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  1. #1

    2002 virage wont go past 4500 rpm

    Hi my name is Travis and I am new to these machines I wanted to start out by explaining what one of them is doing. When i put the ski in the water and start it it will fire right up and it will get up on plain and almost hits 6000 rpms then it falls on its face and it wont go past 4500 then about 5 min of run time it will start to run like crap and i have to cut the power and reset the breaker and it fires up but wont run past 4500. Here is what I have already done. I bought these ski's used and they sat for 2 years with full tanks of gas. So I drained bothand filled with fresh fuel. I bought a pair of them. One ski is running flawless as the other not so much. I removed the fuel pump assembly and cleaned out the tank and the screen in the fuel pump as well as the filters i back washer them with clean fuel till there was no more residue, reinstalled every thing towed it out to the lake and tried it again and it does the same thing runs like crap. So i purchased a fuel pump upgrade kit from ebay the pump is a quantum, I then installed that and same results. So i did the fuel pressure test with the pump by grounding the brown wire and having a gauge installed on the feed line and it is about 25 psi with no pinch on the return but when i pinch the return it goes past 60 psi i also was thinking it was the emm but i spoke to Darren at lake side tech and thinks its a fuel pump issue. Any how I'm stumped and frustrated any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys.


  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
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    It sure sounds like the pump intake screen (about the size of a dime), on the bottom of the pump itself, is plugged. See the thread in the stickies that discusses contaminated fuel.

    60 psi is high for a pump stall. The OEM pumps stall at 30 psi. It has been our understanding the Quantum pumps have been a suitable replacement. None the less, I'd check the current draw. It should not exceed 4.0 amps.

    When you pull the pump canister, pump out all the gasoline from the tank you can. Then follow with paper towels to mop up what is left. Let it dry out completely. Once dry, wipe out the inside of the tank with a tack rag, commonly utilized for paint finish work. If you're going to re-utilize the fuel, strain it through a funnel with a paper paint filter funnel liner. They're sold with automotive paint refinishing products. Harbor Freight stocks them at a good price.

    It takes very little to plug up the pump intake screen.

  3. #3
    Thank you I think your on to some thing as far as the amp draw I am going to run its own power line and fuse so it has the full amperage it needs. the screen is clear and the tank is completely clean and fuel is from cheveron. Also one thing to add is out of the water it revs to the moon but in the water then the problem occurs.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trav2282 View Post
    Thank you I think your on to some thing as far as the amp draw ...

    ... I am going to run its own power line and fuse so it has the full amperage it needs.....
    The problem is not with the 12 volt supply side. Factory wiring is sufficient and the Ficht fuel pump circuit already has its own fuse.

    Unless there is corrosion or wire/connector damage, the +12 volt supply to the fuel pump should not cause any problems.

    The limitation is on the ground side of the fuel pump circuit. The EMM provides the ground connection and switches ground on and off using a chip internal to the EMM. In this way the EMM controls the fuel pump.

    The EMM cannot withstand a fuel pump amp load much larger than the factory fuel pump.
    4.0 amps is awfully close to the absolute maximum amp flow the EMM can tolerate.

    Many aftermarket fuel pumps draw far too much current and will overload the EMM circuit.

    There is only one aftermarket fuel pump which has an amp load close (enough) to the OEM fuel pump.
    A genuine Polaris Ficht fuel pump has the lowest amp draw.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The problem is not with the 12 volt supply side. Factory wiring is sufficient and the Ficht fuel pump circuit already has its own fuse.

    Unless there is corrosion or wire/connector damage, the +12 volt supply to the fuel pump should not cause any problems.

    The limitation is on the ground side of the fuel pump circuit. The EMM provides the ground connection and switches ground on and off using a chip internal to the EMM. In this way the EMM controls the fuel pump.

    The EMM cannot withstand a fuel pump amp load much larger than the
    4.0 amps is awfully close to the absolute maximum amp flow the EMM can tolerate.

    Many aftermarket fuel pumps draw far too much current and will overload the EMM circuit.

    There is only one aftermarket fuel pump which has an amp load close (enough) to the OEM fuel pump.
    A genuine Polaris Ficht fuel pump has the lowest amp draw.


    So what If I installed a relay and use the ground wire from the EMM to activate the relay with the thicker wire to with stand the higher amperage

  6. #6
    martincom's Avatar
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    Well, I had mentor who had a phrase for that: "Treat the problem, not the symptoms." The other issue you'll run into is the capacity of the 12 volt charging circuit. It is rated for 10 amps. As an example, let's assume you're fuel pump is drawing 6.0 amps. Next there is the bilge pump, approximately 2.0 amps, and the MFD 0.5 amps. That's leave 1.5 amps to charge the battery. PWCs are typically frequent start/stop operation. The 1.5 amp charging current will likely result in a dead battery in a day of frequent start/stops. Also, the battery will seldom ever be fully charged, the plates will sulfate, and you'll have premature battery failure.

    Before we beat this horse to death, measure the fuel pump current draw---you may not have a problem.

  7. #7
    I purchased the carter p74656m pump assembly I have heard of people using this I still have my original pump and it still fires but it had so much shit in the filter I figured that I would just replace it what a pain in the ass this has been also I could not find the factory one unless it was used. Is this a good option.

  8. #8

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    The Carter is only good for the fuel filter and 30 micron strainer and some times the gas level.... the pump absolutely draws to much current.

    EDIT:
    Link to Fuel Filter and 30 Micron Strainer Replacements!
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=288609
    Last edited by bfarnam; 08-04-2020 at 09:18 AM. Reason: Added Link to Cross References

  9. #9
    martincom's Avatar
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    You can test your fuel canister assembly out of the watercraft. Utilize a loop of 1/4 fuel line (can be automotive grade for this) from the output barb to the return barb. Tee a fuel pressure gauge into the loop. Place the canister in a clean 5 gallon bucket partially filled with mineral spirits, probably a gallon. Apply 12 vdc to the appropriate pins of the canister connector. The pump should run and you should measure approximately 25 psi of pressure. You can let it run for an hour, if you want to check the pump for run time failures. You can also measure the pump current draw with this test set up. It is far easier than removing and installing the canister from the Virage.

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