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  1. #11

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    A complete SBT engine is about $1600 plus shipping. With gaskets, break in oil, etc. you will be out about $2000 to get it back on the water. Engine removal and installation is pretty simple.

    https://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/kawas...1999-2005.html


  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
    A complete SBT engine is about $1600 plus shipping. With gaskets, break in oil, etc. you will be out about $2000 to get it back on the water. Engine removal and installation is pretty simple.

    https://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/kawas...1999-2005.html
    From what Iíve read they arenít reliable unless someone says they got 4 hrs out of one
    so here is the question a reman crank de bore the pistons removing the nicasil new larger pistons rods etc clean up the carb and what ever else is needed.
    miss it worth it for 3000 guy that would do it has a big rep my way for stellar work so I feel it gets done right

    find a donor engine or a new engine
    or scrap it for parts
    i want to keep it but at the end of the day I donít want to be facing this for a few years

    what are your thoughts

  3. #13

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    $3000 is a lot to put into a ski that may not even be worth $3000.

    I put an SBT motor in my old Polaris 750 this summer. The ski has never ran as good as it does right now. I can't say how well they do with Kawi's but SBT has these old Polaris triples down.

    For $3000 are you getting rebuilt carbs, new fuel pump, new fuel lines, new reeds, rebuilt fuel selector valve, and the labor to install it all? If so it may be worth the effort. If $3000 just gets you the short block then I might start looking for another ski.

    The season is winding down. Skis will be for sale cheaper here soon.

  4. #14
    I agree that SBT seems to be hit or miss in terms of reliability. From what I have read here they use very cheap parts. With that said many people have had good luck with their motors and they do come with one free replacement warranty.

    With that said I would rebuild it. At least tear it down so you know how much actually needs to be replaced. If your not comfortable or just don't want to do this yourself that is completely understandable. You might only need a rebuilt crank, one cylinder, piston + ring set and all the gaskets required. Then again you might need all three cylinders and possibly even more. Tearing it down would answer a lot of questions. You can break down the cylinders with the motor still in the ski. Removing the water inlet pipe is the most difficult part with it in the ski and even that isn't too difficult. Once you have it broken down you will know a lot more and then you can decide what to do.

  5. #15
    steve45's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear you blew the engine, but it's not uncommon.

    As it is, there are a few parts that have significant value: display ($300 in good condition), jet pump ($300 in good condition), water pipe ($100 with no corrosion), expansion chamber ($150 with no corrosion), mirrors ($50 each in good condition), crankcase ($500? in good condition), fuel level sender ($100 in working condition). This does NOT mean that the 'Ski is worth about $1500. This is if you part it out, box up the pieces, and sell them on Ebay. The seat may be perfect, but it will cost about $140 to ship it. Same with other large items like the fuel tank. There are lots of 150s out there with blown engines, so there are lots of parts on the market. The carbs might be worth something, but it's very likely that there is a problem with the that caused the meltdown, along with the original meltdown. Overhauling the carbs is expensive. My nephew bought a 150 in similar condition for $500.

    I would not go with an SBT engine on a 'Ski that I wanted to keep. Likewise, I would go with plated cylinders, not sleeved. I like OEM pistons, gaskets, etc.

    The key thing on the 1200 engine is that it's running close to the edge. Everything has to be right. You need to run the Triple Pisser mod so you can monitor cooling water flow to each cylinder. The lube system has to be right, with good hose properly secured, and each hose has to go to the correct place. The carbs have to be right. This engine will not tolerate running lean. If it ever starts running funny, STOP! Tow it back if you can, or idle back and figure out what's wrong before you do anymore damage.

    Good luck with it. If you decide to attempt an overhaul, we're here to help.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    Sorry to hear you blew the engine, but it's not uncommon.

    As it is, there are a few parts that have significant value: display ($300 in good condition), jet pump ($300 in good condition), water pipe ($100 with no corrosion), expansion chamber ($150 with no corrosion), mirrors ($50 each in good condition), crankcase ($500? in good condition), fuel level sender ($100 in working condition). This does NOT mean that the 'Ski is worth about $1500. This is if you part it out, box up the pieces, and sell them on Ebay. The seat may be perfect, but it will cost about $140 to ship it. Same with other large items like the fuel tank. There are lots of 150s out there with blown engines, so there are lots of parts on the market. The carbs might be worth something, but it's very likely that there is a problem with the that caused the meltdown, along with the original meltdown. Overhauling the carbs is expensive. My nephew bought a 150 in similar condition for $500.

    I would not go with an SBT engine on a 'Ski that I wanted to keep. Likewise, I would go with plated cylinders, not sleeved. I like OEM pistons, gaskets, etc.

    The key thing on the 1200 engine is that it's running close to the edge. Everything has to be right. You need to run the Triple Pisser mod so you can monitor cooling water flow to each cylinder. The lube system has to be right, with good hose properly secured, and each hose has to go to the correct place. The carbs have to be right. This engine will not tolerate running lean. If it ever starts running funny, STOP! Tow it back if you can, or idle back and figure out what's wrong before you do anymore damage.

    Good luck with it. If you decide to attempt an overhaul, we're here to help.

    these are the conditions of the plugs Iíve squirted a lubricant into the spark plugs to see if it leaks down enough to loosen it up

    yes Iím going to rebuild this one Iíve read that they are very temperamental engines but I am gonna give it a go
    pulling it apart this week
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
    sdlvx's Avatar
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    I disagree about getting them re-nikasiled. I bore and put in my own sleeves. The last nikasil I removed, it wasn't even bonded to the skirt, it just made a loud ping and a quarter inch of the bottom skirt nikasil came off. I highly doubt that when this happens and you ship it off to have it replated, that the replating people will tell you about those types of issues.

    I've always gone with sleeves, but the last one I did the nikasil was really bad. I've had to bore out sleeves a lot, but I've never had a sleeve start flaking off into the combustion chamber, or start breaking off on the skirt. I am L.A. Sleeve all day. I don't trust nikasil anymore. It's better when it works, but it's more likely to fail. I know it's not a very popular opinion, but I don't know how many people bore their own cylinders around here.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by sdlvx View Post
    I disagree about getting them re-nikasiled. I bore and put in my own sleeves. The last nikasil I removed, it wasn't even bonded to the skirt, it just made a loud ping and a quarter inch of the bottom skirt nikasil came off. I highly doubt that when this happens and you ship it off to have it replated, that the replating people will tell you about those types of issues.

    I've always gone with sleeves, but the last one I did the nikasil was really bad. I've had to bore out sleeves a lot, but I've never had a sleeve start flaking off into the combustion chamber, or start breaking off on the skirt. I am L.A. Sleeve all day. I don't trust nikasil anymore. It's better when it works, but it's more likely to fail. I know it's not a very popular opinion, but I don't know how many people bore their own cylinders around here.
    so I looked at the plugs called nkg plugs are no longer needed they gave me the replacement number
    they were iridium I’m thinking the wrong plugs burned too hot and I blew a piston
    I’m pulling the head off tomm with a buddy to verify
    im now thinking it’s a piston if you look one of the plugs was brown here is to hoping

  9. #19
    steve45's Avatar
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    No, the plugs didn't cause your problem. The plug with the white insulator was running too lean. You need to look into the carbs and look for air leaks.

    The iridium plugs were used on hull number 41803 and below, which had more advanced timing. Look at your hull number and use the iridium plugs if applicable. It won't hurt to run them in later 'Skis.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    No, the plugs didn't cause your problem. The plug with the white insulator was running too lean. You need to look into the carbs and look for air leaks.

    The iridium plugs were used on hull number 41803 and below, which had more advanced timing. Look at your hull number and use the iridium plugs if applicable. It won't hurt to run them in later 'Skis.
    Well pulled the head off today good cross hatching in the cylinders all looked good pulled the carbs off to start digging deeper and found the problem

    cylinder two literally blew up pushed a rod into the reeds and a massive hole in the block
    i havenít pulled the shaft yet but Iíd assume number two piston the rod obviously and the shaft Iím sure are completely toast

    i am now on the hunt for an engine as this one isnít repairable

    sooo anyone have an upper lower crankcase intact with as an engine or just the crank case itself for sale
    any leads you can help with is awesome too
    I ll give it a week or so and if nothing comes out I ll start parting out

    on a side note of engines without glassing one new mounts what engine other then a 1200 would bolt in to what I have

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