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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Jackson, TN
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    20
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    Yes. Basically every union from the transom/hull to the nozzle needs a film of sealant. Yamaha calls for a specific OEM type, although myself an other have great luck with crankcase sealant like "MotoSeal". Basically you want something strong/durable lasting, yet will not hinder future disassembly. I try to pull my pump annually. Aside from what's sealed according to the service manual, there is also an aftermarket performance enhancement "seal kit" (can find here in the greenhulk store) that goes up in the pump shoe area which can help improve hole-shot & top-end - if done correctly - as Yamaha's are notorious for ventilating from gaps in the shoe/ride plate area.
    What trim position do make people take their GPS WOT readings in?

  2. #12
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    1,115
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    239
    Neutral position. It's pure physics. Any "added" deflection induce by the steering nozzle(left/right up/down) will proportionally take-away total trust output from the jet nozzle.
    That said, logic behind (up) trim angle is to get the bow up, i.e. less in-contact with water, less drag. Since adding trim is counter-productive - enter the "pump wedge". The wedge adds slight permanent up angle to the pump nozzle exit trajectory, bow raised, and the steering nozzle stays neutral and therefore 100% trust is retained.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Jackson, TN
    Posts
    20
    Update to this:

    I finally got to the river again yesterday. The temp was in Mid 90's with dew point in the 60's and humidity around 60 as well (aka hot and pretty stuffy). I had about half a tank to start and the river was fairly calm, not glassy smooth but not much chop. I had the chance to make several WOT runs and got the ski to 60 according to the speedo which has the Candoo GPS feeding it. It seemed to hit 57-58 easily then crept up to 59/60. It was running around 7500rpm I think. I don't believe it ever got to 7600 but was consistently around 7500. I haven't had a chance to pull the nozzle and actual check the wear ring but just from looking with a flashlight the vane and the impeller looked but at some point I do want to pull it and do a thorough inspection and check the gap.

    With the fairly high humidity does this seem reasonable? I do plan on changing the spark plugs out when I change the oil in the fall just for the heck of it. I have read the ribbon delete actually helps. Is the RIVA air instake kit worth the cost? I don't want to spend alot of more on it since I just dropped $10.3k including taxes (and 60 is rolling on the water for someone who is used to going 45max in a boat).


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