Cheers!

  6. #5
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
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    I have built 5 motors with weisco pistons. They are 8.5/1 and work fine.

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  8. #6
    lau-de's Avatar
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    the axial und radial plays of my turbocharger seem to be out of tolerance some intake blades are bumped and oil film in exhaust part

    Rip,
    you mentioned in some posts you have succesfully retrofitted a VW/Audi turbo in one of your MSX vehicles;
    was it a 1.8T AWT engine charger? does the core assemly just fit into original Weber housing?
    if you have some pictures of your setup they would be very helpful
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  9. #7
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear of your turbo troubles.

    I have replaced a bad turbo with a good used MSX turbo before.

    And I have replaced a different bad turbo with this turbo:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-MSX150-MSX-150-MSX110-MSX-110-Turbo-Turbocharger-NEW-UPGRADED/291924562659?hash=item43f80f52e3:g:Wl8AAOSw5dNWjTq t


    Slightly larger compressor housing... but is a direct replacement for the MSX compressor/center-cartridge. Works great on my MSX. Works with all the stock pieces (airbox, hoses, etc.).

    Cheers!

  10. #8
    lau-de's Avatar
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    turbocharger rebuild shop in my vicinity quoted me 230 EUR for (original) 5303 970 0077 Weber cartridge built of Melett/Wabtec parts and balanced by him so I'll take it...
    Last edited by lau-de; 08-19-2020 at 07:12 AM.

  11. #9
    lau-de's Avatar
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    is the PW-46592 alignment coupler also cone-shaped inside (2 inch to 0,71) to fit the tapered end of 871343 alignment tool or has through-hole 20mm diameter?
    a friend of mine works in a company specialized for hydraulic solutions; they have 6 meter long chromed steel precise blanks so he could turn me tool and coupler...

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  12. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lau-de View Post
    is the PW-46592 alignment coupler also cone-shaped inside (2 inch to 0,71) to fit the tapered end of 871343 alignment tool or has through-hole 20mm diameter?
    The alignment coupler tool has an opening to snuggly fit the tapered smaller end of the alignment rod.
    Most of us use the old Polaris solid metal couplers (found in most pre '96) which while splined, have inner diameter the same as the tool.

    If you are making your own coupler tool and rod... you could make the coupler tool accept the full 20mm so you don't have to taper the rod.

    Cheers!

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