Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1

    Help Needed - MSX150 Oil Overfill

    First time poster here. My buddy (who isn't very internet savvy) has an '04 MSX that he has owned since new but has only ~ 50 hrs on it. He uses it very little and it stays in the barn most of the time. The other day he went to decided to check the oil and apparently overfilled it by about a quart. He put the ski in the water and it ran for about 20-30 seconds before it went into limp mode with the MIL light on and there was oil puked everywhere in the engine compartment. He had it in the water the week before and it was running fine, so the oil overfill should be the only thing that caused the limp mode.

    I've downloaded the service manual and read the various threads on the recovery/cleaning process, so we are going to see what we can do clean things up and get it running again. He's ordered a couple MAP sensors, but figured we will try and clean the old ones first.

    From what I read, the basic process is to remove the various intake tubes and clean them, remove the throttle body and clean it, and then clean the inside of the intake as best you can. Then remove and clean or replace the two MAP sensors. Next, remove (or partially remove) the intercooler and clean it. Then put everything back together and keep your fingers crossed

    1. Does anyone know of a Polaris dealer in the Tampa FL area who still works on these and/or has the cables/SW to diagnose any trouble codes? Or anyone relatively local who has experience on these skis?
    2. Is carb cleaner the best choice to try and clean everything up? Seems like there were a lot of different solvents suggested (carb cleaner, hydrogen peroxide, purple power, IPA, etc.). I would think some would work better than others for oil residue.
    3. Does the ski need to be in the water to verify functionality, or can we leave it on the trailer with a water hose into the water intake to fool it until we can get it to run w/o a MIL light? Obviously we need to make sure there is sufficient water flow. Just trying to avoid having to pull it in/out of the lake if we can do some initial testing w/o putting it in the lake.
    4. The intercooler looks like the biggest pain of the process. Is it worth trying to just clean up the intake tubes and TB and see it it runs before trying to clean the IC?
    5. Any other things to check/clean/do to get this thing running right again?

    We've both got some mechanical abilities, but are not mechanics and obviously haven't done this before so any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, John

  2. #2
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,103
    +1
    255
    Welcome to Greenhulk!

    @Ye Ol Salty Dog is the MSX whisperer and is in the Tampa region. I've turned on the MSX beacon to summon him here

  3. #3
    Ye Ol Salty Dog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Lutz, FL
    Posts
    162
    +1
    24
    Ye ol Salty Dog is currently gettin salty in Cortez, FL, but shoot me a message and letís get together next week. Iíll fix it for you

  4. #4
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    714
    +1
    58
    1) Start by removing all charge hoses from turbo to intercooler, then intercooler to intake hardpipe, and last from intake hardpipe to throttle body. This will require a 7 mm 6 point socket to do.
    2) Next up clip the two map sensor electrical connectors. This is achieved with graceful fingers.
    3) un couple the two red fuel lines from the fuel rail. Do this by squeezing the two connectors where they make the 90 degree down turn to the fuel rail. Make sure to have a rag ready for both as they will shoot a oz of fuel out. Do not force anything here as it is all made of plastic and can break if too much force in the wrong direction is applied.
    4) grab a 5 mm Allen wrench and loosen the two cap style Allen screws holding the fuel rail on. Do not worry about the small 1/4” black hose going to the fuel regulator. Pull the fuel rail off at a 45 degree angle. Just leave the hose on and let the fuel rail dangle from it.
    5) use the 5mm Allen wrench to take out the 4 cap screws on the throttle body. It will also have a quick disconnect for electric. Take that apart as well. Pull the throttle body off and set it aside.
    6) use 5mm Allen wrench to loosen the single bolt on each of the two MAP SENSORS. Then disconnect the electric connector and set aside.
    you now have the ability to see the whole charge air system.

    cleaning:
    get a shop vac, purple power(degreaser), a bag of clean rags. And a small container for liquid. A old Gatorade bottle will suffice.

    mix purple power and water at a ratio of 1/1 and fill the intercooler completely up. Let sit for while hand cleaning the hardpipe, and throttle body by hand. This should take a half hour or so. I personally would replace the map sensors. They cross with a 2003 Chevy SS cobalt at many parts houses.

    cleaning the actual intake is the PITA. Do it by mixing another round of purple power and filling with your Gatorade bottle. Be careful not to overfill here. You just need enough to break up the oil on the bottom of the intake plenum. Let that sit .
    break out your shop vac and set it up for wet vacuum mode. After it is set up. Suck all the cleaning solution out of the intercooler and intake plenum. Repeat until clean. After clean rinse with water and vac out water.

    while you have a chance, let all of the other loose hoses and hardpipe soak in a solution of degreaser. You will have to remove one 1/4” hose from intake hardpipe to separate it from system.

    hope this helps

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Ye Ol Salty Dog View Post
    Ye ol Salty Dog is currently gettin salty in Cortez, FL, but shoot me a message and let’s get together next week. I’ll fix it for you
    Thanks! PM sent w/ contact info.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Greenwood View Post
    1) Start by removing all charge hoses from turbo to intercooler, then intercooler to intake hardpipe, and last from intake hardpipe to throttle body. This will require a 7 mm 6 point socket to do.
    2) Next up clip the two map sensor electrical connectors. This is achieved with graceful fingers.
    3) un couple the two red fuel lines from the fuel rail. Do this by squeezing the two connectors where they make the 90 degree down turn to the fuel rail. Make sure to have a rag ready for both as they will shoot a oz of fuel out. Do not force anything here as it is all made of plastic and can break if too much force in the wrong direction is applied.
    4) grab a 5 mm Allen wrench and loosen the two cap style Allen screws holding the fuel rail on. Do not worry about the small 1/4” black hose going to the fuel regulator. Pull the fuel rail off at a 45 degree angle. Just leave the hose on and let the fuel rail dangle from it.
    5) use the 5mm Allen wrench to take out the 4 cap screws on the throttle body. It will also have a quick disconnect for electric. Take that apart as well. Pull the throttle body off and set it aside.
    6) use 5mm Allen wrench to loosen the single bolt on each of the two MAP SENSORS. Then disconnect the electric connector and set aside.
    you now have the ability to see the whole charge air system.

    cleaning:
    get a shop vac, purple power(degreaser), a bag of clean rags. And a small container for liquid. A old Gatorade bottle will suffice.

    mix purple power and water at a ratio of 1/1 and fill the intercooler completely up. Let sit for while hand cleaning the hardpipe, and throttle body by hand. This should take a half hour or so. I personally would replace the map sensors. They cross with a 2003 Chevy SS cobalt at many parts houses.

    cleaning the actual intake is the PITA. Do it by mixing another round of purple power and filling with your Gatorade bottle. Be careful not to overfill here. You just need enough to break up the oil on the bottom of the intake plenum. Let that sit .
    break out your shop vac and set it up for wet vacuum mode. After it is set up. Suck all the cleaning solution out of the intercooler and intake plenum. Repeat until clean. After clean rinse with water and vac out water.

    while you have a chance, let all of the other loose hoses and hardpipe soak in a solution of degreaser. You will have to remove one 1/4” hose from intake hardpipe to separate it from system.

    hope this helps
    Thanks! We managed to disassemble the air intake piping and cleaned that out along with the two MAP sensors that we sprayed down with throttle body cleaner. The actual throttle body seemed fairly clean, but we didn't pull it out to check the intake. Using a bore scope there some evidence of oil in the IC, but decided to just re-assemble things and see what happened since removing the IC seemed like a fair amount of work. We put the ski in the water and there wasn't a code and it ran for a few minutes at around 3K rpm. Once he upped the rpm's to around 6K, it went back into limp mode with the MIL on, so we pulled it back out of the water and took it to the barn. Cleaned the top sensor again and cranked it up for about 15 seconds to verify the MIL was off. So looks like intercooler cleaning is in order - hoping Ye Ol Salty Dog can help us out with this next week.

  6. #6
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    714
    +1
    58
    You can do the intercooler cleaning in the hole if youíll just follow the recipe I laid out for you trust me I know what Iím talking about I currently have eight of these things sitting on my property

  7. #7
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    714
    +1
    58
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	66.8 KB 
ID:	465238  

  8. #8
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    714
    +1
    58
    Imagine this in your cooler being inside your hull this is exactly what you would do. If you look further back in the Msx section youíll find a very thorough description of when I started doing this procedure it saves you from having to pull the inner cooler out of the machine

  9. #9
    Thanks for the extra details - it makes sense and we'll give it a try!


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. First ride of the year skipping and oil overfill
    By race24x in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-14-2017, 10:26 AM
  2. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 07-03-2012, 08:14 AM
  3. How big of a deal is it to overfill the oil on the Yamaha 4-strokes?
    By Jarrett in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-22-2012, 12:13 PM
  4. Can you overfill the oil reservoir on a 2002 Virage carburerated ski?
    By dalepatter in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-14-2011, 12:29 AM
  5. Oil Overfill from Dealership!
    By Trigger in forum Honda How To & FAQs
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 04-16-2009, 04:40 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •