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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by djlburton View Post
    Another option would be running Tee on your oil lines for the primer. Keep the Tees close to the carbs. Add check valves to keep the oil and premixed gas flowing the right direction. That will allow you to keep it close to stock.
    Thanks, creative option. This could be a great interim option I get me through the rest of the season. Would like to look into that balanced option noted earlier but I will need to research it more.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by LivingSlow View Post
    I cured mine with new needles and seats (oem) and new fuel selector switch. No primer needed. Main culprit were the seats leaking.
    I replaced the o ring on the needle seat but not the needle itself. It looked ok but the leaking makes sense. Will look into this and a new fuel switch.

  3. #13

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    2nd what "Myself" (poster #3) recommended (euro settings are on page 26 of F&Q carb thread)...the only change is I keep accel pumps...Always starts up's , even at the beginning of the season.

  4. #14
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Check / inspect your fuel vent valve too. Your fuel system should keep pressure in it at all times except when removing the gas cap to fuel up (you should hear it hiss when opening, if it doesn't you have an air leak somewhere).
    The balanced mod is easy as pie to do and keeps the check valves inside the carb in good condition. Probably won't help your starting issue but is almost a no-brainer to do if you have the carbs out for any reason at all. Literally takes five min to do and is a pm type of mod.

    To use your accel pump as a primer:
    Pump the throttle 1/4 several times rapidly before hitting the starter. This actuates the accel pump and if it's working properly will squirt fuel into cyl 1&3. It does work.

  5. #15

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    I think, the fuel pump balancing mod does help starting, because the first pump that primes supplies all three fuel bowls...But I have no proof. As far as euro changes, the 92.5 pilot by themself is a great addition..But do check the acceleration nozzles, one/both almost always are plugged up.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffg426690 View Post
    Check / inspect your fuel vent valve too. Your fuel system should keep pressure in it at all times except when removing the gas cap to fuel up (you should hear it hiss when opening, if it doesn't you have an air leak somewhere).
    The balanced mod is easy as pie to do and keeps the check valves inside the carb in good condition. Probably won't help your starting issue but is almost a no-brainer to do if you have the carbs out for any reason at all. Literally takes five min to do and is a pm type of mod.

    To use your accel pump as a primer:
    Pump the throttle 1/4 several times rapidly before hitting the starter. This actuates the accel pump and if it's working properly will squirt fuel into cyl 1&3. It does work.
    Interesting... Definitely do not hear a hiss when I open the gas cap. I'll look into that where the air leak may be coming from. No idea where the fuel vent valve is but it can't be that hard to find. Thanks!

    Love this forum, you guys rock.


  7. #17

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    Just fired up the 1200, carbs have been off two weeks (#1 had sticky throttle shaft with no spring on 2nd carb)..bone dry, started in 20? Seconds with choke only...has pump balancing mod, 92.5ps and of course had one clogged acceleration nozzle...All now cleaned, been 5 years? Since last cleaning...Now starts instantly...but it also started good with one accell nozzle plugged, just did not want to return to idle this year with just two return springs

  8. #18
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhatHaveIDone View Post
    Interesting... Definitely do not hear a hiss when I open the gas cap. I'll look into that where the air leak may be coming from. No idea where the fuel vent valve is but it can't be that hard to find. Thanks!

    Love this forum, you guys rock.
    Fuel vent is directly on top of fuel pickup tube assy on the fuel tank, it's small. Take it off, should be able to blow through it one way and not the other. Direction of air flow is into the tank, not out (allows air into the tank as fuel is consumed). Not saying that's def your prob, just one of the 'could be' things. Could also be leaky seats in the carbs.
    The accel pump as a primer does work though, it's a mechanical pump controlled by the throttle

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffg426690 View Post
    Fuel vent is directly on top of fuel pickup tube assy on the fuel tank, it's small. Take it off, should be able to blow through it one way and not the other. Direction of air flow is into the tank, not out (allows air into the tank as fuel is consumed). Not saying that's def your prob, just one of the 'could be' things. Could also be leaky seats in the carbs.
    The accel pump as a primer does work though, it's a mechanical pump controlled by the throttle
    Ha! - Good call! I pulled the check valve out and tested it... it failed, air flows both ways. There's the leak! Well, at least one of them. New valve on order... Thanks for the tip!

  10. #20

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    Open vent valve, both ways..will NOT cause a problem. Fuel tank is Not pressurized for fuel transfer..Ain't a F-15, F-16, F-whatever commercial jet...it is a lawn mower, motorcycle,atv or vehicle type..(yes they use air pressue on a aircraft....if transfer/fuel pumps are not working or external tanks).That is Not how fuel is transfered in a normal vehicle ..Now if it allows the creation of a vacumm, then that will slow transfer..the only thing a open check valve does is allow vapor to escape, EPA will be mad..does your Car/truck run with gas cap off???..yes or No?..why because it has a pump within the tank or external Not under vacumm...aka jetskies
    Note some lawnmowers, motorcycle's, ect are gravity feed and will run out of fuel quickly if tank creates s a vacumm

    Example tank has 2 psi.. fuel is taken out, shoved thru carbs by fuel pump, then has to over come 2psi to get back into the fuel tank on return line...Thus 2psi positive pressure is not a helping factor, nor hurting flow..Does keep fuel vapor out of the atmosphere...Same as your check Engine light when gas cap is off.
    Last edited by Crazypirate; 08-06-2020 at 06:30 PM.

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