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  1. #11
    so lets go throw head torque 15ft 30ft (120) degree and (90) degree after right if you only torqued it to 90 ft pounds this is your issue . one other thing to check is coolant strength if its set for 50 below its too strong and will over heat. some times its the little things.


  2. #12
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    I torqued the head with new bolts and an angle gauge. Then after a heat cycle I just set my torque wrench and checked for at least 90ft # to see if anything got loose. Pressure check is good and not loosing any coolant. I'm going to try draining it, then refilling slowly and hope maybe there is an air pocket somewhere.

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  4. #13
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    Completely drained coolant today, it was a bit strong so I thinned it til it was good to about -10*. Refilled while letting any air out of the ride plate...…..kept filling slowly. Ran on the hose for a bit until it warmed up. Let it heat soak for about 5 minutes, then ran it a few more on the hose, everything looked good.

    Lake test, bring up timer, start engine, immediately start timer. Exactly 2 minutes and ten seconds of nothing over 5000 rpm and alarm goes off......WTF!! J pipe and waterbox just almost up to 90*. Exhaust manifold at a whopping 130*. Head right at the back next to the sensor 220* YEP, overheated in 2 minutes!!!

    Now I'm thinking this brand new 160 T-stat is a pile of $hit! I'll pull it off and test it tomorrow...…...DAMNIT!!!!

  5. #14

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    Just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s good.

    I hope that is the problem and you get it fixed tomorrow.

  6. #15
    well that sucks ass . I'm wondering if you leave it on trailer and test it , I'm thinking your problem is when boost is coming on i think its pushing at head gasket below 5000 not to much stress on it id strap it to trailer and test kind of hard to look for issues while riding or maybe a crack in head that shows up under boost or high load just a thought. or like you said shitty t stat.

  7. #16
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    Pulled tstat out and tested today. Felt sort of stuck when I first pushed on it. Tested on the stove in a pot of water carefully watching my true rms Amprobe meter with thermocouple. Didn't even start opening until 175 and fully at 205. Verdict......SBT tstats are a pile of crap but still should have been passing plenty of coolant.

    Installed new 160 tstat from early 90's Ford Ranger/ Bronco2 2.9l. It's the exact stat as the oem in 160*.
    Tested new one....started opening at about 158 and full open at about 173. Put it back together for a test on the hose. Let it warm up idling for a few minutes to about 135*. Shut it off to allow heat soak for a few minutes. Fired back up and pointed IR thermometer right at the head just below temp sensor. While idling on the hose, passing 55* water over the ride plate, temp just kept climbing. About 3 minutes I shut it off at 197*.

    New plan.....pull water pump to see if the impeller is spinning on the shaft. Seems like we've got a circulation issue.....

  8. #17
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    Just tore the water pump off. I can blow easily through every hose. BUT........when I pulled it this strange part fell out. What is this thing? Possibly was hindering flow? Impeller blade looks fine.
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  9. #18
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    Well, looks like this was probably part of the original thermostat which I don't have to look at anymore. Apparently everything will fit together just fine with extra parts just floating around in the housing, lol! Probably causing a major restriction.

    Stay tuned........

  10. #19
    good find i hate when that happens hope she is fixed.

  11. #20
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    OK......on the hose, much slower to warm this time. While up at around 175* at the head, I was getting 168* water to the ride plate and 146* water return. Several revs and I could watch 186* at the head and immediately dropping. Seemed to hover 180-185* while idling. Some steady 3000rpm I could watch the head temp steadily drop. Looks promising, lake test tonight after we close up shop.


    Stay tuned.......

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