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Thread: 2000 GP1200R Rebuild
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01-17-2021, 11:55 PM #61
- Join Date
- Aug 2017
- Posts
- 92
- +1
- 8
as far as I know this piece should not be there. And if you are planning to make a free exhaust, I would not advise you.
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01-18-2021, 11:36 PM #62
- Join Date
- Dec 2020
- Posts
- 11
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01-19-2021, 12:36 AM #63
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01-19-2021, 12:43 AM #64
Yes I am planning to do the Oside recipe 125 mains, 110 pilots, 1.5 Needle and Seat, 95 gram spring. I was planning to disable the Accelerator Pump, Drilled Return Pressure Balancing Mod with a jet in the return on the #1 carb. I have not done the carbs yet but they are on the list to happen in the next month or two.
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01-19-2021, 12:44 AM #65
I need to see a pic of where that ? Styrofoam piece fits then, it has to fit somewhere.
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01-20-2021, 11:19 AM #66
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01-21-2021, 03:32 PM #67
that piece goes on the right side (battery box installed) btween the hull and box
we usually discard those 2 pieces of foam
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01-21-2021, 09:33 PM #68
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01-27-2021, 06:36 PM #69
What's the best cooling setup for a stage 2 modified GPR with the holeshot kit installed?
As I will be using Riva heads I have 3 outlets on the heads along with the stock single pipe with 2 inlets from the heads.
1) I have seen some people use a tee to connect the 1st and 2nd cylinder, and feed the pipe like they do in a stock configuration from this 1&2 tee and the 3rd cylinder.
2) I have seen some have 1st and 2nd cylinder feed the stock single pipe and run the rear cylinder to a separate pisser overboard.
3) I have seen others only run the 1st cylinder to the pipe, cap the 2nd pipe inlet and then run 2 separate pissers for the 2nd and 3rd cylinder.
What's the preferred setup or what advantage does the one give over the other?
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01-28-2021, 04:16 PM #70
just run #1 into the pipe and block the other on the back of the pipe, then 2 and 3 overboard.
running the pipe hotter helps with scavenging
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