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  1. #1

    Does anyone have a puller for a stx 12f pump.. I'm stuck

    I need to remove a very corroded pump from an stx that sat with salt water on it. Does anyone rent them for this model on here? Any guidance for this newbie would be appreciated. Slide hammer failed to do the job. It won't even budge.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Have you removed the two screws from the ride plate?

  3. #3
    Yes, the ride plate came off early on. I also tried to take the intake grate off but its so corroded it's like it's welded on.

  4. #4
    cato3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Virginia Beach
    You likely have one or both of the following happening:
    1. The impeller is rusted hard core to the drive shaft. (I'm sure this is going on)
    2. The wear ring in the vane guide has swollen due to corrosion between the SST wear ring and cast aluminium vane guide, causing the impeller to be stuck within the vane guide (tight clearance tolerances). This may be and additional problem.

    Can you get or is the vane guide off? Another words the only thing left is the impeller on the drive shaft (see image)? If this is the case, get yourself a M16 x 1.50 - 80mm from McMaster-Carr along with 3/8" steel balls. Sprayed a bunch of CRC Freeze-Off on the shaft through the impeller. Put one steel ball in threaded the M16 bolt (greased up threads real good) in and hit the bolt with an impact wrench. Essentially, you are using the impeller threads to pull the impeller off the shaft by pushing on the end of the drive shaft or pushing the drive shaft out of the impeller with the steel ball and threads as the active force.

    If the vane guide is not off, you can do the same thing by removing the pump cap.

    You can also use the pump shaft instead of the M16 bolt but I would not recommend it because you can damage the threads on the pump shaft and then have to buy a new one. The bolt is cheap and McMaster-Carr delivery to me was almost the next day. You can also get a tap to make sure the impeller threads are good and clean from McMaster-Carr. I just happen to have one in my toolbox so I chased the impeller threads prior to doing this.

    I had two 2005 STX-12Fs that had the jet pump stuck. One I was successful with this method, the other I had to cut the drive shaft (this means pulling motor to replace the shaft). I put the one I had to cut the shaft in a 20 ton press once removed and could not get the drive shaft off the impeller.

    Hope this helps!! Good luck!!!

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  5. #5
    Hi Cato, thanks a ton for the response. When i turn the entire housing the impeller turns a bit so I am leaning away from the wear ring being swollen.. But after taking a ton of time getting the intake grate off (sawzall along the shims and some heat, plus diamond carbide oscillating saw) I was able to get behind and heat and spray the impeller from behind. Then I went at it with a piece of hardwood and a mallet. It made no difference at all. I am hoping not to have to cut the shaft. Currently the vane guide is still attached, I use the bolts to attach the slide hammer which I alternate after heating and hitting the back of the impeller. I am trying not to do any harm to the impeller so I am not using any metal when banging on it. I will try and remove the vane guide, I wasn't aware I could get it off that way. I thought you had to remove the whole assembly and then use the impeller removal tool to get the pump apart. What are these steel balls? I can't seem to find them using searching.

  6. #6
    cato3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Virginia Beach
    Don't forget the drive shaft is not attached to anything that prevents is from sliding fore and aft on the ski. The only thing is the drive shaft holder (and seals & bearing installed within the holder) just aft of the motor coupling and the physical design of the drive shaft. Some people have suggested that you take off the coupling and slide the shaft out the back of the ski but this will not work because the the drive shaft design (larger diameter threaded area where it attaches to the coupling).

    I highly suggest taking the vane guide off. Remove the pump cap then remove the pump shaft. This should allow the vane guide to slide off the impeller, leaving you with only the impeller stuck on the drive shaft like in the first picture I posted above.

    The McMaster-Carr part number of the steel balls I used was 9291K54 and the M16 bolt was 91052A125.

    Be sure to grease up the threads on the bolt and use CRC Freeze-Off like I said above. I really feel this will work for you because you have movement of the impeller within your vane guide. Oh and don't forget the drive shaft has flats on it by the coupling so you can hold that while hitting the M16 bolt with an impact.

    I was able to reuse the vane guide (after replacing the wear ring), impeller, and pump cap. The threads were damaged on the pump shaft so replaced it along with bearings and seals but those are expected IMO.

    Grumpy_Steven, on Greenhulk, was the one that let me in on this trick!! He deserves all the credit here!!!

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