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  1. #1
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    Yamaha 2004 XLT1200 MR1 Conversion

    I've always liked the XLT hulls and really miss my XLT1200s. They are stable and fun to ride. However, I don't miss the 66v motor and several dozen 66v rebuilds I've done over the years. I have for a long time thought to put an MR1 in the XLT hull.

    After some hunting on FB and CL, a 2004 popped up. I was quick to get a super clean, titled, freshwater 2004 XLT hull w/o a motor for a very reasonable price. I already had a MR1 that I rebuilt a few months ago and has spent time in my beater/test 2009 VX in prep for a conversion.

    My advice to folks doing any conversion is to start with freshwater boats. There are enough challenges with older donor VXs/FXs that you don't need the added aggravation of saltwater. And for the conversion ski, you don't want to wrestle with busted ride plate and pump shoe bolts.

    I'm also using a pre-2010 VX donor which mounts the ECU on the side of the exhaust and is a little easier than the 2010+ which mounts the box on the bulkhead in a waterproof box. A 2010 should be fine, but not sure the bolts will line up to the XLT ebox--you will need to try.

    Yeah, I could just get an FX140, but this is more fun.

    Here goes. First a power wash on the XLT hull.
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    Last edited by boudin; 07-28-2020 at 09:49 PM.


  2. #2
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    Test fitting the MR1 with a mock-up motor. The 66v has the same motor mount locations as the 66v, so no work there. Motor also clears the humps in the inner hull.

    Measuring the driveshaft, this requires the 2010+ VX 24 3/4" driveshaft with an FX 2" pump extension.
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  3. #3
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    The 2010+ VX 24 3/4" driveshaft and mid-shaft and a 2" FX spacer.

    Hey folks, if you part FXs and sell on eBay, sell the 2" spacers along with the longer bolts that are unique to FX. They are tough to track down.
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    Last edited by boudin; 07-28-2020 at 09:52 PM.

  4. #4
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    Sealing the pump shoe with silicon for anti-cavitation good luck.
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  5. #5
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    FX fuel tank pushed all the way to the rear. You can use the XLT hose cut into sections with 2" stainless, and an extra piece of fuel hose in between.

    You will want to use an FX tank as it fits in the hull, and has the bolts/backer plate welded into the tank. It also has the 'bumps' in the bottom of the tank to keep the fuel sender from moving around.

    Notice a couple of pieces of foam in front of the take to help hold it in place.

    One issue is that the forward storage bucket is now about 1" too deep. I will resolve that by taking a section out and then glueing it back together, probably with 5200 and a some sheet metal or plastic.
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  6. #6
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    I did not get a photo of me shoe-horning the motor in, but here are some tips:

    - remove the handle bars and complete engine cover (make sure to get all the bolts to not damage when you remove)
    - remove the harness, electronics, and intake
    - remove the oil filter (a good time to do a complete oil change)
    - remove the forward hoist hook on the motor

    You'll want to hang the motor almost vertical by the rear hook on the oil cooler, then lower it in while tucking it in.

    Put the front hoist hook back on, then a chain between the rear hook and the hoist hook to level out the motor and drop it into place. Do the normal shimming procedure at this point. Mine did not require shims.
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  7. #7
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    For the exhaust, I have to shout out to my buddy Kevin who tipped me off to using an XLT/GPR800 exhaust which already has 2 1/2" nipples. The water box to resonator hose from an 800 also fits perfect. A much better solution than having the water boxes welded, like I have done with all my other conversions.

    The connection between the exhaust and the water box is like I've always done with my conversions... two 45 degree silicon hoses with a 2 1/2" aluminum pipe in between. Allows you to twist it just right to get them to line up.

    You can also see the water intake Y adapter which requires some hose 1/2" and 5/8" adapters you can get an any auto parts store.
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  8. #8
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    Fuse box mounts to the side, near where the VX harness would expect (and can reach). TPS is not shown, but mounts on the port side.
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  9. #9
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    Used a dremel to fit in the gauge. Also painted the area black to blend in better once the "engine cover" goes back on.
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  10. #10
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    Button it all back up, and there you have it.

    I am just waiting on a trim cable and cable extensions... should be here tomorrow and I can water test this week.

    Parts lists:

    VX Donor
    • Complete motor, wiring harness, all electronics
    • 2010+ VX110 24 3/4” drive shaft and mid-wall bearing housing
    • Any year VX pump, impeller, wear ring (You’ll be using the stock SUV nozzle, reverse bucket, ride plate, intake grate/pump shoe)
    • VX throttle

    Bolt-On New Parts

    • FX fuel tank (source off eBay or Greenhulk)
    • XLT800 or GP800R water box and water box to resonator hose
    • FX 2" pump spacer and bolts
    • 2" steering/trim/reverse cable extensions from WFO
    • K&N RU-3190 Universal Rubber Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    • K&N KN-204 Motorcycle/Powersports High Performance Oil Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    • (2) Upgr8 Universal 4-Ply High Performance 45 Degree Elbow Coupler Silicone Hose (2.5"(63MM), Blue): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    • Stainless Steel 304L Welded Round Tubing, 2" OD, 1.87" ID, 0.065" Wall, 12" Length: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    • Upgr8 Universal Outside Diameter Polished Aluminum Pipe (2.5"(63MM), 360 Degree): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    • Hose Barbs: There are 3 barbs total needed that you can source from your local auto parts store. Best to take the hoses there and fit them.
    • 3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure (White, 10 fl.oz) or Silicone for sealing the pump shoe
    • 5 qts of your favorite 10w-40/20w-40 motor oil (great time to do a complete oil change--13 mm bolt under the oil pump all the oil will come out. It is the only 13mm back there.)
    • (4) NGK-CR9EB spark plugs
    • Various bolts/washers/nuts. I have a big bucket of these left over from other projects, so you’ll need to sort that out. Just be sure to use stainless
    • Good idea to get your injectors cleaned/spray tested. I use https://www.injectorrx.com

    Custom Parts

    • None
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    Last edited by boudin; 07-28-2020 at 09:42 PM.

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