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  1. #1

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    Jump Start or Charge Battery on SLT

    Just wanted to post this. It may help others who have challenges jump starting or hooking a battery charger up to an older Polaris watercraft. It could work on many different skis but it Definitely works good on the Polaris skis that have the electrical box connected to the top of the battery.

    I used a 3 port Polaris Lug multi tap and tapped into the main power wire coming from the battery headed to the electricL box. I used a 24” length of 6 AWG red battery cable. I connected one end of the red cable to the bolt that holds the rear grab bar in place.

    Any time I need to hook up the battery cables or jump start the ski I can just clip to the grab bar bolt and charge/jump the battery. The whole thing costs about $20 works pretty good and is completely waterproof/spark proof.



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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    I install this on every PWC I own.




    Easy to connect my charger using the polarized Quick Connect plug, not heavy enough do a jump start.
    But 20-30 minutes of fast charging at 8 amps will probably be enough get it started.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3065081

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post3013328

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...=1#post2916509

  3. #3

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    That will work great too. Especially for charging the battery.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Is the Polaris Multi-Tap connector rated for being used in a wet environment?



    Took me a minute to realize this was a different Polaris brand than the watercraft

    Quote Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
    ...

    I used a 3 port Polaris Lug multi tap and tapped into the main power wire coming from the battery headed to the electricL box. I used a 24” length of 6 AWG red battery cable. ...

    ... The whole thing costs about $20 works pretty good and is completely waterproof/spark proof.


    I presume you applied dielectric grease to the cable ends before insertion into the connector.

    It does give me pause that the primary positive battery cable was cut and spliced through the Multi-tap connector. That introduces a potential point of failure in a critical circuit.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by POLARIS Pre-Insulated Connectors Multi-Cable Blocks Either Side Wire Entry, IPLD Series
    UL Listed 486B Wire Connector (Dry location).
    http://www.nsiindustries.com/UserFil..._polaris17.pdf

  6. #6

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    These connectors come pre packed with dielectric grease and I added a little more. The cables are locked down with allen screws much like any other electrical box. That multi tap has been on there for over 20 years. It looks as good today as it did in about 1996 when I put it on.

    This ski was a leaker. It was not properly bonded between the hull and top cap. It took me a few years to figure out why the stock bilge pumps could not keep up with water in the hull. I installed a bilge pump the summer of 1995 and made the kids run the bilge pump any time they rode the ski. The bilge pump would routinely get left on and run down the battery. The kids got pretty good at jump starting the old girl so they could get their daily ride in. I've sealed the seams a few times over the years. I need to seal them up again.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
    ... That multi tap has been on there for over 20 years. It looks as good today as it did in about 1996 when I put it on.

    ...
    Well, your time tested results are positive!

  8. #8
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    you do this on a domestic and youill be replacing cdi or stator

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by savageman69 View Post
    you do this on a domestic and youill be replacing cdi or stator
    Really? Why would that be? I'm not doubting you but just curious why the stator and CDI would fail if you installed a multi tap.


  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
    Really? Why would that be? I'm not doubting you but just curious why the stator and CDI would fail if you installed a multi tap.
    The concern is that the red engine CDI seems to be sensitive to voltage spikes. Over the years there have been many cases of ‘I boosted it and now the CDI seems to be dead’.

    In your case having the main battery still installed may help stabilize the voltage swings, but a weak battery is not going to be a strong partner in the boosting voltage is jumping up and down.

    Second worst case is jumper cable boosting a red carb engine Polaris with no battery at all installed. Or a totally weakened battery that really isn’t doing anything to help.

    Also, when the engine starts the watercraft electrical system is suddenly trying to charge TWO batteries, the boosting battery and the installed battery. I suspect that sometimes right after starting the red engine gets revved up and the charging system overloads itself.

    Worst case is connecting the booster battery with reversed polarity. Instant risk of damage.

    Basically the less battery boosting that happens the lower the risk of hurting the electronics.

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